Portraits of Philly: Chef and Co-Owner Jesse Ito of Royal Sushi & Izakaya and Dancerobot

Resy: How long have you been working in restaurants? Have you worked in restaurants in other cities?

Jesse Ito: For 22 years, since I was 14. I began as a dishwasher at my parent’s restaurant, Fuji, which was in New Jersey right outside of Philly. It’s the only other restaurant I worked at before opening Royal. My father trained me.

What makes the food scene in Philadelphia different? How does it stand out?

A big majority of Philly residents are from the area, either the city or surrounding suburbs. It’s not a transient city where people are constantly in and out. That’s why we have the most fervent sports fans — go Birds — and a strong community of chefs and diners. As a chef, it’s beneficial to understand your target audience and connect with them. Regulars are critical for success.

What are you excited about eating and drinking right now? Where are you going out when you have a night off? Whose work is inspiring you?

I just got back from Japan and Los Angeles. What stood out to me in Japan was a dedication to fundamentals: focusing on ingredients and execution. My dinner at Den in Tokyo was probably the most inspiring meal I’ve had in years. Zaiyu Hasegawa is a master chef who showcases very traditional Japanese cooking styles through a modern lens. I’ve never felt such genuine hospitality at a restaurant.

Philadelphia is blowing up. There are more than 100 new restaurants set to open in the city this year. How do you think that will change the industry? What do you hope changes from that growth and what do you hope stays the same?

Very large restaurants are opening, and that feels different from prior years. A lot of those are from restaurant groups from outside cities. Philadelphia is no longer considered the underdog, which is awesome.

Still, most restaurants are not full throughout the week. Philly doesn’t have the same population density or economics as some of the bigger cities, so we’ll see how viable the larger restaurants will be longterm.

Competition is healthy and keeps things interesting. I know for me it lights a fire to keep pushing, to be better. So I hope that all of this new growth encourages everyone to keep redefining themselves and step out of their comfort zone. What I hope stays the same is the sense of community among chefs and diners.

What do you think the city needs more of and less of as all this development happens?

Philly needs more live music dining venues and less of the same concepts that get done over and over again.

How do people in the food community show up for one another these days? Where are you seeing the community coming together and how?

In so many different ways: mentorship, companionship, friendship, inspiration, collaboration. As an example that’s coming up, I’m doing a collaboration with chef Nok Suntaranon from Kalaya on March 3 as part of “Chef’s Table’s” dinner series for L.A. Fire Relief. She is a huge friend and supporter of mine. My close chef friends are everything to me. There are so many aspects of our lives that only an industry peer can fully understand. I am so grateful to have such amazing people to lean on.

What are you focusing on right now that has you excited? Anything new in the works?

Dancerobot is opening this summer in Rittenhouse. I’m so excited that Royal’s longtime izakaya chef Justin Bacharach, who is also a close friend, is a partner in the project. He came with me to Japan, and we found so much inspiration for the menu, which will feature Japanese classics like teishoku, katsu curry, omurice, and so much more.