Guests can stop in for, say, a glass of Chenin Blanc at the bar, but for the full experience, fill the table with crispy tête de cochon, Maine mussels in bouillabaisse, and brioche-stuffed chicken, the latter of which Conroy says is a can’t-miss dish — along with the Basque cheesecake.
The secret to that chicken? “It’s really sourcing a good bird, treating it correctly, and cooking it with care,” says Conroy. The dish is currently being served with English peas and jus gras, a rich sauce made from drippings and stock.
The Maison chicken. Photo by Deb Lindsey, courtesy of Maison The Maison chicken. Photo by Deb Lindsey, courtesy of Maison
Conroy and Popal first connected through a Craigslist ad in 2019. At the time, Conroy was in New York running Oxomoco, while Popal was searching for a chef to help expand his family’s restaurant business. Omar and his siblings, Fatima and Mustafa, founded The Popal Group alongside their parents, Zubair and Shamim, in 2003—roughly two decades after the family fled Afghanistan following the Soviet invasion.
“What began as a Craigslist post evolved into this beautifully harmonious partnership,” Popal describes. And Maison is an extension of that partnership — a restaurant where harmony shapes everything from the décor to the food to the experience itself.
“There’s a lot of intention behind everything we do here,” says Conroy. “From the way the check gets dropped to the restrooms to the wine glasses.”
No matter what type of experience a guest is having at Maison, they hope the level of detail and care is noticed.
“There’s a wonderful harmony when something is done with intention,” Popal adds.
Despite the high level of attention, Conroy says the vibe is not stuffy in any way. Maison is a place where guests can have fun, relax, and enjoy the atmosphere.
That style of hospitality is also a nod to Popal’s upbringing. “As Afghans, when my parents would have friends over, it would be, like, 30 people that would come over to the house for a dinner party.”
This year, Popal and Conroy will be walking the red carpet together at the James Beard Awards. Maison is nominated for Best New Restaurant, proving once more that it’s far more than just a wine bar.
Maison Bar à Vins is open from Wednesday to Sunday starting at 5 p.m.
Everywhere You’ll Want to Eat Around New York’s Madison Square Garden
Should you find yourself in Midtown near Penn Station, Madison Square Garden, or Herald Square and in search of a good meal (or drink), we’ve got you covered.
