Ronan has reconceived the calzone in homage to L.A. // Courtesy of Ronan
Ronan has reconceived the calzone in homage to L.A. // Courtesy of Ronan

GuidesLos Angeles

The Resy Guide to the New Classic Dishes of Los Angeles

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What makes a dish essential to Los Angeles? Not just how it looks or tastes, but also where it sits within time and place in the pantheon of L.A. eating, giant melting pot that it is of cuisines and cultures. That might look like dim sum at 888 Seafood in the SGV, shrimp tacos dorados at Mariscos Jalisco in East L.A., doro wot from Meals by Genet in Little Ethiopia. More recently, perhaps it looks like the sandwiches from Echo Park’s Konbi sandwiches, or the larb at Night + Market, both with their own devoted followings.

But we’re always moving forward. Chefs all over town find inspiration everywhere they turn, whether the farmers market, family recipes, or the taco truck where they stop every night. And big names have never defined the culinary tone of the city — although they remain important.

With that in mind, here are 12 dishes that we consider contemporary classics — from gorgeous new seafood options in Silver Lake to bulgogi and the cheesiest risotto in Koreatown, Sichuan-spiced fried chicken, and some bodacious tortas in Chinatown. These are the foods helping to define L.A. today.

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