Everything to Know About Bananas in the East Village

1. What’s in a name?

Plenty. Bananas is a project that showcases the complexities and nuances of Asian cuisine — and identity — in the American landscape. Each of the dishes highlights the commonalities among Asian and non-Asian cuisines in inventive ways.

Growing up Chinese American in Queens, Ng was often referred to as a “banana.” The old term is used amongst some Asian Americans to describe an outwardly Asian-appearing person (who is considered “yellow” on the outside) with internal characteristic tendencies that might be considered more associated with a white person (“white” on the inside). With this restaurant, Ng wants to reclaim the term and recast his Chinese American culture in a new light.

“The name is a play on words. We wanted to showcase non-traditional Asian food in a fun, creative way,” says Ng.

2. It’s led by a duo of industry veterans.

Executive chef Kyaw Lwin and managing partner Chris Ng have spent years working in restaurants. Originally immigrating from Myanmar, Lwin moved to the city a decade ago, working in a variety of restaurants, many of them Japanese, before landing at Shmoné, the Michelin-starred Israeli restaurant from chef Eyal Shani.

Ng, a born-and-bred New Yorker, worked his way through the ranks of front-of-house restaurant service, starting as a busboy at Bond Street. “Ever since I worked at [Bond Street], I really fell in love with the industry,” says Ng. He eventually studied at the French Culinary Institute (now rebranded to International Culinary Center at the Institute of Culinary Education) and completed the Classic Culinary Arts program. Then, while working as a server at Blue Ribbon, Ng rose through the ranks and eventually joined the opening team for Blue Ribbon Izakaya.

A few years later, Lwin and Ng were introduced by a mutual industry friend and bonded over their shared dreams of opening a restaurant. “Chris asked me, ‘What are you going to do if you have several months to live?’ and I said, ‘I’m definitely going to open a restaurant.'”

3. Come for the menu, stay for the vibes.

Ng and Lwin partnered with Shoucair Design, a New York-based design firm that has worked on restaurants like Kokomo, Spicy Moon, and Brooklyn Chop House.

“We want the space to be clean, warm, and open while also having character with thoughtful details,” says Ng. The 70-seat space is inviting with cove lighting, banana charms on display, and whimsical wallpaper with banana motifs. And in the bathroom, expect a banana shrine with disco balls and more.

4. About that menu …

To experience the vibrancy and diverse cultures of New York, look no further than the menu at Bananas. It’s an homage to Big Apple classics, combining modern American and Asian fare.

“When thinking through the concept, we knew we wanted to share our experiences through food — elements from American and Asian cuisine,” says Ng. “We didn’t want our name to be cookie-cutter either and thought the phrase ‘Bananas’ would help send that message.”

“Our menu is for people who want to try new things,” continues Ng. “We hope that these dishes make a lasting impression on people.”

Starters include a miso Caesar salad topped with candied anchovies and crispy ramen noodles, yellowtail crudo with citrus dressing, and sake steamed mussels with fresh herbs.

Char siu with caramelized bananas was inspired by the roast pork that Ng’s family would get on trips to visit his grandparents in Chinatown. “It’s my comfort food and I was looking for a way to make char siu a bit more interesting and unique,” says Ng. Incorporating bananas to the dish, Ng and Lwin were inspired by the jibarito, a Puerto Rican sandwich made with flattened green plantain instead of bread.

Bananas’ chopped cheese krapow was inspired by late-night outings fueled by New York’s much-loved bodega sandwich. Their version includes white cheddar on a brioche bun.

Additional entrees include the dynamite fried rice, which is topped with broiled masago and white mushrooms. The dish pays tribute to Ng’s days working at Blue Ribbon Sushi. “When the masago is being browned, they explode, causing this dynamite effect,” Ng explains.

New York isn’t the only place where the Bananas team found inspiration: The shrimp wonton etouffee came about after Ng paid a visit to another exceptional culinary town: New Orleans. “I went to this restaurant, Mr. B’s Bistro, with a barbecue shrimp dish that had an incredibly rich broth and strong seafood flavor. I loved it so much that I ordered it twice.”

For Ng’s version, instead of using traditional shrimp and rice for an etouffee, there are shrimp wontons in an etouffee broth as a way to “play off the Bananas theme,” Ng explains.

5. Don’t sleep on the sake- and soju-based cocktails.

Helmed by Dania Daniella Kim, the beverage menu is inspired by Americana and “reflective of our tongue-in-cheek personality,” she says.

The signature PB&J cocktail — also available in milkshake form — is made with banana makgeolli, spice soju, and grape syrup. The selection of classic cocktails is all sake- and soju-based and come with their own creative twists, like a martini with lemon verbena infused sake alongside notes of yuzu and sage; highball with black tea soju sweetened with apple syrup and sake; and mojito with spiced shochu and muddled Asian herbs.

And to help with the colder temperature, the sujeonggwa hot toddy is a boozy version of a traditional Korean cinnamon ginger tea.

Craft beers and natural wines are also available.

Bananas opens daily at 5 p.m. and closes at 11 p.m. from Sunday to Wednesday, and midnight from Thursday to Saturday.

Resy Editors Deanna Ting and Tae Yoon contributed to this article.

Abena Anim-Somuah is a 2023 James Beard award recipient for emerging voice in broadcast media. She’s also the host of Cherrybombe’s podcast, The Future of Food is You, where she interviews women making a mark in the food world.