Behind The Line: Eveleigh

Here’s Behind the Line: Eveleigh. The Sunset Strip farm-to-table institution has been on fire since Chef Jared Levy took over the helm. So we got the deets on how a New Jersey raised chef topped the Los Angeles locavore arena.

Eveleigh has always been meat focused—nose-to-tail butchery is a mainstay here—but Jared Levy is also a seafood whisperer. From stone crab kani miso to live sea urchin with ponzu, the Japanese notes come on strong and the connection to his fish purveyors is unique. “It’s whatever they can catch hook and line. We design the menu around their work.” In fact, the menu has a catch of the day dedicated to his fisherwoman, Stephanie and her latest bounty.

Naturally, no corners are cut on any level; if something can be made in-house, Chef Levy adds it to the menu. That includes a freshly baked bread served with cultured butter. “Our baker here came in with some techniques that he learned in Italy, and then we work on it every week to have my sensibility of how I want it to be.” Fermented for 72-hours in the Italian tradition of pane di lariano, the bread delivers.

Not that the meat doesn’t play. Marin Sun Farms was just added to the all-star roster, which means grass-fed beef from Sonoma’s top ranchers. It’s safe to say, every dish is a reflection of the relationship between the kitchen and their crew. “That’s the whole philosophy behind the restaurant. Using our skills to create food out of what the growers, fisher people, ranchers can provide sustainably and of the moment. And if it happens to be lamb, then it’s lamb.” Can’t say no to lamb meatballs with midnight moon gouda. Pass the bread crumb salsa.