Don’t call it a steakhouse, call it a steak restaurant.

This isn’t the sort of steak dinner that’s going to leave you feeling like you need a nap afterwards. The dishes here move away from the old-school tradition and instead cover the breadth of beef-based dishes that Angelenos crave, from steaming hot bone broth to Wagyu meatballs in pomodoro. “We don’t call ourselves a steakhouse because we’re not trying to be one,” co-founder Ryan Gianola says. 

Instead, you’ll find spiced tahini Caesar salads, Mediterranean potatoes with celery and olive oil, and beef croquettes with celeriac purée. In place of rich sauces, steaks at Matū Kai arrive simply and to the point: grilled over wood fire or on the plancha (depending on the cut), sliced and sauceless, so the sole focus is on the flavor of the beef itself.

One type of beef, cooked one way.

About that beef: every steak here is 100% grass-fed Wagyu from New Zealand’s First Light Farms. Both Matū Kai and First Light Farms are co-owned by Jerry Greenberg, making the restaurant’s sourcing a closed loop. Unlike some grass-fed beef, these steaks have a rich, buttery quality and silken texture. “We have complete traceability. We know exactly which farm each cut comes from, what the cattle ate, the climate they were raised in — every detail,” says co-founder Scott Linder.

Greenberg first came across First Light when searching for the most delicious Wagyu he could find for one of his other restaurants, HiHo Cheeseburger. Raised on 85 ranches scattered across New Zealand pastures, the farm uses a unique premium Tajima (Black) Wagyu hybrid that is never fed any grain, resulting in fine marbling throughout. It’s a product the team believes so strongly in that its cooking temperature is predetermined to maximize the flavor and texture. Each steak comes to the table a “warm red,” a cook the team describes as red in color and warm throughout. For those who prefer their steaks cooked more, take heed. Upon request, your steak can be cooked slightly more (unless otherwise noted in the menu) but when we say slightly, we truly mean slightly. For those who prefer their steaks medium to well-done, your server will likely suggest you opt for the braised beef cheek instead.

It’s not just for special occasions.

Given that Matū Kai comes from the same restaurant group behind Sugarfish, Uovo, and HiHo Cheeseburger — each known for balancing high-quality products with surprisingly affordable prices — it’s fitting that you get more for less here. In a city where a Wagyu steak can easily have a $100 entry point, it’s a welcome addition for those who crave a great steak on a regular basis. Most steaks are between $55-85, with sides coming in at $12-15. Every part of the animal is used, creating a more sustainable and lower-waste menu, evident in dishes like the braised beef cheeks, carpaccio, meatballs, ragu, and brochettes — all pieces of the cow that didn’t make it to your plate as a steak but found another delicious way to be used.  

Come for the steak, but don’t skip on the seafood.

While New Zealand is known for its Wagyu, it’s also known for its pristine waters, which are home to some of the best seafood in the world. Case in point: Matū Kai’s lobster tails. A plate of four comes to the table, grilled with little more than yuzu kosho and butter. The whole branzino, which comes with perfectly crispy skin, or grilled octopus given the Spanish treatment, with warm potatoes and olives, are not to be passed over either.

More than one reason to cozy up to the bar…

Like any good steak restaurant, the drinks program at Matū Kai has some seriously good offerings, from a house take on an old fashioned with burnt orange to a refreshing basil-infused gin sipper called The Baccus. However, there’s one more reason why you should consider a seat at the bar: the aforementioned cheesesteak. Only available on the bar menu, this is one luxurious sandwich, consisting of shaved Wagyu on a sesame-crusted roll with oozy cheese and grilled peppers that just might be among the best in Los Angeles.

(Pro tip: You can also get the cheesesteak at a table as part of the Lock, Stock, and Barrel dinner, a seven-course Wagyu tasting menu.)

Hillary Eaton is a food and travel journalist whose work has appeared in many national publications. When not writing about the hospitality industry, she’s working in it. Follow her on Instagram. While you’re at it, follow Resy, too.