Portraits of Philly: Chef and Owner Andrew DiTomo of Meetinghouse

Resy: How long have you been working in restaurants?

Andrew DiTomo: I have been working in the industry for about 20 years. I started when I was 14 washing dishes and bussing tables in the neighborhood I grew up in, Overbrook.

Have you worked in restaurants in other cities?

I mainly have worked in Philly, but have spent time working in Austin at a few really fun restaurants and then in Italy working at an agriturismo just outside of Lucca. But ultimately I came back to Philly to grow my career because it’s home.

What makes the food scene in Philadelphia different? How does it stand out?

I dont know if there are any big differences from other cities, but, I do think the industry community has grown exponentially and has become vast from when I was a young cook. And you know what, I think the DIY, small, ad hoc nature of the restaurant scene here is what sets it apart a bit. The humble work ethic of Philly really comes through in our scene and it’s something I have always loved.

What are you excited about eating and drinking right now? Where are you going out when you have a night off? Whose work is inspiring you?

Café Nhan forever! I’m not telling any secrets here and everyone knows it, but Cafe Nhan is one of my all time favorites. What Andrew [Dinh Vo] and his mom [Nhan Vo] do there on a daily basis is so inspiring and humble. The cooking there is so rich with authenticity and comfort. Its an incredibly important restaurant in Philadelphia.

And on the other side of that is Parc, I’m there often. I love a lot about that place, but mostly it’s because it’s very consistent and simple and I have always admired Stephen Starr’s projects as a young guy growing up in this city.

And Lastly, Dante & Luigi’s, in my neighborhood. I like to think I’m a regular there now. The lasagna there is one of the greatest lasagnas I’ve ever had. It’s just delicious. You know, there was a moment in my career when I was younger, I would want to pick apart every dish to know what’s going on and what their secrets are. And now I’m just like, “Nah, I don’t care,” because I don’t need to know. I want Dante & Luigi’s to always have this and keep their secrets, and I don’t need to know them. I believe in the magic of just enjoying dining out, to sit in the front room at my favorite table, in one of the most beautiful dining rooms in Philadelphia.

Philadelphia is blowing up. There are more than 100 new restaurants set to open in the city this year. How do you think that will change the industry? What do you hope changes from that growth and what do you hope stays the same?

With all the new action coming to this city I hope Philly holds on to its strong work ethic and blunt honesty. I think Philadelphians dining out enjoy straightforward and quality cooking and service that matches. And the industry has done a great job in giving folks just that in all the different dining styles this city has to offer. You know what, I’m kind of a believer in saying that a rising tide lifts all boats, and I’m really excited for all these places to open and leave their mark on the city.

What do you think the city needs more of and less of as all this development happens?

I think the biggest thing we need more of is a focus on hospitality and service in this city. Our media is so food and chef focused, which is amazing, but I think keeping a keen eye on the beautiful hospitality and service in Philadelphia should be just as important. As the industry grows, so should the focal point of the writing.

How do people in the food community show up for one another these days? Where are you seeing the community coming together and how?

I have personally felt a ton of support from my friends and community while trying to learn how to run a small business. Like Matt Cahn [owner] from Middle Child Clubhouse. He’s a very dear friend of mine and he knows what he’s doing with his brand and its success, and he runs really great restaurants. I love that I can pick his brain all the time, and he’s willing to answer those questions.

I worked for Marc Vetri for years, and it’s a beautiful thing to be able to call on him and all his wisdom. He has opened so many restaurants over the years and has seen a lot in this industry. As a small, single restaurant operator, to be able to pick his brain and ask him for advice is something I don’t take lightly and am deeply thankful for.

What are you focusing on right now that has you excited? Anything new in the works?

I spent a career cooking in, opening or running Italian restaurants for folks and I went and worked in Italy as well. So I always kind of have, in the back of my head, this dream of opening an Italian spot one day, and I’ve gotten closer at some points and further away at other points. And then there is this constant nagging need I feel to simplify and clarify what my food is.

And then, more importantly, there’s Meetinghouse. I want to refine that restaurant and make it the best version of what it is. And I think part of that is taking a good look at our team and recognizing how proud I am of the folks that I work with, be it my partners Marty [West] and Colin [McFadden] or our chef de cuisine Ethan Sobin. Our tiny pub ticks along because of everyone in it who makes it a special place. It’s a great privilege to do this work especially with great people.

Resy Philadelphia editor Deanna Ting contributed to this article.