Welcome to Taste Matters, a recurring Resy column by Mahira Rivers, a writer, critic, and former anonymous Michelin Guide inspector. In this column, she tackles the questions that help define restaurants, and taste, today: Who sets the standards for deliciousness in a quickly changing world? How has the universe of great dining expanded? And what do diners expect in an era of ever-diversified taste?
Header illustration by Jeannie Phan