Cafe Tondo Is L.A.’s New All-Day (and All-Night) Hot Spot
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If there’s one new restaurant that everyone’s talking about right now, it’s this one: Cafe Tondo blew onto the scene in late July from a group of designers turned first-time restaurateurs. The ambitious all-day-into-night concept inside the former Oriel space in Chinatown comes from design firm Mouthwash Studio, the team responsible for the branding at Nike Running, Kindred, and Rose Delights.
Cafe Tondo is their effort to produce a “third space” in the same neighborhood as their company headquarters. They recruited seasoned chef Luis Luna, a Guadalajara native and a Damian alum to head up the menu. Since opening, they’ve pivoted the food offerings a bit, from a pan-Latin menu to a more tightly focused Mexican-inspired menu made with seasonal California produce.
“We want to use our means, which is design, to be able to create a space that’s unique and answers a community need,” says Mouthwash co-founder Abraham Campillo. “What does the future of the cafe look like? For us, it was very dynamic. It’s not just transactional,” he adds.
ICYMI, a slew of Mexico City-inspired restaurants have opened in L.A. over the last few years, but Tondo stands out for its lighter, all-day menu and focus on cafe culture. And if the crowds that are forming in the parking lot are any indication, Tondo is shaping up to be the scene of fall. Here’s everything you need to know about this buzzy new Chinatown destination.
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The vibe is homey cantina meets hip European cafe.
Shortly after Oriel closed in April of this year, owners Dustin Lancaster and Alain Jeu chatted with Campillo about taking over the space. After signing the lease, Cafe Tondo opened in a whirlwind 75 days; so to be expected, many original details have remained. Designed by Aunt Studio, the same group behind Mouthwash’s office space, the feel inside is warm, cozy, and casual. “We wanted to offer a hospitable space that first meets the needs of our lifestyle,” says Campillo of the design and day-to-night concept.
A loungey cafe area lined with cushioned banquettes, upholstered velvet stools, and small circular tables greets guests as they enter the T-shaped space, followed by multiple seating areas both inside and out. Original details like exposed ceilings and painted brick from previous tenants remain, alongside new touches, including red plaster, conical steel pendants, and a dark wooden bar. Custom furniture from OMBIA Studio (all handcrafted in Mexico) include wooden tables and chairs, tie-on cushions, and built-in bottle holders. The Mexican ceramics dotting the space are courtesy of Isabella Marengo of Bugambilia, alternating with artwork on the walls from the owner’s own private collection.
The all-day menu is serving pastries, brunch fare, and coffee during the day…
“Some coffee shops close at 3 p.m., which to me is insane,” says Campillo, who grew up drinking coffee at all hours in his Mexican household. Hoping to bridge the gap, Tondo will operate its morning menu from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., with coffee and a few pastries available until sundown.
Offering a variety of pan dulces like pan de elote, conchas, and croissants (some made in-house and some brought in from third-party bakers), look out for a pan de muerto now that the Dia de los Muertos season is upon us. Pair it with cafe de olla, a cortado, or a matcha latte to jumpstart into the week, or Abuellita’s Hot Chocolate for something more soothing.
…and hearty, Mexican comfort foods at night.
Luna draws from his experience working primarily in Mexico and L.A. as well as inspiration from Campillo’s childhood favorites when it came to designing the all-day into night menu.
You’ll find more tortilla-adjacent dishes on the menu than there were at opening, with Luna pulling from his training at Guadalajara’s Xokol. He makes his own handmade tortillas using heirloom corn from Mexico for dishes like the taco ribeye and the tuna tostada. For the “Flaco Burrito,” Luna removes rice from the filling and uses a Mejorado flour tortilla to create a less-starchy version of the classic. “The idea with Tondo is that you can order the whole menu between two people, so we wanted to do a burrito that wasn’t too filling,” says Luna.” You can add ribeye to it or make it a breakfast burrito with scrambled eggs, but all are served with beans, salsa, and queso fresco.
Luna’s favorite dish on the menu is perhaps the simplest. He takes Weiser Farms’ melon, slices it thickly, and serves it with olive oil and a dusting of sal de gusano (worm salt, a Oaxacan delicacy). The fruit will rotate with the seasons and what’s available at the market.
The party doesn’t stop after dinner.
A restaurant that operates from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. is practically unheard of in L.A., but Tondo hopes to break barriers by offering a late-night scene as well as an early morning one. “There’s a lack of live music in L.A. nowadays,” laments Campillo. The programming at Tondo will spotlight artists representing various popular music styles of Latin America including flamenco, bolero, jazz, salsa as well as DJ residencies on Saturday nights (check Instagram for program updates). And look out for some exciting unexpected guests too, including a recent surprise DJ set from the legendary Tame Impala.
A small drinks menu emphasizes both local and Latin American wines and more.
While for now Tondo is beer and wine only, you can expect a tight selection including vermouths from Argentina (which can be ordered as a spritz), as well as cheladas and micheladas made with Mexican beers.
