Letter of Recommendation Los Angeles
How I Fell in Love With Doto
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Even in a town overloaded with stellar restaurants, sometimes I still have no idea where I want to eat: I may have already had kabobs, tacos, and dumplings in the span of a week, and can’t decide what I’m in the mood for next. Call it what you will: paradox of choice, analysis paralysis, or just plain indecisiveness. On more than one occasion, Doto has been the antidote to this particular conundrum. It hasn’t even been open for six months, but it’s already worked its way into my regular rotation. And while it’s gotten some modest media coverage, it still feels like a hidden gem — for now.
Doto is a part of a new wave of California-leaning izakayas, but one that blurs cuisine lines more than most of its peers. Browsing the menu here feels like a breath of fresh air. It’s not another fancy taco joint, not another Cal-Ital trattoria: it’s a restaurant for people who love food but are burned out on categorizing it.
The menu is chef-driven yet casual, offering a variety of dishes that I perpetually crave: fish tacos, patty melts, crudo, fried chicken, hand rolls, and a spectacular Comte burger, all done up with little unexpected twists. Some crowd-pleasers, yes, but interpreted by a Japanophile chef with serious professional chops (more on that in a minute). Influences also nod to Spain, the Mediterranean, the U.K., China, and of course, Southern California.
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The setting is equally as inclusive as the menu: a small, light-drenched indoor cafe with a wooden bar, booth seating, and some floating two-tops, plus a tranquil backyard patio complete with hillside views. During the day, you’ll spot freelancers on laptops, small groups, and solo readers. At night, the vibe is livelier, amping up the sushi options with dishes like uni handrolls and hamachi crudo. But expect the unexpected here: a char siu handroll, fish and chips, and roasted summer squash all reside on the same menu as the substantial Japanese offerings. Personally, I love it when a restaurant keeps me on my toes.
It’s not another fancy taco joint, not another Cal-Ital trattoria: it’s a restaurant for people who love food but are burned out on categorizing it.
U.K.-born chef-owner Jared Dowling made the rounds at impressive fine-dining restaurants in both London and New York, including a stint at Koya under Yess Restaurant‘s Junya Yamasaki. Heavily inspired by the “nose to tail” ethos of the legendary chef Fergus Henderson, Dowling infused a similar P.O.V. as executive chef at The Fat Radish in New York before heading out west and working at various restaurants in Venice. He opened Edgemar in Santa Monica last summer, while at almost the same time, a friend passed over the lease on the former Jewel space in Virgil Village. A few months later, Doto was born.
“Doto is my passion project,” Dowling says. “I want my kids to grow up in this restaurant.”
In this city, few restaurants offer both all-day menus and more ambitious nighttime fare under one roof. The broad scope here makes Doto a go-to for almost any dining need or occasion: low-key date night, friend catch-up, early morning breakfast spot, etc., but it’s thoughtful and cheffy enough to impress just about anyone (including all my snarky food-writer friends). Whenever you go, the salted caramel ice cream garnished with furikake is an absolute must order.
When it comes to drinks, Doto offers not one but two happy hours (the first from 3-5:30 p.m. and the second after 9). Choose from a menu of sake and aperitivo cocktails as well as natural wines and local beers. Plus, there’s discounted bites like their fried chicken with burnt honey and sesame, tempura fish tacos, and pan con tomate.
I love a casual spot that still lets me be a food snob in the most unassuming way possible. I can always find something to love at Doto, no matter what time of day, and I suspect you will, too.
