Ten Restaurants Not to Miss in the Twin Cities This Year

Steakhouses have seen a resurgence, following in the wake of ’80s nostalgia that’s taken over other spheres, like fashion (hello again, fanny packs and mom jeans). But while Porzana is, indeed, a steakhouse and offers items that harken back to that age of indulgence (see: two domestic wagyu offerings priced in the triple digits), chef Daniel del Prado has brought a modern sensibility and elements of his South American heritage to the concept.

That means you’ll also find more affordable steaks — a flat iron, sirloin, and hanger — alongside splurge-worthy picks. It also means Argentinian cuts such as picanha, asado de tira, tapa de vacio, and entraña. Beyond beef, there’s plenty else to get excited about, including sea bass, lamb chops, pastas, a cold bar, and a variety of snacks to start you off. (Do yourself a favor and order the bread basket, if just to experience the tasty housemade flavored butters.) The space itself has an accessible industrial-chic feel: lived-in wood floors, brick walls, a ceiling studded with pipes and ductwork. Come warmer weather, the patio is sure be a hot commodity. It all adds up to a restaurant that captures what we’re craving right now.

We’re pretty confident in saying that no Minnesota restaurant has made such a national — even international — splash in the past half decade as this one from chef-owner Sean Sherman, aka the Sioux Chef, aka the latest recipient of the Julia Child Award, aka the winner of the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant 2022.

It isn’t just having a moment: It’s leading the charge in changing the way people look at, talk about, and enjoy Native food. One of its aims is to showcase the Indigenous culture of North America, and it does so by purchasing from Indigenous suppliers and crafting menus that show off the abundance of pre-colonial ingredients. This winter, that has meant items like wild rice, sweet potato, pumpkin, elk, bison, and duck. The wine and beer list focuses on producers of color from the U.S. and Mexico, but stretches to make room for a Maori pinot noir and sauvignon blanc from New Zealand.

The crew at GusGus really knows their way around a cocktail. Whether you order the Brown Butter Bourbon, Olive Oil Martini, or simply a classic gin gimlet, you can be sure you’ll receive a pitch- (and picture-) perfect drink. The same holds true for the nonalcoholic versions. There’s even a booze-free iteration of their signature Jell-O shot!

While the beverages may have brought you in, the food definitely shouldn’t be an afterthought. Why not chase away any chill by indulging in a bowl of poutine — fried gnocchi topped with cheese curds and a sauce of shredded braised oxtail — that arrives at the table ooey gooey and blazing hot? Or the burger, two patties sandwiched with cheese that drips down the side and caramelized onions, served on a puffy bun? The service is top-notch to boot, making you feel like a regular — even if it’s your first time. For the always warm welcome alone, GusGus deserves a spot in your rotation, and a nod as an icon of the hospitality Minneapolis does so well.

Call 651-645-4128 for more info.

Yes, there are a lot of pizza joints to try in the Twin Cities, and a lot of really good ones at that. But there’s no place quite like Ann Kim’s Young Joni — even sister restaurant Pizzeria Lola, which started it all. In this uber-hip corner of Northeast, the James Beard Award winner has created a vibe that captures that coolness but is still casual and welcoming to all: friends out for a night on the town, first daters, young families, couples celebrating decades together.

The pies run upscale, featuring distinctive ingredient combos such as beef short ribs, arugula, and a soy-chile vinaigrette; kale and preserved lemon; fermented pickles, smoked onions, ranch dressing, potato chips, and fresh dill; or pepperoni, jalapeños, and honey. One thing they all have in common: a thin, blistered-edge crust, baked to perfection in the copper wood-fired oven that’s the centerpiece of the room. Finish with a dish of their signature soft-serve ice cream drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt before creating a historical record of the night in the photo booth or sipping on a nightcap in the slightly hidden bar.

It seems an improbable restaurant genesis tale: A Mongolian-born chef, Billy Tserenbat, lands in Minnesota and decides to woo the locals with high-quality sushi sourced from Japan — and served out of a food truck. Somehow, it not only worked, but business thrived and led to one brick-and-mortar place (since sold) and now another, the hopping Billy Sushi. It’s a selection of see-and-be-seeners, business people, and regulars who just like a well-cut piece of fish.

Tserenbat’s sense of whimsy runs rampant through the menu, with unique creations and eye-catching names: Beverly Hills Drama, NoLo YoLo, Kodiak Killer. This same sense of fun pervades his newest launch, the tree-lined, “star”-lit, speakeasy-style bar Billy After Dark (B.A.D.) in the restaurant’s basement. There, you’re encouraged to select your drink based on a menu that only lists names (the staff can serve as lifelines) — although if you’re looking for something for your socials, ask for the cocktail served in the glass bird. Neon signs proclaiming, “Bad decisions make better stories” and “Get your halo dirty” capture the very distinctive vibe.

