Portraits of New York New York
Ramen by Ra’s Rasheeda Purdie Is Building For the Long Run
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Rasheeda Purdie hasn’t always worked in restaurants, but after being a fashion consultant for many years, she decided to finally pursue her creative passions and begin a career in restaurants just before the pandemic. I’ve been following her work since she was cooking on the line at Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster and hosting pop-ups to explore her culinary voice back in 2019. That exploration eventually brought her to cooking ramen, which became a way for her to artfully present the story of both her heritage and her New York City experience.
After more than a year of success in a tiny, five-seat stall at The Bowery Market, Purdie is in the midst of building out a new brick-and-mortar location in the East Village that’s slightly roomier and all hers in which to share her vision. It’s scheduled to open on Nov. 15. Longevity in restaurants is something for which she’s building and striving. As she creates this new space, I wanted to know how she’s building something meant to outlast the hype.
Note: This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
Resy: Let’s start with where you are now. What’s your current position and how long have you been there?
Rasheeda Purdie: My current role is chef and owner of Ramen by Ra, located in New York City. Ramen by Ra was established during the pandemic, in 2021, and has evolved from offering ramen kits to hosting pop-up events, eventually leading to our standalone shop.
How long have you been working in restaurants? Where did you first start out?
I have been involved in the restaurant industry since 2016. I enrolled in the Institute of Culinary Education in 2015, making a significant transition from my previous career as a fashion stylist to pursue my passion for culinary arts. Embracing my 30s, I sought a fresh start, and culinary school provided that opportunity. I began my journey in the kitchen at Duane Park, located on the Bowery, then progressed to Untitled at the Whitney, and finally completed my experience at Red Rooster in Harlem before shifting my focus to hospitality management.
What people or restaurants inspired you when you were starting out? Are there institutions that you look to when you think of what you want to build?
I was truly inspired by the chefs in Harlem, where I had the honor of working alongside remarkable chefs such as Melba Wilson (Melba’s), Marcus Samuelsson (Red Rooster), and Chef JJ Johnson (Field Trip).
Their commitment to hospitality and community deeply motivated me to collaborate with them early in my career. It was chef Melba who first introduced me to chef JJ, leading to my internship at The Cecil in Harlem. Later, I joined chef Marcus Samuelsson at Red Rooster, which became my longest position. This experience was incredibly enriching as I assisted him not only at Red Rooster but also at private events and even on talk shows like “Good Morning America.”
I often reflect on my gratitude for the chance to work with these extraordinary chefs and the invaluable relationships I forged with them from the very start.
Did you have mentors who showed you what success could look like? What lessons have you taken that you feel are important to your own success?
Yes, I have mentors who have shown me the ins and outs of the industry — they never sugarcoated anything during these valuable career lessons.
Marcus Samuelsson played a major role in my career. Not only did he take me under his wing during the early stages, but even to this day, he is a valuable mentor still.
What is important for you in crafting a menu and experience that people want to return for?
What matters most to me when designing a menu is achieving a balance between familiarity and innovation. I enjoy enticing guests with dishes that offer comfort, paired with an unexpected twist. The comforting elements of the menu help create a homey atmosphere, while the innovative aspects spark curiosity. It’s about blending tradition with creativity, pushing boundaries toward the future — a common thread that resonates with many of us. This approach unites us. It’s essential to tell a story, and I must ensure that I keep that narrative alive.
Having returning customers is a significant aspect of Ramen by Ra. It not only indicates that I’m not the sole admirer of this unique twist on ramen but also shows that others share the same interest. This consistency enables me to retain my customers, which is something I take great pride in. I have cultivated trust through my food, and in return, I have received immense support from those who appreciate my culinary creations.
What keeps you inspired in the work and the food? How do you stay interested and keep your creativity?
What fuels my inspiration in the culinary world is the chance to think creatively and craft innovative ramen dishes. It’s a journey that involves numerous steps to piece everything together. The changing seasons inspire me, as I celebrate holidays by connecting with food and brainstorming ways to transform beloved dishes into a delightful bowl of ramen.
Collaborating with fellow chefs is another avenue for creativity. Together, we push boundaries to create dishes that represent the past, the present, and of course, the future.
