The 10 Restaurants That Defined New York Dining in 2022 

By some kind of magic, Place des Fêtes, the self-described neighborhood wine bar from the same team behind Oxalis, hits the mark in terms of offering nearly everything you’d want when dining out today: that soft glow, an interesting wine list, standout dishes that won’t weigh you down (the sardine toast and those wood-ear mushrooms with caramelized fish sauce to name a few), and easygoing vibes. In a year where Euro-focused wine bars and seafood spots were a huge draw throughout the city, this one stood out.

It’s a tall order to try to match the reverence that people have for a landmark like the Chelsea Hotel’s El Quijote, open for nearly 100 years, but chefs Jaime Young and Byron Hogan have deftly done just that — and improved on the original in the process. Yes, the new El Quijote is smaller in size and not nearly as kitschy as it once was, but the spirit of what made it beloved lives on — and the food is better than ever. It’s an exemplary case where the new and the nostalgic can coexist together seamlessly. (Side note: The new Lobby Bar, also from the same team, is worth checking out for its emulation of the famous Dukes martini.)

Technically, Shukette opened in 2021 but it’s still one of the most electric dining experiences you can have in the city, especially if you manage to nab a seat at the long counter that runs the length of the restaurant and wraps around the open kitchen. From that perch you get to watch Beard-nominated chef Ayesha Nurdjaja masterfully expedite every order that comes in, and you see all the work that goes into each dish, from the garlic-studded Moroccan frena bread to the impressive whole porgy fish, grilled to order. Mediterranean cuisine has likely never been more popular in the city than it is today, and Shukette knows how to have the most fun with it, for sure.

Dept. of Culture subverts what you thought you knew about tasting menu restaurants, and it does so beautifully, with an exceptional four-course menu that recreates, reveres, and reinterprets the comfort foods chef-owner Ayo Balogun grew up with in Nigeria. Sitting at its large communal table with other diners, and being able to experience Balogun’s food is one special thing — the experience is further amplified by the fact that Balogun opens each course with a heartfelt story about its origins and its importance. Simply put, every visit here is more than just a meal.

Visit www.deptofculturebk.com to make a reservation. 

When Masalawala first opened on the Lower East Side back in 2011, it had an admirable 10-year run but also served a menu that quite frankly played it safe, with Indian standards like chicken tikka masala and saag paneer. When Roni Mazumdar and his father, Satyen, had an opportunity to revive it in a new space in Brooklyn this year, they decided to embark on a much bolder restaurant that’s more or less the story of Satyen’s life — as told through the homestyle dishes he’s loved throughout the years: There’s a claypot dish made with lightly poached hilsa fish roe, and a whole fire-roasted bone marrow dusted with shaved eggs and served with the fluffiest of pao bread.

As we’ve come to expect from Mazumdar and his Unapologetic Foods chef-partner Chintan Pandya, everything at the new Masalawala & Sons is as thrilling as their other hits: Dhamaka, Semma, Adda, and Rowdy Rooster. It’s further proof of their unapologetic stance to push the boundaries of Indian food on these shores.

Ali Saboor, together with Nasim Alikhani, highlighted soulful Persian cuisine at Sofreh and now, at his own project, Eyval, he’s continuing to pioneer contemporary Iranian food in New York. At Eyval, the focus is on street foods, especially kebabs, but there’s a distinct elegance to how Saboor grills his kebabs, as he does with everything else on the menu here (do not sleep on any of the yogurt dips). Like Roni Mazumdar, or Dept of Culture’s Balogun, he’s incorporating his own personal experiences and pushing the cuisine forward, all while honoring tradition.

TikTok may have given rise to the frantic Notify setting many New Yorkers endured in hopes of snagging a seat at this East Village wine bar from two Momofuku Ko vets. But in this instance, the hype is warranted. Yes, there’s that very decadent six-layer devil’s food chocolate cake that you saw on everyone’s feeds, along with the red shrimp sizzling in its own pool of olive oil at the table, but really, it’s the entire experience at Claud that makes it so memorable.

This may be a restaurant for the TikTok era, but its roots are classic all the way: It’s the thoughtful, French-leaning wine list; the deft hand with which the kitchen puts out dishes like the tiny parcels of chicken liver agnolotti and butterflied trout; and somehow, the spartan basement dining room that’s always buzzing. It’s a symbol of New York’s ever-evolving love affair with French (or French-ish) restaurants, also embodied in restaurants like Le Rock, Francie, Le Dive, and many others.

The beauty of Wenwen, the second spot from 886 chef Eric Sze and co-owner Andy Chuang, is that it can be whatever you want it to be: Some love to think of it as a raucous party akin to how 886 can be (the Shyboy 4XL cocktail certainly adds to that), while others think of it as 886’s refined older sister, the one who loves to host dinner parties.

The truth is it’s really both at the same time. And it’s redefining notions of Taiwanese food in the city. Our favorites? The numbing celtuce salad, shrimp floss lettuce cup, the 886 noodle, and to drink, the Jungle Negroni or Bird’s Eye Daiquiri. Unfortunately, we haven’t managed to try the BDSM fried chicken, either, but there’s always next year, right?

With Oiji Mi, chef-owner Brian Kim demonstrated he’s still on the leading edge of contemporary Korean cuisine here in New York. He’s quick to point out what it’s not (fusion) — and what it is: its very own creation. Think pumpkin soup with burgundy truffle, pine nuts, and sourdough, or a feast of a bo ssam (pork belly), served alongside oysters on the half shell with a spicy mustard mignonette. Whatever you think Oiji Mi might be, it’s both delicious and surprising: a rare feat in a New York city dining scene where many things are delicious, but also often derivative. Simply put, this five-course prix fixe is one not to be missed.

This year in New York, we saw many new omakase restaurants open, and a few Japanese French-leaning spots, too. House Brooklyn manages to meld both trends seamlessly — in a way that strips away any pretention and focuses on what’s essential. It’s a tasting menu spot that, as the name suggests, really does make you feel at home, like you’re a guest in chef Yuji Tani’s kitchen. There’s a warmth and thoughtfulness in how every course is crafted. Case in point:  the architecturally minded strawberry burrata, made with shards of strawberry meringue and light-as-air burrata or the foie gras pilaf, both rich yet balanced, dotted with housemade pickles that nod to Tani’s hometown of Kyoto. Still, there’s always the sense that you’re never quite sure what to expect — it’s something to look forward to with each visit.

This year also saw an incredible number of incredible bakeries open in the city, like Librae, L’Appartment 4F, and Lady Wong, to name a few, but for us, Eunji Lee’s Lyseé is a cut above. Lee creates masterpieces in her beautiful museum-like space of a bakery, where the pastries glisten like precious jewels. Her desserts are light and airy, with just enough sweetness, playfully incorporating Korean flavors like brown rice and maemil buckwheat with incredible skill. Pro tip: If you go, do get the ‘gram-worthy corn dessert and signature lyseé dessert, but don’t sleep on the black sesame cookies, either.