Wenwen’s Eric Sze Shares His Favorite Comfort Foods in NYC
Where do chefs and restaurateurs go and, more importantly, where do they love to eat? In Resy Regulars, we ask Resy chefs and industry folks to tell us where they’re regulars.
In this edition, we’re talking with Eric Sze, the chef behind New York’s Taiwanese favorites, 886 in the East Village, and Wenwen in Greenpoint.
For Sze, comfort is king. After a long service, what he wants is something simple done right — and he certainly knows where to find it, from glistening beef bone soup to a very impassioned testimony for his neighborhood soft serve.
“Nowadays, I’m really on a comfort kick,” Sze says. “I’m not necessarily super into going to brand-new restaurants, I don’t have the pressure of checking out the newest place or being super on trend. My personality is definitely [geared toward] comfort, flavor, and familiarity.”
Here are a few of his favorite spots that give just that, in his own words.
More Resy Regulars
1. El Pingüino Brooklyn
The ideal nightcap
Lately I’ve been in a martini phase. I’m no expert in martinis, but I just know what I like and what I don’t.
Being in the industry, we work long hours, so sometimes I grab a drink before I go home. There was one particular night in February … it was cold, and I had wrapped up work a little earlier than I expected, around 10:30 p.m. I wanted a nice martini, so I went to a bar in Greenpoint. The martini was absolutely horrendous. It was so disgusting; it was the first time I didn’t finish a drink that I paid for. I couldn’t even bear the idea of taking another sip.
I paid my tab, and I was so upset, but then I remembered that my friend Adam had introduced me to El Pingüino on Greenpoint Avenue. The hospitality was warm, and the space is beautiful. I sat down and ordered myself the perfect martini: Monkey 47 gin and sweet and dry vermouth.
It’s the martini I think about every single time. I try not to go as often as I want to. Get an order of the sourdough bread and a martini to wash it down. It’s fantastic. If you go with another person, share the sourdough bread and the Basque cheesecake — perfect night.
Photo by Nick Padilla, courtesy of El Pingüino
2. Parksanbal Babs Flushing
The best hangover cure
The next day, if I wake up with a slight hangover, I’m in the mood for soup. A place that is kind of like a hidden gem that I go to is Parksanbal Babs in Flushing. It’s awesome. It’s a little bit further in Flushing, but they specialize in just one thing: It’s this clear, beef soup. Their banchan, their egg, especially, it always brings me back to life.
They’ve been in business forever. It’s getting harder to find businesses in New York City that specialize in one thing, because people always love variety. This is the place that, every single time you go, the soup is warming, refreshing, and it’s a neighborhood favorite.
I think that’s very in line with my comfort style. I don’t even live in that neighborhood — that’s all the more proof it’s awesome.
Call (718) 840-8467 to make a reservation.
3. The Screen Door Greenpoint
The quintessential soft serve
I love their soft-serve ice cream. To me, their soft serve is the best I have had, period. It’s just so simple; it doesn’t try to wow you with dehydrated cacao powder, or go above and beyond with flavors. It’s a classic chocolate vanilla swirl. Perfect sweetness, not too sweet. Perfect creaminess. Everything down to the cake cone is perfect. It’s the quintessential definition of soft serve. I think about it, no joke, every single day.
Soft serve was one of my favorite things to eat growing up. Most of the places you go to are trying to do too much. I can definitively say that The Screen Door has ruined McDonald’s soft serve for me. I used to die on the McDonald’s soft serve hill. But after having Screen Door? No toppings please, no sprinkles, don’t dip it in chocolate. Take a walk in McGolrick park, finish it in five minutes or less, and go about your day.
It’s the most efficient and valuable use of calories. That dopamine spike carries you through the day. It’s right next to a park. You see kids running around. You remember looking forward to ice cream as a kid. At The Screen Door, you get to experience that again for the low price of, like, $5.99. They should really hire me.
Walk-ins only.
4. Nón Lá East Village
The best phở
Nón Lá has some of the best phở that’s on the lighter side. I feel like with phở, just like ramen, people have their own preference. I’m at an age where I like lighter things over more powerful, heavy dishes. I’ll take that lighter broth any day.
Their phở is just so good. It’s one of the few places that I’ve been to that does culantro. Most places just do basil, jalapeño, and bean sprouts. That makes the difference. The broth is beefy, tastes a little bit like fish sauce, and the beef flavor comes through without being overly greasy. They also do beef tendons, and I’m a sucker for beef tendons.
Walk-ins only.
5. Lord’s NoHo
The very definition of hearty comfort food
I choose Lord’s over Dame for this, although Dame is delicious, but when I’m thinking about comfort food, I think of Lord’s. Everything is hearty, and I’m indulging.
Ed [Szymanski] and Patricia [Howard, the owners of Lord’s and Dame] are just doing such incredible things. I’ve been a fan since day one. We did a pop-up with them; it’s not nepotism, just pure love.
6. Maxi’s Noodle Flushing
Wonton for the win
Another place I like to go to in Flushing that I can’t not talk about is Maxi’s Noodle. Their wontons are just so fantastic. It’s like 90% shrimp, which explains why it’s so juicy. The way they form it just hits a sweet spot. And the wonton soup? I think it’s chicken broth with a little bit of fish and anchovies. It’s a perfect surf and turf. It’s flavorful without being overpowering. It’s light. Sometimes, I have two orders.
Walk-ins only.