Chefs Nok Suntaranon and Jesse Ito on Making Food Your Own

Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon: Jesse, you’ve been one of the chefs who I have really wanted to collaborate with for years, but we never got a chance to for so many reasons. And then one day, when we traveled to New York for a Resy event collaboration at Atomix, it inspired us to finally decide to do one together in our own city and make it as fun as possible.

Jesse Ito: I know! We’ve wanted to do this for so long! You have been one of my best friends, and I love and respect your cooking. I’m excited to combine the best of our menus and give something really unique to the guests.

Suntaranon: I was always your not-so-secret admirer early in the pandemic, and when we finally started talking, we became much closer very quickly, and now we are very close.

Ito: I remember seeing you at Royal Izakaya prior to opening Kalaya. I always wondered who that extremely well-dressed woman with the Pomeranian was! I’m glad we are such close friends now.

I’m really looking forward to getting creative with this dinner. It’s always fun to step outside your comfort zone and collaborate with another chef — especially someone I love and admire professionally and personally.

Ito: One thing I love is how Kalaya celebrates Southern Thai cooking — the food you grew up eating. What makes Southern Thai cooking distinct from other regional cuisines?

Suntaranon: Southern Thai cuisine is known for its distinct spices and straight-forward flavors that really distinguish its dishes from other regions in, not just other regions of Thailand, but all of Southeast Asia. Not only do we offer Thai food in Southern Thailand, but Indian, Malaysian, Chinese, Islamic, and other cuisines are all predominantly featured in Southern Thailand.

Much like how I’ve embraced Thai heritage at Kalaya, you’ve chosen to delve deep into your roots with Royal Sushi & Izakaya. What drives your passion for showcasing Japanese cuisine, especially in an omakase format?

Ito: I grew up spending a lot of time at my parents’ restaurant, Fuji, in New Jersey. My dad is a very skilled Japanese chef, and the majority of my training comes from him — he gave me a strong foundation when it comes to sushi and omakase. He taught me how important precision and rhythm are, especially when it comes to preparing fish. So, in a way, it feels like I am continuing a family tradition.

But I also try to push my menu forward and strike a balance between honoring the tradition of the craft and making it modern. We play rock and hip hop at the restaurant. You can hear the buzz of the izakaya. I want my guests to laugh and chat with me and with each other, to have fun. I don’t want the service to feel stuffy or intimidating.

Suntaranon: What would you say are your biggest sources of inspiration that inform the Royal Sushi & Izakaya experience?

Ito: Right now, I’m really focused on evolving the omakase menu. Earlier this year I started introducing plated dishes that incorporated global influences and celebrated my Korean heritage. My dad is Japanese, and my mom is Korean, and for a long time, I was nervous about bringing Korean flavors and techniques into the experience. I kept the menu more traditional, more Japanese. But as I’ve grown as a chef, I’ve been able to find my voice. I am not a typical omakase chef, and I like that. It’s important to me to honor all sides of my identity.

Ito: Both of our cuisines are deeply rooted in tradition but have evolved with modern influences. How do you balance traditional Thai cooking with contemporary culinary techniques?

Suntaranon: I cook authentic Thai food, but I use French training and techniques in my cooking. If you look deep into the history of Thai cooking, along with my personal history in cooking, you’ll see specific techniques used, such as the roasting of Thai spices. But I like to combine techniques. When I was in school, I was given more perspective on how to combine techniques — combining how I grew up with my family cooking Thai food with how I personally want to cook Thai food, as both I and the cuisine continue to evolve.

Ito: What do you think people misunderstand about Thai food?

Suntaranon: People automatically assume that Thai food is too spicy, when in fact, it’s very approachable to most people. Additionally, when many people think of Thai food, they think of pad Thai, but that is not something we eat very often in Thailand. We have many other dishes that we would consider to be bigger staples in our cuisine.

What’s something you think everyone should know about sushi?

Ito: When people come into the omakase, I have a few rules. One is that you need to eat the piece of sushi within 30 seconds of when I put it down in front of you for temperature. I’ll also tell you to eat it in one bite. Sushi chefs compose every bite with such intention; the best way to enjoy it is right away and in one go.

Ito: What’s one dish that you believe best represents your cooking philosophy?

Suntaranon: The goat and lamb curry at Kalaya. It represents the tradition of Southern Thai food, especially in my hometown, and it was my father’s favorite dish. The heat is just so unique. It’s super bold, super spicy, and such a hit in the restaurant.

I’ve wondered: What advice would you give to young chefs who aspire to open their own culturally rooted restaurants? What wisdom can you share about embracing and promoting one’s heritage through food?

Ito: Don’t listen to other people’s definitions of your heritage. Your identity is unique to you. Part of the beauty of food is that you can create whatever you want, and express your identity in a way that feels authentic to you. I’ve definitely found freedom in celebrating my Japanese and Korean roots alongside each other.

Suntaranon: Your omakase service is renowned for its intimacy and precision. What philosophy do you bring to this dining experience, and how do you ensure each course reflects the essence of Royal Sushi & Izakaya?

Ito: Intimacy and precision are definitely important. Many guests have waited a long time to dine with us. They’re coming to celebrate a special occasion, and it might be their first omakase experience. So it’s important to me to make sure it feels personal for everyone. I am absolutely a perfectionist, so maintaining precision is key. But more importantly, I want the whole experience to feel relaxed. It can be intimidating to walk into an eight-seat sushi counter for the first time. Part of my job — and my philosophy — is to put guests at ease and make sure they really enjoy themselves.

