The February Hit List: Txikito, Foul Witch, Kingfisher, and More

Txikito reopened last September after being closed for the past two-and-a-half years and all we can say is if you haven’t been back yet, you owe it to yourself to go. Each of Alex Raij and Eder Montero’s restaurants (they also own Saint Julivert Fisherie and La Vara in Cobble Hill and were just named James Beard semifinalists for Outstanding Chef) is special and memorable, and Txikito is no different: its deft hand at interpreting Basque traditions is so subtle and just exceptionally good. It’s a pitch-perfect meal, from the first order of kroketas and hot gildas to the last bites of burnt cheesecake.

Think of this new spot from Roberta’s founders Carlo Mirachi and Brandon Hoy as a happy (rustic) medium between their O.G. pizza destination and their high-end tasting menu concept, Blanca. There’s no pizza, but the Italian-leaning menu at Foul Witch excels at wood-fired cooking and thoughtful preparations: Think pastas like sunchoke caramelle or garganelli with braised goat and dishes like polenta with Maine sea urchin and grilled tripe with pecorino and mint. And whatever you do don’t overlook the wine list, either.

Kingfisher — part of sommelier André Hueston Mack’s growing portfolio of Prospect-Lefferts Gardens restaurants (do stop by & Sons Ham Bar if you’re in the neighborhood, FYI) — opened last fall and it’s worth a visit if you haven’t been yet. Here, chef Nico Bouter explores the bounty of seafood in all its glorious forms: blue shrimp with passionfruit and cilantro; king salmon with morels, hijiki, and dashi; scallop with Asian pear, XO sauce, and shiso. But if you really want to indulge here, ask for the fried chicken skins topped with caviar, and a showstopping heirloom egg dish with trout roe, Hollandaise, and croutons.

Has Queens quietly become an incubator for speakeasy sushi omakase dens? Given its track record with the original Sushi on Me in Jackson Heights and now, That Place Omakase, perhaps. Located in the back of Astoria’s Poke Wave fast-casual dining spot, That Place Omakase feels like a hidden little oasis, and it benefits from Poke Wave’s already well established relationships with some of the best seafood purveyors from Japan. The restaurant got its name when Poke Wave owner Christopher Tsang was attempting to utilize the empty dining area, referring to it as “that place.” Here, chef Osan Weng serves two relatively affordable omakase options: one for $148 per person and another for $118.

Call (929) 593-7991 to make a reservation. 

Whether you choose to observe “veganuary” long into February or not, Ras Plant Based is always a good idea, all year round. Romeo and Milka Regalli have created a restaurant that you’ll want to become a regular at, with a creative wide-ranging entirely plant-based menu that always satisfies, whether you go for lunch, dinner, or brunch on the weekends. This is Ethiopian food that draws from their family’s own cooking traditions and recipes (do get the Mama’s Tofu), as well as contemporary influences (kitfo burrito, anyone?).

On the other end of the spectrum, some dining moments call for a steakhouse. Lord knows New York has plenty of them — natch, some of the best in the country — and in a city known for its steakhouses, St. Anselm stands out, and not just because it sells an exceptional butcher’s steak cut for just $29. It’s because St. Anselm embodies the spirit of a truly modern steakhouse, one where there’s so much more to the menu than just steaks: everything from the expertly grilled rabbit with curry leaves and liver butter or the rainbow trout with sweet-and-sour onions, to the grilled salmon collar and crisp winter radishes to the sides (much more than an afterthought), like pan-fried mashed potatoes with scallions and charred sweet potatoes with pumpkin spice. Here too, the wine list remains one of the city’s sleeper hits.

Salil Mehta, the prolific chef and restaurateur behind Southeast Asian favorites like Laut, Laut Singapura, and Wau turns his focus to Indian street food, and the food of his hometown of New Delhi, with this, his newest venture. That means incredible kebabs, like curry leaf-accented prawns with mango chutney, Aslam grilled chicken with smoked butter and cream, or fresh paneer with mint chutney. It also means charred king crab slow cooked in a butter garlic sauce, Malabar bone marrow pulao with the fluffiest of basmati rice. Another thing you can also count on? Some inventive cocktails, too, like variations on the Old Fashioned, punches made with saffron milk, and a Pineapple Raita spiked with tequila.

If you’re looking for a relatively affordable and inventive omakase meal ($70 per person for 13 courses), look no further than this countertop spot from the team behind critically acclaimed Joomak Banjum. Inside Chelsea’s Olly Olly Market, Ddobar is a specialist in yubu tarts — football-shaped pockets of inari filled with all kinds of creative ingredients — and the omakase kicks it up a notch even further, with dishes like black bass with burnt lime jelly and green apple or a cacio e pepe custard.

Di An Di has long been one of our favorite spots in Greenpoint for consistently delicious phở and chả giò, and its newly revamped menu leans heavily into those two dishes, along with a whole variety of bánh mì and skewers. While we’ll miss their Vietnamese pizzas, we can’t wait to dig into some of their grilled tofu skewers or classic dac biet bánh mì with Vietnamese sausage, headcheese, and paté. And better yet, they’re now open from noon to 9:30 p.m., so we can satisfy our cravings for most of the day.

A new neighborhood spot with grand ambitions, Lula Mae is a restaurant largely inspired by grandmothers: In this case, partner Mark Roof’s grandma serves as inspiration for the name, while chef-partner Dan San’s own Cambodian grandmother influences the largely Cambodian and Southeast Asian dishes on the menu. San, who previously worked in the kitchens of The Tyger, Chinese Tuxedo, and Nami Nori, strongly suggests you don’t sleep on the duck salat: it consists of thinly sliced, braised duck served on greens that vary from baby gem to Castelfranco, that you consume like wraps. Partner David Balk oversees the wine list, and promises one full of natural wines and plenty of affordable by-the-glass and carafe options. There’s also an intimate back room that you can book for private parties.

Email team@lulamaenyc.com to make a reservation. 

Paris has Folderol and now, New York has Caleta from industry vets Javier Zuñiga and Jesse Merchant Zuñiga (Contra, Lilia, and Llama Inn). Don’t call it a wine bar (although they do serve wine). Think of it as more of an ice cream shop by day and bar at night, à la Folderol. The narrow, intimate storefront along Avenue A is home to Bad Habit ice creams, which built a following for its flavors, like maple, olive oil, and miso raspberry. And at night, Caleta serves a lineup of inventive small plates like pork rillettes with kettle chips, charred artichokes with breadcrumbs and mint, and sweets like a hojicha baked Alaska and a creamsicle “cake” slice.

Walk-ins only.