Our Wine Hit List for the final strech of 2023 finds New York deeply embracing the wine bar — in a way it hasn’t in years. (Like, years.) There are a number of reasons for this, not the least of which is that New York is in a good wine spot right now: lots of great wines coming into the market, lots of really good places to drink it. But also, having gotten past an initial rush of hedonism, maybe more of us are into finding somewhere to chill and enjoy a few glasses and small plates? All while great chefs are increasingly into this format (see Foxface Natural, Gem Wine). And a relaxing glass of wine is a pleasant antidote, perhaps, to the sweep of maximalism this year.
It will come as no surprise to those of you drinking out on the mean streets that lists in the city keep leaning more French, and more naturalish. It’s not unique to New York, but is for sure the zeitgeist of the year. (Although the new German cohort of winemakers, especially, seems to be finding an audience.)
In any case, now is a time of year for comfy (and cozy) places with great bottles on hand — to catch up with friends amid the holiday buzz, to flex for cuffing season, or to entertain a rush of out-of-town visitors. Your Wine Hit List for winter 2023 is here with some suggestions for where to enjoy.