Ernest, Marlena, Abacá, and More: S.F. Dining’s Best in 2021

One of the best new restaurants in San Francisco in our humble opinion, we fell for Chef Brandon Rice’s market-driven, globally inspired fare at his restaurant Ernest. Whether we went a la carte or let the kitchen cook for us, we were treated to a different experience every time, leaving always full, always satiated, and always ready to come back for more. The one constant, a menu mainstay we always look forward to? Ikura-topped beef tartare hand rolls. Yes, please, and thank you.

Editor’s note: As of Sept. 29, 2023, Marlena has rebranded into a new concept, Foliage SF.

It’s been wonderful to watch the evolution of Marlena — the food, cooking, and space continues to get better and better. Together, wife-and-husband duo Serena and David Fisher cook up a beautiful, elegant, and affordable four-course tasting menu. No wonder the restaurant was awarded a Michelin Star, and Serena was crowned Pastry Chef of The Year by Esquire magazine. But don’t take our word or accolades for it — find out why for yourself.

Sometimes the good ole pandemic pivot can result in some creative (and delicious) results.  A prime example is Fish & Bird, who introduced an outdoors-only DIY yakiniku set-up earlier this year, where customers could grill plump prawns and marbled meats themselves over slow-burning binchotan. This was easily one of the favorite experiences and favorite restaurants we enjoyed this year.

Chef Francis Ang’s smart takes on Filipino fare at his restaurant Abacá won us over this year. Things like scallop pancit with chewy homemade noodles and lumpia lettuce wraps with apple ketchup makes classics modern. Of course, all of his desserts are worth saving stomach space for (he started off his culinary career as a pastry chef in fine-dining restaurants).

Sometimes we forget that beautiful wine country in Sonoma is only an hour away from The City. But then we think about Valley, and that gives us all the reason we need to make the great escape. A wine-filled brunch here before a full day of wine tasting is a good move, and both the French toast and soft, fluffy, mortadella-filled sandwiches are requisite and help you ease into it the glory of it all.

Sometimes we need a good splurge — a little treat-ourselves situation (especially these days). We wouldn’t want to do it anywhere else but at the great Chef Kim Alter’s Nightbird. Five courses and fives bites feature the best protein and produce Northern California has to offer. Wine pairings are optional, but a trip next door to the Linden Room for a nightcap is absolutely required.

We need The Morris duck at least once a year, but the hospitality and energy of somm/owner Paul Einbund is something we could use more of always (not to mention his Chartreuse Slushies and wonderful wine pairings).

Here’s the thing about Nari: every time we visit, we want to eat everything. Pim Techamuanvivit and Meghan Clark’s fiery modern Thai fare is just too good. Luckily, this is one of the spots where the chef’s pick is an option — they’ll guide you to the best of hits of the menu, and portion and pace properly so you can enjoy more things, because you know, variety is the spice of life, etc.

We love to lounge at Brandon Jew’s vibey Moongate Lounge and sip on cocktails filled with fruits and flowers and spices and spirits inspired by the seasons. There’s really nothing else like it in The City, with its gorgeous balcony and sexy red velvet booths. Best enjoyed pre or post Mister Jiu’s dinner.

This was a year we all needed a fancy cocktail (or three). Thankfully, Chef Nelson German (of Top Chef fame) was here for us with his Afro-Latin cocktail lounge Sobre Mesa. Its citrus-forward namesake drink has two types of rum and is available by the pitcher, and tapas like steak suya empanadas and roasted bone marrow with spicy herby jerk chimichurri helps keep us going for that extra drink.