Ramen has so many layers, and every time I’m given the chance to conceive a new bowl, I can channel my ideas onto a blank canvas, allowing me to create culinary art.
How do you balance the idea of being a special occasion destination versus being a place that people feel they can come to for comfort?
The harmony of both elements truly embodies Ramen by Ra. This establishment serves as a haven of comfort while also being the perfect spot for celebrating special occasions. I’ve had the pleasure of meeting individuals from across the globe who share their excitement about dining with me, as well as locals who often join me for a bowl.
As I gained a deeper understanding of my customer base, it became clear just how significant my ramen is to people. The joy that comes with sharing a bowl of ramen is something I cherish and never take for granted. That vibrant energy is infectious, allowing me to cook and create an unforgettable experience unlike any other.
A delightful tidbit related to celebrating special occasions at my restaurant is that on your birthday, you receive your ramen with a birthday candle. It’s a touch of appreciation and celebration from me to you.
Where do you go for a comforting meal? What’s your special occasion destination?
I truly enjoy a comforting meal, and I often prefer dining at restaurants where I have developed friendships with the owners and chefs, as well as the front-of-house and back-of-house teams. There’s a special warmth in hospitality when you know exactly what you want, what to expect, and who is preparing your food.
Some of my favorite spots for comforting meals and special occasions include Raf’s, Fish Cheeks NoHo, Anton’s, The Edge Harlem, Melba’s Harlem, Cuba Restaurant & Rum Bar, Elvis Bar, Vic’s, Rosella, Wu’s Wonton King, and Virginia’s.
How does community, whether in the neighborhood, the industry, or otherwise, play into the success of a restaurant? How has community been a part of your experience?
Community has played a significant role in my journey. Ramen By Ra would not exist without the support of my community.
From the very beginning of my pop-up days, the community was crucial; they consistently showed up and supported me. During the development of Ramen By Ra, I launched a crowdfunding campaign on Kickstarter, and once again, my community rallied behind me, standing by my side at every turn.
Thanks to the kindness of humanity, my dreams became a reality, allowing me to share my creations. I’ve always said that New York fuels my inspiration, my culinary creations, and my creativity. In return, Ramen By Ra is my heartfelt gift to my New York community and beyond.
With so many challenges in the industry right now, many chefs are finding other career paths. What keeps you working in restaurants? What keeps you excited about it?
What drives my work in the food industry is my passion. Food grounds me, hospitality inspires me, and the two are inseparable. I remain excited about this journey because of the allure that food has in bringing people together. During the challenging times of COVID, I was able to manifest a creative brand through my dedication and perseverance.
My journey is distinct, and having the freedom to create in a safe space is truly a gift. I believe that innovative culinary creations are more embraced now than ever before, largely thanks to the influence of social media. We can connect in unprecedented ways, highlighting the importance of diversity and inclusion. As I focus on the next generation, I hope that those who pay close attention to my journey will gain the confidence to forge their own paths.
I often say that while I’m on this journey, the focus isn’t on me; it’s about who comes next and how they will creatively and respectfully push boundaries in the culinary world. I’m grateful to share my story and contribute to making history in this industry.
What are you working on right now that has you excited? Tell us about the move and the new location.
At the moment, I’m focused on bringing the new home of Ramen by Ra to life. After closing my first space, I finally found the right location in the East Village, and it feels like everything I’ve been building since 2020 is converging here. Renovations are underway, and I’m pouring myself into every detail from the layout to the rituals of how guests will experience the space.
This chapter isn’t just about reopening; it’s about creating the next decade of Ramen by Ra. The intimacy will stay, but the design, flow, and menu have all evolved. I’ve gained a little more seating, a to-go window, and new items on the menu. I’ve built a space that feels personal yet intentional — equal parts restaurant, ritual, and story.
I can’t wait to open the doors this fall; to serve ramen that’s thoughtful and inventive. My partner and I are excited to share this next chapter together, and to welcome guests into a space that truly feels like home.
Clay Williams is a Brooklyn-based photographer whose work takes him across the country and beyond, documenting stories of food, culture, and community. Follow him at @ultraclay.
Resy Presents: Portraits of New York
In this series of portraits and interviews, photographer Clay Williams gets to the heart of the ever-changing New York City restaurant scene by capturing the stories of the people behind it.