Hanchic, Damian, Anajak Thai, and More: L.A. Dining’s Best in 2021

Opening during a pandemic is never easy, but this tiny outfit in a Koreatown strip mall has made waves with its big flavors and fun fusion mashups. Chef Myungbin Min, who grew up in the South Bay and worked at places like Kali and Little Sister, is a master of experimentation. Some of his creations, like mandu with doenjang Bolognese or kimchi tagliatelle, are revelations. Why no one else has thought about adding marinated bulgogi to a super-cheesy risotto is astonishing — because it’s really, really good. This is more than contemporary fusion cuisine; it’s L.A. on a plate.

The former Ye Coach & Horses (more recently The Pikey) is now a California-centric bistro thanks to new owners, celebrated chefs Liz Johnson and Will Aghajanian (Mimi, Freedman’s, The Catbird Seat). The duo set out to breathe some joie de vivre into the refreshed iconic space with things like endive Caesar salads, roast chicken, an excellent burger, and subtle twists on cocktail classics — and they deliver in a big way.

Regulars who’ve traipsed through these well-worn doors will notice the bones haven’t changed much (neither have the ghosts, we hear), but the vibe is lighter and brighter, whether you’re in one of the two-seater booths in front or surrounded by Yves Klein blue walls in the back room. With a stellar team both in the kitchen and touching tables out front — general manager and wine director Terence Leavey exudes hospitality — you can see Horses running the long race.

After parting ways with his food truck-turned-taqueria Guerrilla Tacos, Wes Avila opened this evolving spot in Chinatown. Named for two birds he saw fighting in the Los Angeles River one day, it started with a small but mighty daytime menu, only patio seating, and a walk-up window for ordering. Now there’s a full indoor dining room and dinner hours (Friday and Saturday only), which means the chance to get things like scallop and uni tostada tostadas; grilled prawns with bone marrow butter; and chile relleno with chicken, golden raisins, and tomato salsa. That’s in addition to the tortas, tacos, and burritos that made a big impact from day one.

Next year, keep an eye out for Avila’s next project, Ka’Teen, where he’ll pay homage to the Yucatan Peninsula’s rich culinary history, as seen through a perch in the bustling heart of Hollywood.

Part coffee shop, marketplace, seafood market, and oyster bar, this small Santa Monica concept grew out of a roving pop-up that featured, not surprisingly, crudo and other fresh, seasonal raw fish dishes. After chef Brian Bornemann and partner Leena Culhane took their show around the city, they settled in the mostly outdoor space along Main Street, blocks from the beach, where sunshine and blue skies provide the perfect backdrop for things like chickpea crepes filled with smoked salmon and ikura, striped bass sashimi with bottarga and fried capers, and a delightful selection of wines from around the globe.

Their mission goes beyond featuring local and sustainable seafood; they’re out to create the kind of restaurant they want to see in the world today. Lofty goals, indeed. But if there’s any time to forge new paths for a brighter world, it’s now.

Post & Beam already had a strong foothold in Baldwin Hills. But like everyone else, chef John Cleveland and wife Roni Cleveland, who took over from original restaurant partners Brad Johnson and Govind Armstrong in 2019, had to maneuver through the pandemic with pizza specials and a strong takeout game. When it reopened this summer, jazz brunch returned, as did an updated menu, plus a new chef de cuisine Martin Draluck, whose helping deepen what Post & Beam can be to the community.

One way is with the Black Pot Supper Club series the two started this year. The special menus are based on the “Hemings and Hercules” dinners Draluck was doing at Hatchet Hall, which were also featured on the fantastic Netflix series, “High on the Hog.” Inspired by Hercules Posey and James Hemings, slaves who cooked for two of the country’s earliest presidents, eight courses (with wine pairings) celebrate historic African-American cuisine, things like black-eyed peas with pickled greens, head cheese with benne toast, whole roasted suckling pig, and the original macaroni and cheese, plus stories on where they came from. The dinners return in 2022; stay tuned to make reservations here.

Take joy in the fact that ramen wasn’t just a fly-by-night trend in L.A. While we haven’t had many big openings of noodle shops in awhile, this one is kind of off the charts. Originally from Tokyo, with strongholds in Portland and San Francisco, Afuri brought its housemade noodles and yuzu-scented broth to a striking industrial-chic space in the Arts District.

