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In 2017, the food critic Pete Wells labeled the Upper West Side a “restaurant wasteland,” where few restaurants aspired “to be the place where you try to impress your friends, or yourself.” But over the past few years, the historic neighborhood has shed its longstanding reputation as a bagels-and-schmear-only destination (which the area does well, by the way), marked by the arrival of new, unique restaurants and timeless joints.
For an ideal day, start with a bacon, egg, and cheese on Texas toast at Maison Pickleor a South Indian spread at Saravanaa Bhavan, followed by a visit to Central Park or the American Museum of Natural History. Then, enjoy an electric Thai lunch at Sala Thai Restaurant or reliable Sichuan flavors at Atlas Kitchen. In the evening, sip frozen piña coladas at Tiki Chick, paired with one of the city’s best chicken sandwiches. Cap off the night with kebabs and cocktails at the aptly named Kebab Aur Sharab, or treat yourself to a celebratory meal at TATIANA, By Kwame Onwuachi, an experience as grand as the Metropolitan Opera House beside it.
Brimming with fantastic dining options, here’s everywhere you’ll want to eat on the Upper West Side.
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For date night …
TATIANA, By Kwame Onwuachi, located inside Lincoln Center’s David Geffen Hall, home to the New York Philharmonic, oozes romance even before you’re seated. Since opening in 2022, the Afro Caribbean restaurant remains one of the toughest reservations around. Tatiana’s short rib pastrami suya was arguably one of the most Instagrammed dishes of 2023, and its curried goat patties and bodega special (Tatiana’s take on a Cosmic Brownie served with a powdered sugar donut ice cream) continue to charm.
Leyla is a moody, dimly lit Mediterranean brasserie focusing on dishes from the Marmara region in Istanbul: think lahmacun, the minced meat and herb flatbread, grilled octopus over an artichoke confit, and erişte, a Turkish pasta-style dish sauced with labneh and spiced brown butter. Dine on the outdoor patio as temperatures rise — both in the air and in the romance department.
For bold Indian flavors …
For a meaty, hearty meal, make your way to Kebab Aur Sharab, which conveniently translates to “Kebab and Booze.” This eclectic spot serves kebabs that are hard to find anywhere else in the city, such as the dori kebab, a ground lamb so soft it requires no chewing and arrives wrapped in muslin to prevent it from falling off the skewer. You can find textbook butter chicken, slow-cooked lamb shank nalli nihari, a wagyu pathar kebab served on a hot stone, and a Malabar bone marrow pulau.
For a night out on the town …
Tiki Chick is the kind of spot you’d expect to stumble across in the East Village or Lower East Side. Think kitschy tropical vibes, shark and hula dancer-shaped glasses, and a younger crowd. The tiki bar also serves the best $5 fried chicken sandwich money can buy: the hot honey, served with housemade pickles.
If you’re in the mood for live music, Prohibition — just a few blocks from Tiki Chick — is the perfect spot for a group hang. Since 1996, this iconic venue, with its Josephine Baker-themed logo, has served New American classics like burgers, a spicy Caesar salad, and a double-cut bacon steak. Swing by on a Saturday morning for live jazz and delicious, unfussy bites.
For smaller groups, head to The Owl’s Tail, a husband-and-wife-owned cocktail bar designed to look like a living room with a large owl mural. Sip on seasonally inspired cocktails like the Cable Knit, a gin-based drink made with saffron liqueur, vermouth blanc, honey, and mole bitters, or the Barrel Aged Manhattan with orange-flavored liqueur, vermouth, and spiced cherry bitters.
For a cozy meal …
On Amsterdam Avenue, Bánh Vietnamese Shop House, from the same team behind the East Village’s Bánh Anh Em, proves that some of the most soulful meals are served on a crackly baguette. Many flock from all over town for the O.G. bánh mì, but the relaxed spot is also known for its bánh tiêu, a savory donut stuffed with sausage, sticky rice, quail egg, and chicken liver pâté; and the pho đặc biệt, a rich, a comforting beef pho. Pair everything with the egg cream iced coffee for a sweet, creamy kick. Since the space is snug, we suggest going during lunch or for a midday meal to avoid the rush.
Old John’s Luncheonette, the 70-year-old Upper West Side icon made a triumphant return in 2021. The menu features diner favorites like a patty melt, meatloaf, and a banana split. Old John’s offers a heartwarming slice of familiarity — proof that some comebacks are worth the wait.