Call 612-886-1783 for more info.

Some things never go out of style. Case in point: this top-rated Italian dining destination from Isaac Becker and Nancy St. Pierre. Since opening in 2009, Bar La Grassa has been a hot reservation, filled with an upbeat buzz almost every night of the week. (Just try getting a primetime weekend reservation less than a month ahead.)

This is the place for homemade pasta, and there are so many winners to choose from: the renowned spaghetti carbonara, the fan-favorite gnocchi with cauliflower and orange, the umami-rich mushroom and taleggio agnolotti, the giant pillow that’s the ‘njuja-and-egg-stuffed raviolo. Almost as long — and definitely as tempting — is the list of unique bruschette. While the soft eggs and lobster rendition may get a lot of the press, if you travel down the road (slightly) less taken, you’ll be rewarded with standout pairings like pork shoulder and carrot purée or a version dressed up with chicken liver mousse, pickled shallots, and mint. BLG may be an oldie but it still has star power in abundance.

It’s not like Minnesotans need any confirmation that chef Ann Ahmed has a winner on her hands with her latest restaurant, anchored in Loring Park. The food gets frequent enviable reviews, the drinks are fun and fetching, and the atmosphere is laid-back. So it wasn’t necessary (but it didn’t hurt) when The New York Times included Gai Noi this fall on its annual list of 50 restaurants around the country.

The kudos came for Ahmed’s leaning into her native Lao cuisine, something that’s evident in the name she chose (“khao gai noi” is a short-grain rice that’s a staple in Laos) as well as dishes like the papaya salads; the chicken, beef, or tofu laab (salad); the Panang spaghetti; or the gai basil, a rice bowl that pairs the herb with ground chicken, chiles, garlic, and a fried egg. Bonus: Ahmed offers three very happy hours during the week, from 2-5 p.m.

Find more info here.

Meritage near Rice Park is happy to give you a taste of the true French experience of fresh coastal shellfish, thanks to a full-service bar dedicated to oysters and other seafood. Order one of the plateaux de fruits de mer, a cornucopia of goodies from the sea, such as West Coast or East Coast oysters, shrimp, clams, lobster, mussels, and more.

If land is more your speed, feast your eyes on the rest of the menu, which is filled with classics like French onion soup, seared foie gras, cassoulet, duck breast, and steak frites. Or opt for the five-course tasting menu: four savory plates finished off with a sweet bite. The recently revamped wine list, curated by co-owner Desta Maree Klein, boasts more than 400 pours, with a significant focus on French picks. When we want fancy — and sometimes we do — Meritage remains a place to fulfill all our wishes.

The Four Seasons and Gavin Kaysen are one of those meant-to-be pairings. On one hand, you have the city’s only five-star hotel, a place that’s become a luxe staycation destination. On the other, you have a guy who made a name in NYC, then came back to his hometown, where his star soared even higher as he opened hits like Spoon and Stable, Bellecour, and Demi.

Now there’s the Mediterranean-leaning Mara. In the short time it’s been open (a smidge over a year and a half), it’s become an integral part of the fabric of Minneapolis dining. The fare brings the flavors of the Mediterranean to life at breakfast, brunch on Sunday, lunch, and dinner. If you’ve never been one to rave over dips, the housemade hummus and baba ghanoush, the latter laced with a pine nut tapenade, should give you a reason to start. Lamb dishes, whether the tartare, dumplings, or chops, get frequent accolades, as do the chermoula-spiced grilled chicken and the salt-baked branzino. For dessert, look to the Maralisa, an olive oil cake with citrus and gelato, for a photogenic finale.

Find more info here.

The flavors of southern Europe are on the stage at this small storefront on St. Clair Avenue. Co-owner and chef Jason Hansen backpacked through the area while making his way up in the culinary world and was smitten by what he ate — and he brings that spark of excitement to the dishes at Estelle. Italy, Spain, and Portugal are represented, whether that’s in the selection of tapas — items like the tortilla Española or the salt cod and potato fritters — or bigger plates including a roast piri piri chicken and a handful of pastas.

Fortunately, Estelle isn’t a one-dimensional wonder, relying on food to do the heavy lifting. This gal is a triple threat, also surpassing expectations with its cocktails (lots of European influence here, too) and hospitality (warm and convivial). You can experience those drinks, plus a special selection of tiny bites, in the slim bar near the entryway, a good place to kick off the night. That choose-your-own-adventure approach is exactly what we want these days.