The broth is what makes this ramen stand out from others. It’s seemingly lighter, thanks to that citrusy kick, but the yuzu isn’t overpowering. The noodles are springy, with a perfect thickness and chew. Other dishes, like chicken karaage, soft-shell crab buns, and pork dumplings are also worth spreading around the table. There might be a line, but the kiosk ordering system makes everything a (mostly) contactless breeze. 

While many incoming Italian restaurants are riding a Roman wave in L.A. right now, chef Chad Colby’s second act takes a tour through the heel of Italy — the Puglia region, to be exact. He turned the short-lived Kassi space on West Third Street into a farmhouse-inspired villa with archways and stone walls, a mood that transports you before taking even one bite of little fennel taralli crackers; mini lamb and pork sausages; bombette made with caciocavallo cheese wrapped in capocollo and grilled; and panzerotti, crescent-shaped pastry filled with oozing cheese. The open-flame grill is perfect for skewered meats and fish, and of course there’s handmade pasta and charcuterie. There’s also a great wine list put together by Mozza vet Sarah Clarke.

There are a few great things to know about the Hammer Museum in Westwood: one, it’s free; and two, it’s home to the first Alice Water-conceived and David Tanis-helmed restaurants in Los Angeles. While Waters worked on the concept with museum director Ann Philbin, Tanis runs the day-to-day, including creating the menus of ever-changing, simple, classic California cooking.

This could mean a small tasting menu with dishes like braised chicken thighs with polenta, shellfish stew with local rock cod and Dungeness crab, or North African lamb tagine with saffron couscous, and an eggplant banh mi from a la carte offerings. Mostly outdoors surrounded by native grasses and plants, tables made from a 50-year-old bunya tree that fell two blocks from the museum, and a naturally breezy vibe, LuLu is great for a glass of wine and a bite after walking through the galleries. Open only for lunch now; dinner starts in the new year.

Enrique Olvera’s first Los Angeles restaurant is everything we’ve come to expect from the Mexico City chef: gorgeous food that’s as much about Los Angeles as Mexican tradition; a space that’s sultry and colorful; and cocktails made with small-batch Tequila and mezcal you won’t find everywhere else. It didn’t happen overnight, though. Dictated by pandemic mandates, however, the full opening was delayed, with his chef de cuisine Chuy Cervantes pivoting to serve dynamite tacos and taquitos via the Ditroit taqueria window out back. 

But when it finally opened, and we got to see the beautiful patio, taste the Baja clams with salsa macha, albacore carnitas, and pork belly in black mole with tortillas, sriracha, and kimchi — not to mention beverage director Jun Kwon’s no-waste cocktails — it was clear Damian would move the needle just a bit more on what Mexican food is in L.A. and beyond.

When Anajak first opened in 1981, it was one of the first Thai restaurants in the Valley. But when Justin Pichetrungsi took over after his father suffered a stroke, he knew he had to bring his family’s restaurant into the future while retaining its status as a longtime favorite for Thai staples. He’s succeeded at both while being a voice for a new generation of Asian-American chefs, supporting other cooks and local businesses, and offering a globally-influenced menu that fits how L.A. eats today. 

That means updating dishes with locally sourced, often seasonal ingredients; creating a stellar wine program; and daring the public to accept what Thai food could be. Would he rather not sell pad Thai but knows he has to? Sure. But he does, along with Thai fried chicken smothered in shallots, and really stellar omakase menus. Don’t miss anything he makes with dry-aged fish, specials like kanpachi collars with nam pla waan and golden pea shoots, or in his tacos on Tuesdays.

Johnny Lee’s little Chinatown counter-only restaurant made both Esquire and the New York Times’s best restaurant lists for 2021, and that’s knowing Lee would be closing the original Far East Plaza space and reopening in a new Chinatown (hopefully) before the year’s end. That’s to say, there’s a lot of buzz around Pearl River Deli, Lee’s homage to Cantonese classics, the pork chop sandwich on pineapple bun, and the hainan chicken that he’ll never be able to take off the menu — and rightfully so.

These are just a few reasons we’ll be watching for the next iteration’s debut, along with seeing what else the ambitious and talented chef will do with more space and a bigger kitchen.