For all your pizza and pasta needs …
Parla, from the team behind The Smith, is a modern Italian retreat with just 30 seats and a wine bar. The hot hunny pizza, topped with pepperoni, mozzarella, and Calabrian chili honey, is a standout, along with the happy clam, a tender clam pie. Don’t miss the pepperoni meatballs in vodka sauce or the crispiest catchy o’s cacio e pepe arancini. With its cozy, laid-back vibe, it’s the perfect spot for a casual yet satisfying meal.
Pisticci, a popular Morningside Heights red-sauce spot is a go-to place to satisfy any pappardelle bolognese cravings. With a menu that caters to vegetarians and, of course, features a rich, classic tiramisu, it’s no wonder locals flock here for a cozy trattoria vibe.
For when you’re after something with a punch …
Pig & Khao (UWS), an offshot of chef Leah Cohen’s Lower East Side Filipino restaurant, opened a second location on 81st and Amsterdam in December 2024. Along with arguably the most famous khao soi in the city, you can find sizzling sisig and green papaya salad along with large plates like claypot spare ribs. Come hungry, as the large plates are, in fact, large.
Sala Thai Restaurant nails traditional Thai flavors and spice levels. Whether the fiery green curry with eggplant and tofu or the pla lard prik, or whole-fried fish topped with a chile sauce, most menu items are unapologetically incendiary.
For catching up with the crew …
Most Columbia students would agree that Morningside Heights lacks standout dining options, but Atlas Kitchen, where the menu spans Hunan, Sichuan, and beyond, is a surprising sleeper hit. You’ll find spicy pig trotters, a delicate seafood custard, and sauteed crab with salted egg yolk, along with Atlas Kitchen’s famous hanging pork belly, a dish featured on nearly every table.
Han Dynasty, the Sichuan franchise with multiple locations needs no introduction. This sprawling branch, which appears to be modeled after a traditional banquet hall, is their largest, seating up to 180 people. Popular orders include mapo tofu, cumin lamb, and dry pepper chicken.
If you’re with picky eaters, Maison Pickle, the French dip and cocktail spot from the team behind Jacob’s Pickles and Tiki Chick, has something for everyone. The ambiance includes an upbeat, New Orleans-inspired vibe and tongue-in-cheek neon signs. For brunch, we recommend their d’olived eggs (their take on deviled eggs), the berries and cream challah French toast, or their bacon, egg, and cheese on Texas toast. Go for the ultra-savory Reuben French dip or bright moules marinières come dinnertime. Finish the gab session by sharing the signature 24 layer chocolate cake.
For a quick bite …
Saravanaa Bhavan might be a multinational conglomerate, but its homely, no-fuss classics, scalding filter coffee, and Hindu deity figurines on its shelves make it feel more like dining in a South Indian grandma’s kitchen. Expect quick service, crisp dosas (savory lentil crepes), idlis (steamed rice cakes), and large thalis (platters) with multiple vegetables and rice dishes. The menu doesn’t mention this, but you can ask for a top-up of sambar, the spicy-sour daal served with most dishes for a dollar.
Across the street, you can find stellar rice rolls for under $10 at Joe’s Steam Rice Roll, an outpost of the Chinatown cheung fun mainstay. Whether you go for the beef, curry fishball, or vegetarian, you can’t go wrong here. Just remember to ask for chile oil.
For sushi …
One Bite, the brainchild of Masa and Hirohisa alums, is an omakase newcomer tucked between a Blue Stone Lane and a dry cleaner’s on 80th street. The 12-seater spot offers an 8-course $49 lunch and a 13-course $89 dinner omakase that’s just as elaborate as those from big-name restaurant groups.
For a more low-key but still transportive experience, head to the Upper West Side location of Omakase Shihou, where the team partners directly with fish vendors in Japan to offer high-quality seafood at accessible prices. Expect the same moody ambiance as their other spots, alongside rare cuts, a $49 12-course lunch omakase, and a $65 dinner omakase.
For when a bagel is exactly what you need …
There’s a reason Barney Greengrass, the 117-year-old family-owned institution, calls itself “The Sturgeon King.” The quaint deli and food emporium offers bagels and plenty of smoked fish to go around: think sturgeon and sable sandwiches, eggs with house-cured gravlax, and Nova Scotia salmon platters. The restaurant is cash-only, so remember to bring some.
PopUp Bagels, the self-styled “not famous, but known” bagel firebrand has converted plenty of sandwich purists to their rip-and-dip style bagels since in 2020. The restaurant, which originated in Connecticut and launched its New York presence as a Greenwich Village pop-up, has since expanded to other parts of the city, including this location on Columbus Avenue, and counts Paul Rudd and Michael Phelps as investors. Part of its draw is that you’ll always get a hot bagel, and three types of whipped cream cheese to choose from.
R.I.P., Absolute Bagels.
