Everything You Need to Know About Bocadillo Market, Lincoln Park’s All-Day Spanish Star

Bridging the connection between Spain and the American South.

You may not immediately — or ever — think about the connection between the foods of Spain and the Lowcountry of coastal South Carolina. But Martin, who grew up in Washington, D.C., and traveled with his parents to visit family in South Carolina, noticed the similarities after his honeymoon in Spain. There, he saw chefs using familiar ingredients from his childhood: cabbage, tomatoes, smoked paprika, rabbit, duck, shrimp, crab, thyme, and oregano. And he realized that many of his favorite ingredients to cook with, such as  cumin, saffron, rice, and olives, are common in southern Spain. Ditto with artichokes and mushrooms, likely brought to Spain by the Moors. Martin saw those connections, and wanted to highlight them at his restaurant. “I took a little from all these places, but wanted to figure out who I am as a chef,” he says. 

Start your day with coffee and pastries…

Before opening the restaurant, coffee wasn’t a big part of Martin’s day. But his wife and business partner loves it; they have several friends who own coffee shops. Martin eventually grew more curious, and saw how it played into the Spanish-Southern connection he describes above: “It’s something everyone can afford and it complements breakfast really well,” he says. “That’s what Spain is all about.”

For their coffee program, Martin and Neal use Bae Coffee, a roaster and coffee shop nearby in Lakeview. All of the pastries—moist banana-date-walnut bread, saffron chocolate chip cookies, Spanish Extremadura almond pie (custardy and reminiscent of a Southern chess pie), or crispy churros and chocolate sauce—are made in house. Some people come in for their morning coffee and camp out with a laptop, which is fine by Martin. It’s a relaxed, casual, inviting affair—which extends to the hidden back patio, lined with plants and a colorful mural wall. 

…And keep it going with bocadillos.

In Spain, bocadillos are sold all over—at gas stations, airports, restaurants—and are usually served cold. Martin loved the idea of serving sandwiches, but wanted to warm them up to make them more comforting. Bocadillos are, as the restaurant’s name implies, Martin’s signature offering during the day, served on fluffy-yet-crispy rolls with seasonally rotating fillings. There’s a crispy calamari with piparra peppers, herbed aioli, and a squeeze of lemon, a standout that’s not too heavy for lunch. The jamon Serrano is straight out of Spain, topped with olives, soft white mahon cheese, and piquillo peppers. The eggplant melt—with molten Spanish cheese, caramelized onions, pickled tomatillos, and peppers—is a vegetarian’s dream. There’s also a Spanish chorizo; a grilled cheese with tomato and basil; and smoked lamb with pickled green beans. 

Then settle in for a more elegant dinner. 

Dinner, Martin said, gets a bit more elegant, yet still feels appropriately “mom and pop.” You can make a reservation for a sit-down meal with proper tableside service. The lights get turned down. The playlist ranges from Bad Bunny and Rosalia to Carlos Santana and Spanish guitar instrumentals. And the menu has started to reflect a more wintry feel. 

Start with classic Spanish tapas, such as patatas bravas or croquetas filled with mushrooms, spinach, and creamy squash puree. For larger plates, Martin has brought back paella, a time-consuming dish that customers nevertheless adored, topped with Iberico pork, saffron, and cabbage. (He’s toying with a wild mushroom version next.) There’s also a very special homage to his mother: Ode to Mable. This Spanish bean stew is inspired by Martin’s mom, but also reflects his love of Spanish ingredients: Serrano ham, chorizo, lima beans, bomba rice, and morcilla sausage. 

Lighten things up with crispy artichoke tart with wild mushrooms, a duck egg, and salsa verde; or the rustic and deeply satisfying pan con tomate. For seafood lovers, Martin has branzino with Spanish octopus and pisto, a Spanish ratatouille, or smoked mussels and hake in a salsa verde broth. 

Some 80% of the produce used at Bocadillo Market is procured hyper-locally year-round at Gary Comer Youth Center in the Greater Grand Crossing neighborhood, an urban farm tended by local teenagers. The peas, carrots, tomatoes, cabbage, salad greens, onions, peppers, strawberries, and more are all grown on the South Side. “I love their mission,” Martin says. “They help bring fresh food to an underserved community—the kids plant and harvest the produce, and serve as beekeepers to produce local honey.”

Drink Spanish wine and spirits through it all.

If you’re a fan of Spanish wine, or have wanted to become one, you’ll feel right at home here. The entire wine list—as well as most of the spirits—hail from Spain. Think Nordés gin, Begonia sangria, Spanish brandy and vermouth, Maeloc cider, and Estrella Galicia lager. The wine? Fabulous. Cava from Penedès. Verdejo from Rueda. Garnacha blanca from outside of Madrid. Garnacha from the Priorat. Albariño from Rias Baixas. And of course, tempranillo from Rioja. Kick back with a couple of glasses, or settle in with a bottle.

Grab some goods on your way out.

Sometimes you don’t have time to sit and linger. For this, Martin and Neal have put together a savvy selection of packaged goods, many from Spain, some local, to grab and go in the market section of the space. You can get Spanish wine, gin, and beer, jarred pickled asparagus and olives, crisp Matiz bread and sauces, honey, rice, pottery, and more—a sweet reminder of the versatile space that’s quickly become a pillar of the community.

Ari Bendersky, a lifestyle journalist specializing in food, wine, spirits, and travel, is the author of Something Glorious with Ari Bendersky on Substack. Follow him on Instagram and Twitter. Follow Resy, too.