Origin Korean BBQ Puts a New Spin on a Storied K-Town Restaurant Space
There are few dining experiences that are more quintessentially Los Angeles than Korean barbecue. The city is home to the largest diaspora of Koreans in the world, and our Koreatown lies in the center of the greater metro area, a neighborhood that’s often a surface street thoroughfare between any two points in the city. As Korean culture began to attract mainstream American appeal via K-pop, movies, and multi-episodic dramas, it always landed here first.
In 2012, Psy’s Gangnam Style went viral stateside, and the first American outpost of Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong arrived in Chapman Market. Now, the original Baekjeong space is transforming into a new concept, Origin Korean BBQ, which is poised to continue evolving the Koreatown dining scene as much as its predecessor did a decade ago.
Origin’s locale in Chapman Market carries a historic significance for the neighborhood. In Spanish revival style, it opened in 1929, and was one of the first plazas in the west built for automobiles. It continues to serve as the heart of Koreatown nightlife today. Catchy K-pop anthems waft out over pulsating bass notes while neon glimmers from karaoke rooms and street signage lights up the neighborhood. Valets run circles, retrieving cars parked deeper into the neighborhood as modified imports back into diagonal parking spots, facing the plaza’s one-way drive-through. Well-dressed revelers disappear into restaurants and lounges after emerging from clubby wood-lined bars serving irresistible fried chicken.
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Origin’s opening marks the next era for the storied space. The room has been redone with dark woods and white tiles in a retro vibe reminiscent of 1960s Seoul. The posters along the wall are a direct reference to the era during which Korea was emerging from Japanese colonial rule, the remnants of which are indicated by the transference of Western loanwords such as “biru” for beer. At this point in history, they had just begun forging their own cultural identity and economic independence.
“Korea was in a very transitional time getting out from under Japanese influence. We were entering new political regimes and it was a turbulent time, but we were also full of energy and hope. And there was an influx of modern technology from the West,” says Grace Jo, spokesperson for On 6th Avenue, the hospitality group behind the new concept.
As for the brand new menu, Origin, which launched with a burgundy-colored logo and Korean peninsula-positioned tiger, is also distinguishing itself by featuring certain meat and side specialties. It highlights thinly sliced, prime pork belly and garlic bone-in short ribs inspired by Jeju’s Manong, the culinary pride of the Korean island. The tables now have inserts for hot pot alongside the grill, meant to keep their signature five-hour soybean paste stew with beef brisket and ramen warm the duration of your meal.
Another new item, tteok galbi, features patties made of minced beef short rib in a proprietary marinade. This less-common KBBQ offering is reminiscent of a dish once reserved only for Korean royalty, who preferred a boneless style of meat-eating. Dipping sauces such as barley ssamjang and pickled radish kimchi complement every preparation. As for the beverages, choose from classic Jinro and Saero no-sugar soju; Terra, Cass, Kloud, and Sapporo beers; some Korean wines, and a limited selection of natural and locally produced wine.
Meanwhile, Baekjeong (which recently dropped the Kang Ho Dong part of their name) is still going strong: there are now five of them across the Southland, as well as one in San Jose. The group is opening a new flagship restaurant in Los Angeles later this year, spanning some 6,500 square feet on 8th Avenue.
Korean barbecue in L.A. has always employed the spoils of quality local ingredients available in Southern California, evolving into a boundlessly popular way of dining. Angelenos of all backgrounds enjoy the camaraderie that comes with the meal, digging in to banchan and small plates while marveling over the tableside-prepared meats being cooked at the center. Origin is the culmination of over a decade of experience in the space that helped transform KBBQ in this city, and today it’s poised to bring the genre to new heights all over again.
Esther Tseng is a food, drinks, and culture writer. She has contributed to The Los Angeles Times, Eater, Food & Wine, Civil Eats, and more. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram. Follow Resy, too.
