The November Hit List: Semma, Kaiseki Room by Yamada, Sofreh Cafe, and More

Semma, a complete reboot of Rahi in the West Village, is the newest venture from Dhamaka and Adda’s Roni Mazumdar and chef Chintan Pandya, who have made it their personal mission to change our perceptions about what Indian cuisine in America can be. This time, they’ve enlisted Vijay Kumar, the chef behind California’s Michelin-starred Rasa, who’s highlighting dishes inspired by his native Tamil Nadu and other regions of southern India. Think lip-smacking Long Island snails with ginger and tamarind; a crisp, savory gunpowder dosa you’ll be thinking about long after your meal; and a showstopping Dungeness crab for two.

If it feels like there are more modern Mexican restaurants in New York than ever before, that’s because there are. (Sobre Masa, Tacos Güey, All Things Good, Claro, Cosme, and others come to mind.) But among them, Aldama is a standout — and not just for its vegan mole negro. It’s the thoughtfulness of the food being put forth by chef Gerardo Alcaraz. It’s also the atmosphere, including the late-night live music and DJs. And it’s the mezcals, of which there are many. It’s the whole package, really.

If you’ve ever waited for a table at this Park Slope paean to pasta and homestyle Italian cooking, you’ll know how agonizing that wait can be, as thoughts of pillowy beet-filled cazunsei or creamy polenta with crispy wild mushrooms run through your mind on repeat. Those waits are now officially over. Al di là now takes reservations. While it’s a perfect place to visit all year round, it’s especially ideal when the air starts to cool, and you’re yearning for real, rib-sticking comfort food. So, what are you waiting for?

Massive molcajetes of aguachile, touched with just a hint of soy sauce. Savory cócteles filled to the brim with succulent pieces of octopus. A taco that gives a whole new meaning to the term surf and turf with its tender pieces of New York strip steak, melted cheese, and shrimp. And a cheerful, mustachioed yellow submarine for a mascot. What’s not to love about this Jackson Heights seafood spot, which has charmed critics and locals alike? And if you’re in the neighborhood, why not make a day or night of it by exploring some of the best Mexican food in the city?

Walk-ins only.

New York has no dearth of incredible omakase and kaiseki specialists, and you can count chef Isao Yamada among the finest. At David Bouley’s Brushstroke, Yamada was known for incorporating modernist French techniques into his courses. Here at his namesake spot, he’s delving even more deeply into the roots of traditional 11-course Japanese kaiseki from start to finish, using the best in-season ingredients he can find, from Hokkaido horsehair crab and Hudson Valley silver trout to olive-fed Sanuki-wagyu and local chanterelles. Whatever you do, save room for dessert: it’s an incredible soy sauce (yes, soy sauce) ice cream topped with truffles that you’ll wish you could devour by the pint.

Hong Thaimee’s homestyle Thai cooking has finally found a permanent home on Houston Street, and there’s no better time to dive into steamy bowls of yum gin ghai (chicken soup) or tuck into a fluffy khai jiaw (omelet), especially when things start to chill up. And for those wanting a little taste of everything, there’s even a tasting menu for two.

Sipping on black Persian tea and snacking on Barbari bread with morsels of whipped Bulgarian feta, butter, and sour cherry preserves — is there a more ideal way to spend an autumn afternoon? This new Bushwick café from the Sofreh team is a showcase for Persian breads and pastries like Yadzi cupcakes topped with saffron-laced frosting and a rose-custard donut that riffs on a sweet pirashki.

Walk-ins only.

Dining at Miss Lily’s is a whole mood, and one we’ve sorely missed for some time. While the Alphabet City location of Miss Lily’s stayed open for the past year-and-a-half, bringing the party to Avenue A, the original Soho location remained closed throughout the pandemic — until now. We, for one, can’t wait to get back at it, and to try some of the new specials dreamt up by chef de cuisine Kahari Woolcock: think coconut curry octopus with roti, okra, scotch bonnet, and mango chutney, or a rich jerk lentil stew inspired by his grandmother.

If you haven’t yet tasted Nina Compton’s uniquely layered style of cooking at Compère Lapin or Bywater American Bistro in New Orleans — an infusion of Caribbean and Creole influences, with a solid foundation in classic French techniques and top-notch pasta-making skills — now’s your chance to try it in New York. Don’t delay: Compton’s residency ends in January.

Cozy and comforting: those two words best describe the scene and the cooking at Bryce Shuman’s (Betony, Eleven Madison Park) new Sweetbriar, occupying the ground floor of the Park South Hotel. You’ll definitely want to linger in the front lounge, where the in-house band plays during weekend brunches. And further inside, you’ll relish sipping on French 75s at the bar, and feasting on sticky, sweet and smoky black pepper maple duroc ribs paired with buttery, fluffy cornbread.

Two pop-ups well worth checking out in Brooklyn: Susan Kim’s Doshi and Nancy Nguyen’s Beaucoup Project. Over at KIT (short for Keep in Touch, located in the former MeMe’s Diner space), Kim is taking up a month-long residency until November 13, where she’ll offer Korean doshirak (packaged meals) on Wednesdays and Thursdays, and anju (bar eats) on Friday and Saturday nights.

And at multiple spots throughout Brooklyn, including Project Parlor, you’ll find Nguyen serving up takes on Vietnamese classics, like roasted duck bánh mì with crispy duck skin, or steamed bánh bao filled with boiled eggs, pork, and sausage. Beacuoup Project will also be making multiple pop-up appearances at Alphabet City Beer Company in Manhattan, too.

Doshi: Make reservations online here. Beaucoup Project: walk-ins only.