At Clemente Bar, a Great Cocktail Is More Than the Sum of Its Ingredients
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It’s unusual to hear the beverage director of a high-end cocktail bar say that flavor isn’t his first priority. Especially when that cocktail bar belongs to Daniel Humm, one of the most influential chefs of his generation.
For Javelle Taft of Clemente Bar, a memorable cocktail is more than the sum of its ingredients — it’s part of a greater experience that begins at the door.
“Taste is the last thing. It has to be visually appealing and feel like the weight of a cocktail in your hand. Conceptually, it’s the space you walk into. Does the host greet you? Do they walk you up into the lounge and pull out the chair? If all of the small, intricate details don’t happen prior to you ordering that drink and tasting it, then it’s all wasted effort.”
Born out of a collaboration between chef Humm and contemporary Italian artist Francesco Clemente, the namesake lounge located above Eleven Madison Park features a surreal ceiling fresco, three dramatic 17-foot-long murals, and smaller sketches throughout.
Every detail — the custom walnut panels, intricate millwork, and vintage furniture — complements Clemente’s art, and the cocktails are no exception.
Taft did not set out to build a career in hospitality. The 39-year-old beverage director spent a decade working as an accountant while bartending on the side to pay off student loans.
Since moving from Connecticut to New York City, he has made a name for himself at some of the industry’s most influential bars, including Death & Co, Nitecap, and Dutch Kills — ultimately leaving finance behind for good.
Now, at Clemente Bar, he is focused on building a beverage menu that helps to tell the broader, conceptual story of collaboration between chefs, designers, artists, and bartenders.
“For me, collaboration is a paramount,” says Taft. “I want to make sure my style of drink coincides with the bartenders, and that people are included and heard.”
One popular drink of choice is the Clemente Martini, which pays tribute to the artist’s Italian heritage and time living in India. Made with a green curry fat wash, malted gin, and Indian spice-infused olives, the cocktail is savory, layered, and quietly complex.
This month, Taft will travel to Chicago for the first time with Humm and the team in hopes of bringing home a James Beard Award.
“There are so many amazing bars that don’t get this opportunity for many different reasons. For me being new to the team, this would mean the world.”
Clemente Bar is open daily from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.
Sophie Brochu is a writer, musician, and a member of Resy’s creative and brand team. She and her husband are behind Brochu’s Family Tradition, named one of 2023’s Best New Restaurants by The New York Times and Bon Appétit. Follow her on Instagram. Follow Resy, too.
