We can safely say Joe Carroll’s ode to the grill is not exactly under the radar. But its extraordinary wine program is often overlooked — one that goes long on reds, as you’d expect, given the sheer quantity of beef on tables, but one that also shows a deep appreciation for curious white wines, and skin contact (a full dozen choices). Even with the reds, there’s a blend of expected (cabernet, big-time pinot noir) and far less predictable, like a veritable ode to gamay noir. The range here embraces everything — from classic (Bordeaux like Sociando-Mallet) to new wave (Australia’s Ochota Barrels) to, should you be feeling it, those big-footed darlings of a previous era (Sine Qua Non, anyone?). This is, frankly, what a steakhouse list should be in the 21st century. And to think we saw it here, on Metropolitan Ave.
Bodegas Tradicion Fino Viejo Sherry ($12/glass): You haven’t lived until you’ve had the Bootsy-level funk from dry-aged beef paired with great sherry. And that’s what this is — one of the most epic projects in Jerez, available by the glass in a rare style, namely fino (sherry aged under a yeast veil) but well aged, years past when most bodegas stop calling it fino.
Chamonard Morgon Clos de Lys 1997 ($109): As the legends of Beaujolais go, Joseph Chamonard is a name often inexplicably left out — despite being arguably part of the original Gang that made the region what it is today. Every now and then you find a well-aged bottle. So no, this isn’t a misprint. These are the wines they open in Beaujolais to show how gamay ages. It’s still a youngster, and it’s spectacular.