A Day With Nok Suntaranon and Evan Funke
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For one night in Los Angeles, Nok Suntaranon and Evan Funke joined forces at Felix Trattoria for an unforgettable dinner — and I was there to capture everything that went on behind the scenes, during the entire service and the market visit that preceded it.
The two chef’s mannerisms are worlds apart, but in the kitchen they felt like each other’s balance. Their stories have similar narratives. Suntaranon devotes her work at Philadelphia’s Kalaya to carrying on the family-style southern Thai cooking from her childhood, influenced by her mother, Kalaya, who ran a curry paste business while she was growing up. Returning back home later in life to find the flavors around weren’t the same vibrant and fiery flavors she remembered so fondly, it became her mission to reclaim the traditional southern Thai flavors she recalled.
In L.A., Funke has a similar drive at his restaurants (Felix, Funke, Mother Wolf et al.) — preserving old world traditions through his craft of making pasta by “hand, mind, and sticks, not machines.”
The two don’t just cook exceptionally well; they cook with intent. Here’s how their dinner on Sept. 16 took shape.
7:54 a.m.
“This is my favorite market in California,” Funke says as they set off at the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market. The smell of flowers and herbs fills the air as the two hop down Arizona Street. It’s the day before the big event at Felix, and the freshest of ingredients must be sourced. On the list: Japanese eggplants, onions, tomatoes, basil, and lemongrass, to name a few.
8:02 a.m.
“It’s so beautiful. You guys are lucky,” Suntaranon says. “They have farmers markets in Philly, but not like this. It’s like a chef’s dream.”
Funke watches as Suntaranon samples grapes, charmed by her excitement. They sample a piece of young ginger, Suntaranon smiling as Funke exhales, “that will wake you up.”
‘Yeah, no, this is just—’
“Gentle?” Funke interjects.
“Yeah, it’s gentle!”
They both laugh. Then they’re off.
“I’m ready, just take my money. Tap tap, shop shop.” Her smile takes over.
8:22 a.m.
As Suntaranon takes in the produce, she’s simultaneously being introduced to people left and right. “Everybody knows you, chef.” Suntaranon says.
She’s not wrong — Funke seems to know everyone. “Come hungry, dude.” Funke says to a friend in the morning sun.
By the end of their trip through the garden of Santa Monica, Suntaranon jokes, “OK, I’m moving here.” Funke counters with an “I dare you.” After swooping one more sample of baked goods from a friend’s wagon, they wrap up to head to Felix to get back to prepping.
4:02 p.m.
It’s Day Two and the chefs are in the thick of it making sure all is set for the feast. As they put together the menu, you start to see the intersection of parallel lines — Thai-talian, Funke x Nok.
4:21 p.m.
The collaborative energy in the kitchen is tangible, with both chefs doing what they do best. Flavors, techniques, learning. Suntaranon brings in ingredients like lemongrass, galangal, the turmeric and five spice, while Funke’s team methodically rolls the dough and executes the components.
Suntaranon places the finishing leaves of cilantro on a bowl of Capelli D’Angelo Tom Yum; the colorful dish is a seafood trifecta of lobster, prawns, and scallops, stir-fried in nam prik phao, a sweet and savory chile jam.
4:31 p.m.
While Funke keeps his all business demeanor in the kitchen, Suntaranon is throwing winks and thumbs up every time the lens catches her attention. She adds a lightness to the kitchen, crowning the line of cooks with wooden spoon shoulder taps of approval with a big smile on her face.
4:34 p.m.
Pre-service lineup!
Funke shows off the special Sfincione Alla Spezieggiata: The fluffy and vibrant focaccia was baked using a curry blend, then brushed with charred scallion butter and sprinkled with Thai shallots. It will be served with a Thai-talian Caponata Di Melanzane, made up of Thai eggplant from Her Produce from the market trip.
