Everything You Need to Know About Petit Pomeroy and Its Classic French Bistro Fare
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They say if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Which is why when the opportunity arose to bring its successfully charming and boisterous French bistro, Pomeroy, to the city from its base in Winnetka, Ballyhoo Hospitality did just that.
This time, it’s a little smaller and a little less boisterous, but still offering the same amount of excellent fare you’d expect from a French haunt. You have everything from escargot and mussels to steak frites and profiteroles. And this one is tucked away above Sophia Steak on the second floor of One Chicago at the crossroads of River North and the Gold Coast, creating a welcome respite from the bustle below.
So let’s raise a glass of Champagne — or perhaps a French 75 — and get into the details about what you need to know about Petit Pomeroy before embarking on your own French-accented adventure.
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Step inside a little slice of Paris
Walk in off the street through the revolving door into Sophia Steak and head upstairs. As you ascend, the vibe quickly changes. French art posters adorn the walls, red and gold abound, vintage candelabras drip with candles, and more quaint touches lead you into the main dining room. Here, you find red leather seats and cozy banquettes, warm blond wood paneling, gold patinated wallpaper, glimmering mirrors, and plates featuring cute chef caricatures that give a pop of whimsy to the room. There’s a coziness as soon as you step inside, further enhanced by the warm service and, of course, the food.
Start with an array of shellfish
After saying bonsoir (OK, really they just say hello because, well, we’re in Chicago) and welcoming you to the restaurant, your server will ask if you’d like a warm baguette and butter. The answer, of course, yes. Follow that with some seafood: Order a mix of East and West Coast oysters, or perhaps a pot of steamed mussels in a warm bath of Chablis, cream, and fine herbs. Maybe aromatic escargot is your thing, or you could go big with the “petit” seafood tower, comprising a dozen oysters, colossal tiger prawn cocktail, and tuna tartare prepared Nicoise style. In any scenario, you win.
The menu is decidedly classic French
A number of modern French restaurants have opened in the city in the last couple of years. Don’t expect nouveau flourishes here: it’s as classic French as it gets. While some new French inspired restaurants veer slightly off path with global influences, Pomeroy stays true to its bistro ethos. And that’s why we like it.
Dishes arrive as you expect: molten French onion soup with a gooey layer of Gruyere, tender roast chicken with golden crunchy skin, and a perfect medium rare steak frites in a rich red wine sauce with a heaping pile of crispy fries. Other frite-adjacent dishes include a lobster roll, poulet Cajun with beurre blanc, and naturally, a burger royale, served on a brioche bun with creamy butterkase (literally: butter cheese), caramelized onions, remoulade, and pickles. We appreciate that the menu isn’t trying too hard to impress; that’s the true Parisian way.
Craving a few courses? There’s a prix fixe for that.
Priced at $48, this is one of the better budget dinners in the city, allowing you to choose one item each from three courses (starter, main, and dessert). And these aren’t some throwaway dishes. Each course highlights some of their best: French onion soup or Bayonne ham croquettes with gruyere and raclette fondue, trout amandine or steak frites, crème brûlée or chocolate pot de crème. More focused options, easier decisions.
The best seat might be …
When you’re looking for a true bistro experience, you may not find a better spot than at the bar. Slide into one of the red leather-cushioned stools at the black granite-topped bar and this becomes your own personal Cheers. Friendly bartenders are ready to serve the entire menu at the bar. Order that martini or glass of Burgundy and settle in, because what really makes this spot special is your view. Towering pane windows let in the golden hour glow and the twinkle of surrounding buildings while you admire a piece of Chicago history. Your view is of Holy Name Cathedral, built in 1875, home to countless cardinals and a collection of bullet holes, courtesy of the 1926 assassination of North Side Gang leader and Al Capone rival Hymie Weiss (they’re still visible today). It all adds to the ambiance of a meal here.
And before you go, cap off the bistro bonanza with a glass of Cognac, Armagnac, or Sauternes, the thick, sweet dessert wine from Bordeaux. We did say it’s classically French, didn’t we?
Ari Bendersky, a lifestyle journalist specializing in food, wine, spirits, and travel, is the author of Something Glorious with Ari Bendersky on Substack and the host of the docu-series Family Meal. Follow him on Instagram. Follow Resy, too.
