The One Who Keeps the Book Los Angeles
How to Get Into Pint-Sized Pizza Superstar Pizzeria Sei
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It’s no surprise that Pizzeria Seiis one of Los Angeles’ hardest reservations. Helmed by chef William Joo, who was recently named the 2025 pizza maker of the year by industry gatekeepers 50 Top Pizza, Pizzeria Sei is a celebration of the alchemic magic that can take place when you combine flour and water in just the right way.
Joo’s Tokyo-style Neapolitan pies, with their airy-crisp crusts and unrivaled farmers market toppings, work in two distinct ways: to showcase perfect examples of the classics (like an unbeatable margarita), and the convergence of cuisines that gives Los Angeles its unique culinary style. Case in point: the tingling mala sausage pizza, covered in cilantro blossoms: a must-order pie that seamlessly braids Italian, Mexican, and Chinese cuisines into something distinctly L.A.
Last year, Joo debuted a weekly pizza omakase tasting menu as a platform to test some of his more experimental creations; and later this year, Pizzeria Sei will move to a (much-needed) larger location near Palms. But in the meantime, don’t let the limited seating at the original Sei stand between you and some of the country’s best pizza.
In this installment of The One Who Keeps The Books, we sat down with the pizza master himself for Joo’s tips and tricks for getting a seat at the table, plus his advice on what to order when you finally make it in.
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Resy: How many seats do you have at Pizzeria Sei?
Right now we have about 15 to 26 seats.
How many of those are available to book on Resy versus held for walk-ins?
We keep about 80-85 percent for Resy and the rest for walk-ins.
When do the reservations go live?
Two weeks before the desired day at noon Pacific time. We’ve changed this to make it easier for diners — reservations used to be released late in the evening, but I think it’s just better for the guests now.
How fast do primetime weekend reservations get booked up?
I don’t really look at how fast it goes, but a lot of my friends are always asking me for reservations so I guess that’s good.
If you try to walk in, how long should you expect to wait?
The walk-in waitlist on the weekdays will wait about 45 minutes to an hour and a half. On Saturday and Sunday it’s almost a three hour wait, all day. We try our best to pump the gas as fast as possible, but there’s only so much we can do and this seems to be our limit.
What are your chances of getting in on a walk-in and what’s the best time to try?
You can definitely walk in, but it’s preferable to make a reservation to be honest. If you are going to try to walk in, I’d say opening time (4 p.m.) on weekdays is best. On the weekend a slower time is from 3 to 5 p.m., so give that a try.
Are there any tips or tricks to getting in?
We do try to accommodate phone reservations when people call in, but it’s not always possible.
What’s the order that you wish every first-time guest would make at your restaurant?
I think the mushroom toast with lardo is a good way to start, and then we have two recommendations for pizza: the margherita and the mala sausage from the special menu. I think those two are fun examples of what we like to do. But it really comes down to personal preference, i.e. whether someone likes more complex, plain, or simple flavors, which is a very personal thing.
What’s the best seat in the house and can you request certain seats?
Unless a guest is disabled, we just put you wherever is available.
How many pizzas do you serve a day?
Around 190 pizzas on the weekdays and 450 on Saturday and Sunday.
Your unique Pizza Omakasei experience is entirely different from a normal reservation at Pizzeria Sei. What can guests expect when they book in for this experience?
Guests can expect an omakase of six to seven slices of pizza that showcases all of the different doughs and styles of pizza we make, with a fried pasta (or suppli, as the Romans call it), some salad, and a dessert. I am also using it as a way to work on different doughs for the new location.
To be honest, we lose some money on these events because we’re putting such high quality ingredients into them. From the salt to the pepper, the butter, milk, and cream, everything is the highest quality possible. We order fish from the market in Japan. I make trays of dough and if some proof faster than we want, in the end I will only use the best ones. There can be a little bit of inconsistency on a regular day if we are too busy, but this way, with fewer guests, we can control everything. It’s not for everyone though, as the meal is 2.5 hours. It used to be 10 slices, but that was too much food, and people complained, so I adjusted it. I’m learning as I go right now.
The new location is beautiful and the dining room is at least triple in size. We’re going to be next level because of the new location.— William Joo, Pizzeria Sei
If I want to book the omakase, is that a different process than booking a regular reservation on Resy?
We always post on our Instagram first (usually on Stories) and guests can message us. Then I’ll put it on Resy one week prior for the public.
Is there anything you hope guests consider before visiting the restaurant?
I always wish the expectation was different for our space. Unfortunately our space is small and not right for huge groups. The best way to experience us is as two guests, but of course we like to accommodate up to six guests when we can. The space is so tiny and so it’s also not the best space for small children.
Will that change in the new, upcoming restaurant space?
Yes, the new location is beautiful and the dining room is at least triple in size. We’re going to be next level because of the new location. I will finally have all the equipment I need as well. Currently, we’re using a toaster oven and an induction burner, so we’re pretty limited on the menu. That’s all about to change.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
