Chef and owner Alejandro Victoria’s pride in his heritage — his family hails from Michoacán — shows up everywhere on Nico’s menu. It’s in the array of salsas, made from scratch every day using the tomatillos and chiles he knows and loves. It’s in the nopales, a traditional salad of grilled cactus, tomatoes, cotija cheese, and red onions. And now, more than ever, it’s in the 18 or so tacos on offer. Last year, Victoria brought the ancient art of nixtamalization to his kitchen. This process of soaking corn in limestone water, washing and drying it, and grinding it into masa results in more nutritious, flavorful tortillas — and an even stronger connection to the ancestors that Victoria continues to honor.