How Sal’s Trattoria Became the Quintessential Neighborhood Italian Spot
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Sal’s Trattoria opened in Lakeview as a humble, family-friendly Italian joint. Eight years later, it’s a destination that’s often booked out weeks in advance. In a city rife with neighborhood Italian spots, it takes a certain something to draw diners from all over town. So what is it about the unassuming Sal’s that makes it stand out?
The answer boils down to a time-tested formula for success: keep it simple. Everyone wants a go-to spot that works equally well for date night as it does for a multigenerational family meal; all the better if it has oversized pepper grinders, vintage framed pictures, and a crowd-pleasing menu of consistently delicious Italian-American favorites. On those fronts and more, Sal’s delivers.
The focus here is partially on Northern Italian cuisine (think rigatoni Bolognese), with a mixture of Italian-American classics (chicken parm, trout piccata) for good measure. But there are surprises, too. Seasonality is baked in to the menu, and twists on those classics keep regulars coming back. Here’s what else you need to know before heading over to neighborhood favorite Sal’s.
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All the classics are covered.
The menu changes seasonally, and Sal’s always has specials worth trying. But there are some mainstays you can always rely on. Managing partner Preston Owen recommends starting with the meatballs, made with Wisconsin veal and prime beef with garlic, oregano, and baguette crumbs. Also in the antipasti section are grilled calamari, served with capers, tomatoes, and lemon — a refreshing deviation from the usual fried preparation. (You can order the calamari over pasta, too.)
The pasta section features three signature and three rotating seasonal dishes. The noodles themselves are sourced from Avanza Pasta in Evanston, with the exception of the gnocchi, which is made in house. While the classically-prepared rigatoni Bolognese is a best-seller, the fettuccine carbonara, topped with crispy pancetta and an egg yolk, is something of a sleeper hit. Of the seasonal offerings, the spaghetti alla Nerano stands out for summer, loaded with zucchini cooked into a creamy sauce with aged provolone, white wine, and basil. (With zucchini season ramping up, now would be the time to stray from your red sauce roots.)
The pasta is great. But save room for mains.
If you’re one of those people that usually skips the entrees at an Italian restaurant in favor of several pasta dishes (guilty), rethink your strategy here. The chicken parm at Sal’s is a clear favorite: breaded chicken breast sauteed and topped with marinara and parm, served with tagliatelle in lieu of pasta. The rainbow trout piccata is another mainstay — two crispy filets atop artichoke hearts and sundried tomato in a well-balanced lemon sauce, scattered with crispy capers. Pair it with a side of housemade mushroom and truffle butter gnocchi for best results.
If, after all that, you can muster the strength for dessert, know this: The gelato is made at Sal’s sister restaurant, Butcher & the Burger in Lincoln Park. Chocolate, vanilla, and a rotating seasonal flavor are always on the menu. Add a shot of espresso and turn it into an affogato, if you’re feeling frisky.
The space is storied.
The building that houses Sal’s was built about 100 years ago. Since then, it has been a funeral parlor, an accordion school, and a combination liquor/grocery store (back when the roads outside were still dirt, according to an old photo Owen found).
Most notably, in the 1960s and ‘70s, the building housed a brothel called Le Pink Pussy Cat. Today, a cocktail of the same name pays homage to this history, featuring Tequila, St. Germain, passionfruit and lime juice. One of the most popular offerings isn’t even on the menu: the espresso martini, here of the creamy variety, made with Kahlua, Bailey’s, chocolate liqueur and vodka, mixed with Caffe Umbria espresso. “People just caught on,” Owen said, who says he finds himself drinking at least one a week.
The wine list is almost entirely Italy-focused, with bottles from all around the boot. The servers are ready to guide you, if you’re not fluent on the Italian varietals. Similarly, the digestivi skew Italian, with plenty of amari options, grappa, and a housemade limoncello for good measure.
Can’t snag a reservation online? Try calling.
Like most restaurants, Sal’s is packed from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m, and is often busy with families with young children before then. If you want to snag one of the restaurant’s 55 seats during that prime-time window, Owen recommends making a reservation at least a week ahead of time. Outside of that, there’s more flexibility, particularly for tables of two. “Call the restaurant and put your name in, or show up and wait,” he said. “We can’t slip big parties in, but we usually have a little wiggle room for smaller parties.”
The first-come, first-serve bar, with 13 seats, serves the full menu as well. There are a couple of high-tops in the bar area, which are enviably positioned near the huge windows, providing a full view of the restaurant and lively bar, plus the street.
You’re more likely to get a seat in the summer.
Come patio season, Sal’s doubles in capacity, thanks to patio seating that stretches across two sides of the restaurant and seats another 50 people. You can’t reserve a seat at the patio, but the additional seats make it easier to get a table on a usually jam-packed summer night. If all the seats are full, grab a drink at the bar and enjoy the scene while you wait. In the summer, the restaurant’s tall, arched windows are swung open, casting a new feel to the place that’s as open and breezy as an Italian piazza.
Ally Marotti is an award-winning journalist covering food and restaurants. Her work has appeared in the Chicago Tribune, Crain’s Chicago Business, and other publications. Follow Resy for more great stories.
