Six Dishes To Order At Madeira Park in Poncey-Highland
Walking through the door of Madeira Park on a Wednesday evening, the excitement was palpable. The packed dining room — tables filled with people of all ages, couples and friends alike — loudly buzzed. Wine bars are rare in Atlanta, but if the crowd at Madeira Park, which opened in February, proves anything, it’s that Atlantans are hungry (or thirsty?) for one.
Located on the ground floor of Otto’s Apartment Hotel (formerly the Highland Inn), Madeira Park is a collaboration between Miller Union’s co-owners, James Beard award-winning Steven Satterfield and Michelin-recognized Neal McCarthy, and Tim Willard of the pop-up Dive Wine. After years of planning, Madeira Park is finally here, and we recently sat down with Satterfield to chat through the menu’s highlights.
At Madeira Park, a reference to the neighborhood’s former name, the design firm AI3 created a warm, convivial space. Orb lighting fixtures infuses the square-shaped dining room with warmth along with soft, earth tones and dried floral accents. An enlarged Sanborn map depicting Copenhill, the neighborhood where the Carter Center now stands, creates a cool sense of place. In the warmer months, Satterfield anticipates that the front patio with a walk-up window will become a hotspot. “There are drink rails that face the street, so you can hang out and just watch all the goings-on, the foot traffic, the people driving by,” he adds.
When it comes to defining Madeira Park as a wine bar, it starts, of course, with the wine. There’s serious wine talent involved, too: co-owner McCarthy is a certified sommelier who prefers wine from small producers, while Willard completed the Advanced Sommelier course through the Court of Master Sommeliers before working in wine distribution for several years and is known for finding rare vintages. Meanwhile, Jade Palmer serves as general manager as well as a sommelier.
“We have a really big by-the-glass list, about 25 wines by the glass,” says Satterfield, and there are about 100 bottles. While natural wines aren’t off limits, the emphasis here is on classics, with a mix of Old World and New World wines. Of course, there are fortified wines, too, like madeira and sherry. For the wine geeks, there’s a handwritten IYKYK “wine book” handwritten by Palmer, filled with rare wines (hint: chat with the somm if you want to take a peek).
The tightly curated food menu keeps things casual with shareable plates. It’s a choose-your-own-adventure of dishes that naturally pair well with wine, like ham and cheese beignets and marinated olives. “If you come in and get a table and you only want to eat a couple of snacks and have a glass of wine, that’s fine,” says Satterfield. “If you want to sit there and have three courses and drink a few bottles, that’s also fine.” The dining room also inspires socializing with large communal tables, giving it the feel of a friend’s kitchen.
Here’s what to try at Madeira Park.
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1. Charcuterie
Any wine bar worth its salt has charcuterie and cheese, and Madeira Park is no exception. When possible, Satterfield works with local purveyors like Spotted Trotter and Pine Street Market or sources from thoughtfully chosen international producers. If you’re not sure how to pair your meats and cheeses, just ask your server, who will happily make a suggestion (like pairing the thick and creamy Brillat-Savarin with spicy Spanish chorizo). Each meat and cheese comes with preserves, sourdough, crackers, and pickled veggies.
2. Pommes frites
Cut thick and fried to a golden perfection, the fries are served by the heaping bowlful. The house aioli, made with eggs, lemon, dijon mustard, and grapeseed oil, makes them sing. Perfect as a side order or for snacking while going deep on the wine list, try the frites with the house bubbles, an Arnaud Lambert cremant blanc.
3. Frenchy 8-minute farm egg
The French egg looks deceptively simple — don’t be fooled. Akin to a deviled egg, each half is dressed with herb aioli, maldon salt, and black pepper. A house-made potato chip conceals an anchovy. It’s a briny, crunchy bite. “It’s a fun thing to eat,” says Satterfield. Unsurprisingly, small plates are a strength at Madeira Park — look out for the tartine of toasted bread slathered with butter and topped with luscious anchovies, pickled onions and radish.
4. Potato gnocchi
To make the pillowy gnocchi, the chefs roasted potatoes and rice them while still hot. Then, they’re gently folded with egg, parmesan, and flour until just combined — this deftness gives them their airy texture. The gnocchi are served in a fontina sauce, reminiscent of cheese fondue, made with white wine, cream, and cheese. The gnocchi are currently served with kale but the sauce and vegetables may change throughout the seasons.
5. Poulet Rouge
After 5:00 p.m., large format plates (like the aforementioned gnocchi) become available with the poulet rouge among the standouts. Neither of the proteins are full entrees, “but, there’s a little sauce and a vegetable of the moment,” says Satterfield. The roasted chicken is served alongside baby cabbages from Snapfinger Farm, which are also roasted and, as a result, caramelized and nutty.
6. Madeira Park cocktail
The must-try cocktail is, naturally, made with madeira. Specifically, a 10-year Serial madeira from Enrique & Enrique. A simple combination of madeira, tonic water, club soda, expressed orange, and rosemary oil lets the fortified wine shine. And while the establishment’s M.O. is wine-focused, the bar’s cocktail offerings also impress.
Lia Picard is a lifestyle writer who has called Atlanta home for more than a decade. She writes about food, travel, and design for publications like the New York Times, Travel + Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, and Atlanta magazine. When Lia’s not writing, she can be found on an Atlanta adventure with her husband and daughter. Follow her on Instagram. Follow Resy, too.
