Delight in Unlimited Fun and Nostalgia at Good Time Country Buffet

1. You’ll get nostalgic for a childhood that maybe wasn’t even yours.

For those who grew up in certain parts of the United States, buffets were often a ubiquitous part of childhood. It was a special occasion meal, or a place to go with high school buddies to sneak as many plates as possible — experiences Yun says he and the other partners in Good Time Country Buffet know all too well.

“When [my partners and] I went to these buffets as kids, we’d have 13 or 15 plates to the point where we got kicked out,” Yun laughs. “I did my birthday parties there. My grandparents took us there. My first actual job as a cashier was at my friend’s country buffet.”

The trio all grew up in Atlanta as Korean American immigrants, which lent them a unique perspective on cuisine and food that’s evidenced in their two popular New York restaurants, C as in Charlie, a Korean Southern restaurant, and Kisa, a casual joint inspired by taxi-driver haunts in Korea. Buffets have their own special place in the group’s hearts.

“A lot of Korean immigrants [in Atlanta] actually owned local country buffets at the time, just like dry cleaners or delis; it was one of the businesses that a lot of Koreans participated in as immigrants,” Yun says. And although these businesses’ numbers are dwindling, an interpretation of this is also true in New York City, where there’s a long history of delis opened by Korean immigrants featuring a buffet of hot and cold food on premise.

2. New York City’s buffet culture is lacking.

As widespread as buffets were in the southern parts of the country in the earlier aughts, their reach was smaller in the north, especially in places like New York City where rent and food costs tend to be higher.

Of course, there’s the Bronx’s Golden Corral, along with a scattering of buffets throughout the five boroughs that often specialize in cultural cuisines such as Chinese or Indian food — but in general, New York City’s buffet culture is lacking and they’ve become even more of a rarity in the post-COVID age.

“When I first came to New York in 2009, there were actually buffets. Then the trend shifted [toward] healthy eating, and [the] buffet was seen as part of the ‘old’ culture at a certain point,” Yun says.

When the trio inquired further into the topic with the teams at their other restaurants, they were surprised to learn that some of their younger staff had no familiarity with the concept at all.

“I was surprised. They told me they’re never experienced all-you-can-eat buffets, which was shocking to me, but I guess it makes sense,” Yun says. “Buffets only last if they’re busy. If it’s slow, it’s a bad business concept.”

3. Affordability is essential to this Good Time.

Perhaps the most remarkable thing about Good Time Country Buffet is its price. The restaurant is charging $26.99 per person for the all-you-can-eat experience, a bona fide steal in a city known for $40 half chickens and $1,200 omakases.

“A lot of places now still do by-the-pound, which I 100% understand. We’re approaching it not [necessarily] from a business standpoint, but what I would enjoy as a customer. I wanted to deliver a unique feeling where you pay a certain price and then you don’t have to worry about the bill,” Yun says.

It’s also more than a name — Good Time is exactly what they’re building the restaurant on (and they’ve since renamed their hospitality group Good Time Hospitality, too). Affordability and providing diners with an experience that has minimum stress as possible is a vital part of this mission.

“We thought about who we are as our hospitality team. I’m not a chef. My partners are not chefs. We only focus on creating a good time. We’re the inventors of a good time,” Yun says.

4. Step inside the past.

The interior of Good Time Country Buffet is designed to be as nostalgic as possible. With the restrooms and kitchen on the basement level, the dining room is located on the first floor and customers will be greeted with a display register and restaurant merchandise before making their way into the mostly banquet and booth-style seating.

“Some of the wallpaper is [like what] you’d find in your grandma’s house,” Yun laughs.

The team has gone so far as to make decisions that, to some, seem counter-intuitive to modern design which is, well, by design. They’ve installed carpet throughout the dining room, and they put an “office-style” drop ceiling up to hide the original cherry wood above it.

“We had to stick to what’s true [to concept],” Yun says. “I think the carpet is something that’s going to make you feel special as soon as you walk in without you noticing. It’s something that will feel different, and it’ll come from your feet.”

The buffet area will be slightly separated from the rest of the restaurant, with two hot stations and two cold stations.

5. Expect mac and cheese, fried chicken, and corn on the cob.

The menu at Good Time will be, in a word, southern. Expect golden fried chicken, collard greens, mac and cheese, corn on the cob, and mashed potatoes. There’s also a make-your-own salad bar. For dessert, banana pudding.

For the most part, Yun says, they’ll keep the menu the same, with a few rotating weekly specials. They’re still determining what these will look like, but he lists ideas like Taco Tuesday, chicken wings on Wednesday, and fried fish on Fridays as potential examples. They’re opening solely with dinner but are planning to add lunch in the near future.

To drink, for a small extra fee, you have your choice of classic sweet tea (unlimited) and soda (unlimited). There’s also beer, and a frozen cocktail that they’re calling the Southern Twang that’s heavy on peach flavor.

Finally, there’s also a buffet rarity — takeout.

“The only rule is to fill up the container. The lid has to close. You can fill it up as much as you want, as long as the lid closes,” Yun laughs.

Good Time Country Buffet is open for lunch from 11 a.m. until 3:30 p.m. and for dinner from 5 until 9:30 p.m. 

Ellie Plass is a freelance writer based in Brooklyn. Follow her on Instagram and X. Follow Resy, too.