After talking about cooking and dishes, Suntaranon gets real. She says she is grateful. Cooking hasn’t always been her life, but rather a later chapter. “It’s too good to be true,” she says, after sharing how she was placed on the “50 Over 50” list for Forbes Magazine. As she reminisces on her path, she tells the young and hungry room: “I just want to tell you guys: Anytime you have to put your life on hold, because you have to put your family first, it’s never too late for you to get up and do something when you are ready. And you all can do it.” The room fills with applause.
4:48 p.m.
“Bon appetit, team.” The view is incredible when the team dives into the dishes on the dinner menu. You’d have thought you were looking at people who had not seen food in weeks. Forks and knives criss-cross and clank and exclamations like “oh my god” and “the tiramisu is [expletive] amazing” are heard on repeat. Everyone scrambles to get a bite of everything, scraping the dishes clean with the last pieces of focaccia.
4:49 p.m.
“Is it good ? Are you guys having fun?” Suntaranon pokes in giggling at the sight. Funke overlooks proudly.
Funke runs a tight kitchen. He’s methodical and orchestrates his cooks mindfully and positively. While he’s strict, he’s kind and nurtures an inclusive environment. With a touch of urgency, he politely exclaims that it’s go time:
“Everybody get happy, let’s start detailing, let’s go to work.”
Everyone hustles to get in position — and the doors open.
5:09 p.m.
Service is underway. The Fiori Di Zucca Alla Rangoon lands on the table. The perfectly crispy tempura, infused with curry powder, sitting on glossy sweet chile sauce, filled with crab rangoon from — where else? — Philadelphia.
“We make it with Philly cream cheese because we come from Philly,” Suntaranon explains. “And I love crab meat so we loaded it all up with crab meat, curry powder, soy sauce, fried garlic, fried shallots, and scallions and we fry it.”
One bite and your taste buds reset. Chances are you haven’t had a fried zucchini flower quite like this before.
5:23 p.m.
Funke checks in on quality control. He spoons a taste of the tom yum sauce — mild reaction to the spice. It’s approved. Run it. No plates on deck, he pops across the hall to demonstrate a hand-formed pasta to one of his pasta cooks, having him set aside on a prep task for tomorrow.
5:40 p.m.
Suntaranon looks over the line cooks as they cover every burner and fill every basket. She jokes they need more pans. The cooks fire back: “Or more burners!”
6:29 p.m.
The mantecatura begins and the complex spices start to bind to Funke’s hand-formed pasta, steeped with lemongrass pasta water. Cooks line up to stir the pasta vigorously, fusing the fats and starches before twisting 180 degrees and plating. Then the final stages take over. Orders up. Rinse. Repeat.
6:49 p.m.
Orecchiette Con Il Laab is on deck. Holy basil decorates the small, ear-shaped pasta, paired with wild boar and sprinkled with chiles. The aroma of laab hits the nose.
“Laab spice is one of the most complex spices that we have,” Nok explains. Runners clean the rim and wait for the table number before they’re swiftly delivered to the diners.
7:37 p.m.
Plates are dropped, shared, and devoured. Talking slows and approving emotions find their voice at the table. Two people per dish, five plates plus dessert; everyone leaves stuffed.
Above: Pappardelle Alla Drunken Duck, a true mashup of cuisines. Duck sugo is fused with a five-spice blend, topped with another round of basil and chiles.
No matter how full, everyone makes sure to leave room for the Thai Tea Tiramisu. We are familiar with the well known Italian dessert, but this rendition hit home for Suntaranon. Made with Ovaltine, the barley malt flavor balances beautifully with Funke’s creamy mascarpone dessert.
Fin
No food left behind. As guests slowly filter out, Chef Funke stands with his wife, a soft smile across his face. The event was a major success, and he’s beyond proud of his team for pulling it off. He leaves them with one more word of advice: “Kindness gets you everywhere.”
Sierra Prescott is an L.A. born and based photographer/author and skateboarder who specializes in food, lifestyle, and action sports.
