Portraits of Philly: Restaurant Operator James Smith

Resy: How long have you been working in restaurants? Have you worked in restaurants in other cities?

James Smith: I started working restaurants in early 2011. I was a college kid who needed some cash and a friend had a gig available. I found my way behind the bar pretty quickly as I figured that was (a) where the money was at the time and (b) where I actually had the most fun chatting and being in service.

I’ve only worked in Philadelphia, and it’s a great place to cut your teeth. From there I got involved with Vernick Food & Drink in 2015 and eventually made my way up to general manager. I feel like I got into the food scene here as it was starting to really show out. So many small restaurants on the scene. I was pretty lucky to see the city in that light and come up in the industry.

What makes the food scene in Philadelphia different? How does it stand out?

I’ve eaten out in L.A., New Orleans, Chicago, Paris, New York, Miami, etc. I would say Philly has always stood out for outstanding chefs and bartenders who, by any rights, could be stars in any of these other major cities, but have chosen Philadelphia to put down or return to their roots. Also, every city you go to has a Philly-themed bar haha. The people at all the best spots here know each other, have worked with each other, and 100% want to support each other and see each other win.

Every time an award list comes out, Philly is over-the-top proud of fellow Philly restaurants. I think part of what makes it stand out as well are the Philadelphia local patrons. Philly people brag about Philly everywhere they go. Whether that’s about sports or sandwiches, the local support is LOUD. And we love when a guest we haven’t seen in a while comes back and tells us about the places they’ve been eating. We know there’s abundance and talent everywhere. Philly is proud.

What are you excited about eating and drinking right now? Where are you going out when you have a night off? Whose work is inspiring you?

I have so many places I go and or really want to try. My wife loves Mawn so I gotta get there. India Rodriguez, the chef de cuisine at Friday Saturday Sunday is a super talented chef and I love everything she cooks. The work by David Suro and the entire Suro family is some of the most inspiring in Philly on the supply side of things, and I hope Tequilas returns soon.

Currently, I spend a lot of time at El Mezcal Cantina in Point Breeze. I bring the family and we eat great Mexican food matched with an incredible Mezcal selection. Truly a neighborhood gem, I want nothing but the most success for Oscar and his team. My three-year-old daughter literally runs and hugs the servers whenever we go there. Oscar’s hospitality is outstanding and is proof that hospitality has everything to do with people first.

I also really want to make my way to Second Daughter. And finally, I cannot WAIT until Omar [Tate] and Cybille [St. Aude-Tate’s] reincarnation of Honeysuckle returns.

Philadelphia is blowing up. There are more than 100 new restaurants set to open in the city this year. How do you think that will change the industry? What do you hope changes from that growth and what do you hope stays the same?

Change is always a two-sided coin. I think the industry is tougher than ever and you need to have a clear vision and a strategy of execution to survive. It is a cutthroat business at its core, with slim margins. How do you get people to invest in your concept? And I’m not talking about money.

I hope the feeling of camaraderie only grows. I hope there’s always a barstool for our neighbors and an extra spot for somebody’s first time to Philly. I hope one day we get to celebrate even more lifelong restaurants that have been running strong for 20, 25, 30 years. For all the new restaurants, the right ones will always find a place.

What do you think the city needs more of and less of as all this development happens?

Somebody bring back Little Pete’s! I will pay all my monies for a 3 a.m. diner experience. You ran into everyone, from bartenders after the club to the mayor (literally) at Little Pete’s. C’mon! Somebody make this happen.

I think that while there will always be a place for ultra high-end special occasion dining and memorable wow moments, the continued effort to invest in smaller projects is just as important. Those restaurants are neighborhood watering holes and gathering places. We should be excited to travel to a new neighborhood to go find Vietnamese coffee or Venezuelan arepas or just a good burger and fries. There’s nothing wrong with that, and sometimes food hype can get mixed up with checking boxes off your list, without also slowing down and enjoying the people and neighborhoods and cultures that go with it. Philly has done a good job of that so far I think and I hope that doesn’t disappear.

What are you focusing on right now that has you excited? Tell us more about the new project.

I’m excited to be focused on a new project and continuing my career in a new role. I’m currently working on a project with some people I’ve been lucky enough to call colleagues, friends, and mentors.