The One Who Keeps the Book Los Angeles
How to Get Into Lucia, Fairfax’s Glamorous Afro-Caribbean Destination
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When it comes to a beautiful room with a scene to match, Lucia, the Afro-Carribean restaurant located in the Fairfax District, has it in spades. Couples and girl groups dressed for a night on the town squeeze into the restaurant’s oversized shell booths, lingering over okra martinis, or position themselves next to the DJ booth. Dreamed up by famed hospitality design firm Preen Inc., the nine-month-old hotspot has already raked in several design awards, speaking to its level of vibes: immaculate.
One might be tempted to think of the food here as an after thought. Resist that temptation.
Two-time James Beard Award finalist Cleophus “Ophus” Hethington recently took over as executive head chef, injecting new life into the menu. Dishes hopscotch across the African diaspora in the form of Trini-Chinese chicken with tamarind-chile cashews and pickapeppa sauce; Haitian-style wagyu tasso with pikliz (a spicy cabbage and chile-laced pickle) and citrus jus; and a green fig leaf-roasted fish with naranja agria (bitter orange), bell peppers caldo, and lime caviar.
So how do you snag that shell booth for yourself? And what should you order once you do?
We sat down with Toni Purrity, the GM making sure a Saturday night lives up to everything it promises, to get all the details, from the tricks to getting a last-minute reservation to the best seat in the house.
Can you tell me a little bit about you, your background, and how you got to Lucia?
Toni Purrity: I’ve been in the industry for nine years. Right now, I’m the general manager, but I also handle the books, reservations, emails, all of that.
I started my career as a food runner, and then I found a passion for hosting and maître d’ work and the relationships that you make in that space. I learned a lot working at Catch L.A. — when I was there, we were doing almost a thousand covers a night, with busy VIPs and celebrities. That really helped shape and guide how I like to build our reservations and take care of our guests. When this project came up, it was super exciting. It was a really great concept, and they brought me in as assistant general manager, and now I’ve been made the general manager.
When you’re looking over reservations and preparing for service, what do you look for to give guests the best experience?
The first thing we like to look for is guests who’ve been with us before. I think it’s really important to acknowledge guests who’ve dined with us and who are becoming regulars, and to do something special for them. We also really read notes. People put notes in their reservations for a reason. They don’t just say it’s their birthday for fun. They want a greeting at the door, they want their server to know, they want a candle with their dessert, they want to feel special.
How big is the restaurant?
We have about 85 seats and 35 tables, so it’s a relatively small room.
How many covers do you usually do in a night?
On busy nights we usually land around 220 covers. On more relaxed evenings, we’re still doing about 150 to 180.
Do you accept walk-ins?
We definitely accept walk-ins. We always hold the bar for walk-ins so they have somewhere to sit and enjoy at least a snack or a cocktail.
If someone is planning to walk in, what’s the best time to try?
Early or late. Between 6 and 6:30, or later in the evening after 10. We do our last seating around 11. We seat walk-ins based on cancellations or no-shows, and if someone is 15 minutes late to their reservation, we make it a priority to seat our walk-ins. We just ask that guests are patient with us.
Has there been a moment since opening that really moved the needle for the restaurant?
Right after we opened, we had a guest who did a TikTok that went super viral. She featured the front of our building–we have a gold plaque sign out front that’s become a popular photo spot–and highlighted the dining experience and some of the most beautiful features in the restaurant.
It was all really positive, and we didn’t pay for anything. After that, we had tons of guests coming in and making TikToks. It was really nice that it all happened very naturally.
If someone wants to experience the restaurant properly, what should they order?
I would start with the plantains and expressions. It’s a sweet, light introduction to the meal, and plantains are really popular in the Caribbean, so it gives you a good sense of what you’re about to get into. Then I’d move to the patties. We have a beef patty and an aloo patty, which is vegetarian, and both are fantastic. I would get both. Next, I’d do the island milk and gold crudo. It’s raw avocado with marinated mango, coconut sauce, and cashews. It’s light, refreshing, and not overwhelming, just a really delicious teaser that won’t put you off your entrée.
For mains, the ropa fina, the curry duck breast, and the Guyanese chow mein. A lot of people ask why that’s on a Caribbean menu, but there’s a really big Chinese influence in the Caribbean that not a lot of people know about. And then the pastelón, which is reminiscent of a lasagna but made with plantain. It’s a great side and something you probably haven’t had before.
You recently brought on a new head chef. What’s changed?
The differences are huge, night and day … [Hethington’s] focus is on education and highlighting Caribbean influence: Haitian-inspired dishes, Indian influence, Chinese influence. It’s about the diaspora and how all of these cultures came together. He knows these ingredients inside and out. He has family from the Caribbean — this is who he is. Every ingredient he chooses is intentional. He’s very passionate, very talented, and you can really taste that. Now the menu speaks for itself. Before, it was a beautiful room, music, DJ — cool. But now you sit down and settle into a meal. The food itself is the experience, and everything else builds around it.
When do reservations open?
We book two weeks in advance on Resy. But we always tell people to email us. We have a general email that I review, our reservationist reviews, and even our owner looks at. We really try to make things work for guests who reach out directly, especially if it’s something important.
How quickly do seats get booked out?
Primetime seatings are typically booked as soon as they are released, with all other reservations booking about a week in advance.
How long is the usual Resy Notify list? Do people see success getting a table using Notify?
Our notify list is typically 20 to 40 guests on Wednesdays and Sundays, and can get up to 200+ guests on holidays and weekends.
What’s the most competitive reservation to get?
Friday and Saturday between 7:30 and 9:30. The DJ goes on at 8, the lights get lower, and people want to be here for that full dining-plus-nightlife experience.
Are there any other tips or tricks you have for getting a table?
Making a friend in the restaurant is always a good way to go, or taking the time to call in. There’s always reservations opening up last minute that you may get lucky with over the phone.
What’s the largest party you’ll seat without a private event?
Eight people comfortably. We try to be flexible, but eight is the largest party we seat regularly. After that, we move into private dining, where we can host 20 to 30 guests.
What makes Lucia’s nightlife energy feel different from other restaurants in L.A.?
Diversity. Diversity in the music (Afrobeats, hip-hop, R&B) and diversity in the room. We have people coming to meet people, people coming for birthdays, for date nights, for celebrations. You see beautiful guy groups, girl groups, everyone dressed up. It feels really unique.
What’s the best seat in the house?
People love our shell booths, especially table 103 in the center of the dining room. For something more private, table 302 can be completely curtained. And if you want to be near the DJ and the bar, table 204 is perfect.
What are people drinking right now?
We’re very cocktail-driven. The lychee margarita is our top seller. We sell an incredible amount of those. The okra martini is my favorite; it’s elevated, not too heavy, and Afro-Caribbean inspired. We also added a Cosmo riff with Hypnotiq. It’s a fun throwback and really delicious.
What does the dress code look like on a Saturday night?
Men are usually business casual in slacks, polos, sweaters. Most women are in dresses. We get everything from going-out looks to full ball gowns. People really dress up.
Is there anything else guests should know before coming?
I think it’s really special that everyone can feel comfortable here. There’s no snootiness at the host stand. Everyone is welcome, everyone is seen, and that’s something we work really hard to create.