What’s the most significant lesson you’ve learned in the kitchen that has shaped you as a chef and restaurant owner?

Suntaranon: I would have to say it’s to treat your restaurant team how you would treat your family. They are your work family, and you see them almost every day. Be respectful, be considerate, and be kind.

Suntaranon: What’s one milestone in your career that you’re particularly proud of, and what made it memorable?

Ito: When we reopened after the pandemic, we made some pretty significant changes. We reduced our operating hours from seven days a week to five days a week, stopped doing late-night service, and went from three nightly omakase seatings to two. Even though it was a few years ago now, I’m still so proud of this change. I realized that going full speed 24/7 wasn’t sustainable for me or for my team. Making these changes gave me space to prioritize all of our wellbeing, and it’s really paid off. Our leadership team is so strong, and we all have time for families, friends and hobbies outside of work. It’s so important.

Suntaranon: Every chef has a secret weapon in the kitchen. What’s yours, and how did you come to rely on it?

Ito: There are so many elements involved in omakase prep, from fish butchery to fish washing and cooking Japanese ingredients. It all requires a strict routine.

At Fuji, I started doing small jobs in high school, and eventually I worked my way up to the sushi counter. My dad was my teacher, and he taught me the importance of being exact and following a routine to ensure you’re putting out the best food possible. It’s ingrained in me, and it’s a process that I’ve relied on at my own restaurant.

Suntaranon: Can you share a favorite food or hospitality memory that still influences you today?

Ito: When I was training at Fuji, my dad taught me to hold an egg under my armpit while slicing vegetables. The idea was to train my arm movement to be like a piston that goes in a straight trajectory. Any wrong movement would mean the egg would fall to the ground or crack on me. I don’t hold an egg anymore, but that training definitely informed the way I move in the kitchen.

Suntaranon: Looking ahead to fall and winter, what changes can we expect to see on the menu at Royal Sushi & Izakaya? What are some of your favorite seasonal ingredients?

Ito: Fall is my favorite season. I’m working on the omakase menu right now. I love using mackerel, which comes into season beginning in September.

What’s an ingredient you’re obsessed with right now?

Suntaranon: I am obsessed with chiles. I love seeing so many different kinds of chilies. In the summer, I planted Tabasco peppers in my garden and now, I love putting them in new dishes and anything I make at home. They’re so good.

Ito: Your first cookbook is coming out this fall. What made you want to write it?

Suntaranon: I was never a good student and for me, the challenge of sitting down, gathering the recipes, and putting my mind on one big project is something very challenging for me. Early in pandemic, I was looking for something to do besides all of the takeout we were doing at Kalaya, and writing a cookbook came to mind. I knew it was time for myself to embark on a bigger project and focus on one thing, so I called [writer] Francis Lam and said, “Let’s write a cookbook.”

Ito: What would you say to someone who is nervous about cooking Thai food for the first time?

Suntaranon: I would tell them to just relax, take a deep breath, and realize that these dishes are much more approachable than they may think. Just go out, buy good ingredients, and follow the recipes, and you can create dishes at home as good as we do at the restaurant. I would also tell them to not be shy about adjusting seasonings and recipes to their liking. The cookbook should be more of an overall guide than an exact instruction manual that you have to follow exactly to a T for every last recipe.

Ito: We’re lucky to live in a city with such a strong food scene. How does Philly’s chef community support or inspire you? Do you ever think about opening in another market, or is this home?

Suntaranon: Philly’s chef community is very inspiring; it’s a small, tight-knit community with a majority of very kind people who treat each other the way you would treat family. They help me to maintain my higher standards, as being around such talented chefs will make you work your hardest. Philly is my home, and that’s where my business is.

Ito: It’s such a busy year for you, with running the restaurant and the cookbook coming out. How do you care for yourself outside of work?

Suntaranon: Every morning, I get coffee and have me time. I hang out with my dog, my neighbors, and my friends, and I go to the gym as often as I can. I also just love my omakase. Royal Sushi’s omakase is my self-care, a me-time dining experience where I can just sit for two hours and escape.

We both know that being a chef can be all-encompassing. What are some ways you create space to enjoy life outside of the restaurant walls?

Ito: We are opening a second restaurant next year, so it feels more important than ever to create this space. On my days off, I love to go to the gym or do yoga. Omakase service is like an intense dance, so I try to get a massage or pedicure on the regular. Even going to dinner at a friend’s restaurant (like Kalaya!) helps me relax and recharge.

I also consider you a friend and a mentor. Who have been your biggest mentors, and how have they influenced your approach to leadership in the kitchen?

Suntaranon: My biggest mentors are Mike Solomonov (Zahav), Marc Vetri (Vetri Cucina), and you. To see how hard you work and how humble you all are is something that influences how I want to act every single day. Each one of you sticks to how you want to make food, and you do not let others get in the way of your vision.

I am so excited to be in the kitchen cooking with you, looking out at a full room of friends, family, and new and returning guests to both Kalaya and Royal Sushi enjoying a truly unique experience. This dinner has been in the works in our minds for years, and now it’s finally coming to fruition. I’m going to savor every moment that I can.

Tickets ($125 per person, not including tax and gratuity) for A Royal Dinner at Kalaya go on sale at noon ET on Saturday, Sept. 14. Get your tickets here.