Zabala’s food is unforgettable

With the frequency that I dine at restaurants, I’ll admit that after a month or two, my recollection of many tasting menus fade to where I might only recall a favorite dish or two. Not the case for Somni. My taste memories from a year ago are still strong: Zabala’s mussel escabeche gave me an entirely newfound appreciation for what was previously my least favorite mollusk.

There will be foams, tweezer garnishes, and one-bite snacks that require a week of preparation, but the current iteration of Somni feels more focused and more intentional than ever before. Dishes that embrace Zabala’s Catalan heritage are among his best, including dry-aged Spanish turbot in a collagen-rich skin and bone consommé, followed by turbot fin served on the bone as finger food. Deconstructed gazpacho blanco is a beautifully layered arpeggio of ajo blanco and classic tomato gazpacho, a perfect example of how Somni’s cuisine is driven by precision, structure, and depth.

Expect trompe-l’œil presentations like a fish-shaped iwashi Japanese sardine tart that is nearly too pretty to eat, or a trio of molded donuts, madeleines, and caviar-topped croissants to conclude.

Drink pairings are de rigueur

Unique for fine dining, Somni does not offer wines by the glass, and all reservations include either alcoholic or non-alcoholic drink pairings, as well as a hybrid “maridatge” option, which combines both a wine and a non-alcoholic progression. Bottles of wine are available, too.

It’s a “go big or go home” mindset, but the drinks really do make for a fuller experience and it is important to Zabala that all diners partake, as the pairings are an important way to build the cultural dialogue between Spain and California.

If you’re dining with a companion, I recommend getting one non-alcoholic and one alcoholic pairing so you can share and have the best of both worlds. The vibrant mocktails are all made from scratch, and served in beautiful glassware. I often preferred these to the wines, which are a lovely selection of mostly Spanish and Californian bottles.

The experience is only getting better

Some restaurants might hit the pinnacle of three Michelin stars and start to play it safe, but not Somni. Zabala says that he has a renewed mindset of exploration, and that this second year is all about strengthening the restaurant’s foundation, improving efficiency, creating a more sustainable rhythm for the team, and sharpening every detail of the guest experience.

“We want to be more radical,” he says. “But to do that responsibly and consistently, the system behind it must be solid. Stability is not about slowing down, it’s about building control. Because true creativity requires structure.”

It can be easier to book the private dining room

If you’re having trouble booking seats at the chef’s counter, consider booking the six-seat private cellar instead and inviting friends to join. The menu is the same as at the counter, and while you don’t have the same front row experience, the more intimate setting is yours for the night, and a great choice for celebrations.

“I hope guests leave Somni with a memory that stays with them for a long time, maybe even forever,” Zabala says. “I want them to remember who they were with. What they felt. The connection with the team. The food. The atmosphere. I try to create a moment — honest, precise, and meaningful. If that moment becomes a lasting memory, then we did our job.”