Opening during a pandemic is never easy, but this tiny outfit in a Koreatown strip mall has made waves with its big flavors and fun fusion mashups. Chef Myungbin Min, who grew up in the South Bay and worked at places like Kali and Little Sister, is a master of experimentation. Some of his creations, like mandu with doenjang Bolognese or kimchi tagliatelle, are revelations. Why no one else has thought about adding marinated bulgogi to a super-cheesy risotto is astonishing — because it’s really, really good. This is more than contemporary fusion cuisine; it’s L.A. on a plate.