Meet ABL Hollywood, a Sleek Destination for Jamaican Chinese Cuisine
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The mother-and-daughter duo behind Downtown L.A.’s A Beautiful Life have been spreading their joy for Caribbean cooking throughout the city for over a decade. As their restaurant and catering business has grown, it’s propelled Barbara and Aja Dawson to enter their next chapter: exploring their Jamaican and Chinese roots in their sleek new sister location, ABL Hollywood.
“When we saw an opportunity come up on our dream street — we always wanted to be on Cahuenga Boulevard — we thought, here’s our moment to do this continued expression and … a hyphenated version of A Beautiful Life,” says Aja.
The Dawsons initially opened A Beautiful Life in 2013, selling boozy cupcakes and Jamaican patties before scaling up to a full-service restaurant in Little Tokyo, known for its jerk chicken, oxtail mac and cheese, and rasta pasta (a creamy alfredo penne with jerk seasoning). While some of their Caribbean hits (including a striking escovitch snapper) grace their new Hollywood menu, there are now more fusion items in the mix, like jerk chicken-filled crispy egg rolls drizzled with sweet chile.
Cooking blended cuisines comes naturally for Barbara, who grew up in Jamaica watching her Chinese grandfather and uncles whipping up both Asian and Caribbean dishes. Barbara’s uncle even operated a Jamaican Chinese restaurant. (The history of Asian immigrants in Jamaica dates back to the 19th century, when plantation owners brought Chinese and East Indians to work as indentured laborers.)
“We ate a lot of different foods, some we understood and some we did not, but it was all delicious,” says Barbara. “When I had my daughter, I tried to give her that experience as well.” Aja learned how to cook and entertain from her mother’s elaborate dinners and holiday parties, which were always “full-blown productions,” she says. Bringing people together has always been an ethos that the pair have carried on in their restaurants. Here, Aja and Barbara give us the rundown on everything you need to know before you go to ABL Hollywood.
Expect big, bold flavors.
“All of these different cultures are a big melting pot, which is the bigger story that we’re telling,” says Aja. One of the best examples of their culinary mashups is the oxtail lo mein. An umami-rich jerk-teriyaki sauce made in-house coats hand-pulled egg noodles that are dotted with slow-braised oxtail and pops of color from carrots and broccoli. Visually, the dish playfully pays homage to Chinese fast food, arriving at the table in a white takeout box.
The fried rice is their take on Jamaican rice and peas, which are traditionally made with red kidney beans. In their version, the flavors are dialed up with curry spices and a layer of heat balanced with fresh vegetables like bite-sized green beans. It’s a perfect accompaniment to saucier dishes like jerk chen pi ji wings, slathered in an orange-laced gravy intensified with scotch bonnet peppers. “You get the great technique of Jamaican-style jerk chicken, but with these deeply aromatic and bold Szechuan flavors,” says Aja.
The fresh cocktails play with Asian and Caribbean flavors.
The duo wear many hats in their business, from cooking in the kitchen to working front-of-house, and doing R&D for drinks. “I’m obsessed with mixology, so I take the helm with the program, but my mom does a lot of the tasting,” says Aja. “She has such a refined palate, so she’s a very integral part of the process.”
Aja’s cocktails are bright, vibrant, and juicy, leaning on tropical fruit like guava, pineapple, and lychee. There are nods to Caribbean beverages like a rum punch made with Jamaica’s Appleton Rum, to a sorrel (hibiscus) sangria laced with pineapple and orange, and a refreshing mocktail sorrel spritz brightened with cinnamon. Barbara’s favorite is the Bad Gal, a combination of Japanese Suntory Whisky Toki, smoked plum wine, orange bitters, and lavender extract.
Brunch has its own surprises.
While open for dinner six days a week, ABL Hollywood also hosts brunch on the weekends from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. There are modern Jamaican breakfast creations like honey jerk chicken wings paired with red velvet waffles, jerk chicken omelettes with onions and Cheddar cheese, and a pineapple-coconut French toast.
The design and vibes invite guests to stay awhile.
Located down the block from the busy intersection of Hollywood and Cahuenga Boulevards, ABL is a respite from the bustle of the area. Enter the restaurant and you’ll feel a complete vibe shift, one that’s dark, intimate, and romantic. Modern R&B from Mariah the Scientist to Late Night Ricky set the low-tempo mood. The space is completely bathed in burgundy, from the shaggy red wine-hued chairs to plush corduroy banquettes and curtains. Lush green monstera and pothos plants surround the restaurant, peppered with gold accents throughout. It’s a color palette that speaks to both Chinese and Jamaican cultures.
“It feels warm and inviting, like someone’s home that you’re having dinner at,” says Aja.
In a mere month’s time, the Dawsons managed to transform the 1,500-square-foot space from a boba shop into a stunning 36-seat restaurant. Armed with a mood board and love for design, the pair pored over the tiniest details, including making sure the glassware matched the couch. Aja gives credit to their horoscope signs (she’s a Scorpio, her mother a Virgo) for being so detail-oriented. If anything, it’s another way in which the two have a symbiotic relationship.
“It’s been such a beautiful journey, and I feel privileged to be able to share it with my daughter,” says Barbara. “I truly get a warm and fuzzy feeling just going to work with her every day and watching her get creative.”