
In Buckhead, Aria’s Defining Dish Is Also One of Its Simplest
In Atlanta’s Buckhead neighborhood, where dining trends ebb and flow like the tides of Tybee Island, the dimly lit and intimate Aria stands out as an exemplar of creativity, consistency, and exquisite, unpretentious hospitality. This institution has been a leader of fine dining in Atlanta for decades, defying the odds in a part of town that often favors the shiny and new.
And while many star plates (like the ruby red and golden beets, the roasted branzino, and the slow braised Berkshire pork) have graced Aria’s menu over the years, one quietly luxurious offering has earned its place as a signature of the restaurant. Celery, once a symbol of sophistication in Victorian-era dining, has reclaimed its moment in chef Gerry Klaskala’s creamless celery soup — a dish that feels deeply tied to Aria’s identity.
What makes it so incredible? For starters, it’s all about the celery root, a humble ingredient that Klaskala and his team transform into something extraordinary. Introduced to the restaurant’s menu early on, the soup is a seasonal treat, reappearing at the end of fall and staying through winter. Each spoonful is a celebration of the vegetable’s natural essence, coaxed into silky submission without the addition of cream. Instead, the soup relies on an exacting approach to achieve its velvety consistency, allowing the celery root to shine unadulterated.


The space Aria occupies has its own eventful history, dating back to the 1960s when the restaurant served as the showroom for Kenneth Garcia Interiors. By the 1970s, the property transitioned into a home for notable restaurants, starting with The Hedgerose Heights Inn and later Roni & Dee, known for country Italian. Klaskala, who also opened Atlanta dining mainstays Canoe and Atlas, launched Aria in 2000. After 16 years, the restaurant underwent a thoughtful renovation led by Stacey Kirby and Atlanta’s Seiber Design, including a new bar area with a striking marble bar top, a walnut back bar, and additional seating to welcome walk-in diners. The dining room was also transformed, featuring a more laid-back and contemporary look that continues to define Aria today.
Beyond its storied past and updated interiors, Aria’s creamless celery soup has become a hallmark of its menu, embodying the restaurant’s commitment to understated luxury and impeccable technique. There is a matter of factness to the dish, and it’s a popular one with diners, whether they’re going all out by ordering the tasting menu (which is very affordable, by the way) or enjoying a quick bite at the cozy bar. The dish feels just as appropriate for a quiet solo night as it does for marking life’s milestones with the people you love — a rare balance, one might note, in a space that can accommodate up to 65 seated guests at any given time.
Once you try it, the soup is delicious and craveable. We work diligently to recreate that experience, that memory of trying it for the first time. Every single time.— Gerry Klaskala
So, what’s the secret? Butter. Lots and lots of butter. While the soup forgoes cream, it leans into the richness of butter to achieve its sleek structure. This, combined with Klaskala’s meticulous execution, brings out the natural sweetness and nutty notes of celery root, resulting in a satin-like base that feels indulgent yet balanced — a course that’s comforting, warming, and nuanced.
Each bowl arrives adorned with black truffles and a generous shaving of Parmigiano Reggiano. The truffle lends an earthy, aromatic depth that complements the soup’s smoothness, while the cheese adds a savory, umami-rich complexity. It’s a combination that lifts any meal at Aria from exceptional to unforgettable. “The way the four simple ingredients come together is really special,” says Klaskala. “It’s all about great technique and taking your time to develop the flavors.”
Andres Loaiza, the restaurant’s wine director, suggests pairing it with a pinot blanc/chardonnay blend. “I’m loving the 2022 one from the Rebholz estate, a classic German producer from the southern region of Pfalz,” he says. “The wine has just the right combination of verve to beautifully carry that delicious mouthful of flavor and texture in the soup without adding unnecessary noise. People talk about a pairing that leaves your palate ready for the next bite, and this is a perfect example of that.”
“If you’ve never had it before, it doesn’t sound like much,” Klaskala says, “but once you try it, the soup is delicious and craveable. We work diligently to recreate that experience, that memory of trying it for the first time. Every single time.”
Allison Ramirez is a bicoastal, Atlanta-based (for now) freelance journalist. She has over a decade of experience writing for publications like Travel + Leisure, the Daily Beast, Liquor, Thrillist, and others. Her recent work spans art, architecture, travel, and food & beverage stories, focusing on diversity within those spaces in the South and beyond. Follow her on Instagram here. Follow Resy, too.