Letter of Recommendation Chicago
How Bistro Campagne Keeps the Romance Alive After Two Decades in Lincoln Square
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In a city where new restaurants open seemingly every week and people can’t wait to get their hands on the shiny new toy, there’s something special about classic mainstays that continue drawing customers, of both the new and regular variety. And thank god we have them. Bistro Campagne is one of those places that has retained its romantic charm for nearly 25 years — with no signs of slowing down.
When I first learned about Bistro Campagne, the darling Lincoln Square French restaurant nestled alongside a peaceful garden that opened in 2002, it struck me as one of those higher-end, fancy date-night spots — the kind of place you reserve only for special occasions.
While it certainly can fall into that category, it wasn’t until my husband and I started dining there many years ago that we realized just how welcoming Bistro Campagne is for any occasion. You can save it for an anniversary or birthday, but you can also pop in on a Tuesday for a casual meal or drink at the bar. That’s what makes it such a special spot and true neighborhood gem.
When you go, you know what to expect from this true-to-form bistro. Sure, the menu changes seasonally, but the mainstays — that juicy roast chicken with golden skin; a tender steak frites with crispy thin-cut fries and a rich Bordelaise; piping hot escargot swimming in a buttery Pastis-scented sauce — keep you coming back.
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We love going in summer when the garden is in full bloom, including the towering trees that offer ample shade. You can sit on the stone-covered patio among the statues and water features or within the small structure in the middle of it all. String lights create a beautifully calming atmosphere that quickly make you forget a busy street sits just beyond the fence. You settle in with a martini, a manhattan, or a glass of Chablis as you await your warm baguette with soft butter.
But it’s equally, if not more, charming during the winter, when you can tuck into the rustic room, all dark wood and delicate lighting that transports you to the French countryside. The Art Deco vibe welcomes you into the front bar with its handwritten chalkboard menu highlighting wines by the glass. Walk deeper into the space, with its yellow painted and mosaic tiled walls and vibrant Van Gogh-like mural, and get enveloped by its quaint simplicity.
What makes Campagne truly special — on top of the food and decor — is the staff, its heart and soul. Founding chef-owner Michael Altenberg, who sadly passed away suddenly in 2012, set the tone. He always led with a warm, magnetic smile that said come in, sit down, relax. He was an early pioneer in Chicago’s farm-to-table movement, sourcing organic ingredients when possible, for his simply prepared French bistro fare. After his death, his team stepped up, carrying that energy to this day.
“Michael was bigger than life in so many aspects,” said general manager Alex Uribe, who started working here in late 2009. “He wasn’t the chef, he was the mascot. He was the embodiment of what we do.”
Current chef Adam Grandt now carries that torch in the kitchen. He honed his craft in small independent restaurants like the once-acclaimed, now-closed Carlos in Highland Park, Vincent in Andersonville, and Wicker Park’s Chop Shop. Uribe said that Grandt shares many of Altenberg’s characteristics, including a desire to source sustainably, organically, and locally.
Grandt respects the classic French recipes, but also playfully updates certain dishes. Take the decadent pommes pavé, which gets a modern twist with the addition of smoked trout and its roe. Or his savory profiteroles, filled with creamy foie gras. His delicate endive salad gets a boost with the addition of a tangy whipped goat cheese. “These are fun riffs that speak to his understanding of the French basics and how you can [update] them with a Midwestern sensibility,” Uribe added.
Grandt and Uribe are just two pieces of the overall service puzzle here. The staff, many of whom have worked here for years, add to the appeal and are in large part responsible for many diners becoming regulars. (My husband and I felt that warm embrace from the moment we walked in and were greeted with big smiles that helped ease the sharp wintry chill outside.) We were seated at a table in the middle of the bar area and, sensing we felt a little on display, Uribe came by moments after we settled in with two glasses of brut rosé cremant from the Loire Valley to welcome us. That little touch made us feel special, which is something we know was not unique to our table.
“It’s a beautiful oasis of quiet away from everything else. There’s a stillness that makes you immediately feel at ease,” said Dan Jacobs, who was Bistro Campagne’s chef de cuisine from 2007 to 2010 and now owns DanDan and EsterEv restaurants in Milwaukee. “There’s a magic there you don’t create — it just happens, and you’re just lucky enough to be involved.”
Ari Bendersky, a lifestyle journalist specializing in food, wine, spirits, and travel, is the author of Something Glorious with Ari Bendersky on Substack and the host of the docu-series Family Meal. Follow him on Instagram. Follow Resy, too.
