Maison Is More Than a Wine Bar; It’s One of America’s Best New Restaurants
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There’s a running joke between chef-partner Matt Conroy and co-owner Omar Popal that Maison Bar à Vins is “just a wine bar.” The latest concept from The Popal Group, which also operates Lutèce and Pascual, is, however, clearly much more than that.
Set in a historic brownstone in D.C.’s Adams Morgan neighborhood, Maison (for short) is a carefully renovated multi-story space with five Victorian fireplaces and antique chandeliers imported from France and Italy. It is home to an eclectic wine program, classic French spirits, and a talented group of chefs turning out classic terrines, housemade pasta, and plates of bluefin tuna with smoked eel and fava beans.
“It’s kind of an under-promise, over-deliver type thing,” says Conroy. “A wine bar just means so many different things, and I think part of what makes the space is you can make it what you want.”
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There’s a certain charm to tiny dining destinations, as anyone who’s ever found themselves wistfully swirling a glass of gamay…
Guests can stop in for, say, a glass of Chenin Blanc in the lounge, but for the full experience, head to the second floor dining room with its moody velvet curtains and melted candles. It’s here that you can sample crispy tête de cochon, Maine mussels in bouillabaisse, and brioche-stuffed chicken, the latter of which Conroy says is a can’t-miss dish — along with the Basque cheesecake.
The secret to that chicken? “It’s really sourcing a good bird, treating it correctly, and cooking it with care,” says Conroy. The dish is currently being served with English peas and jus gras, a rich sauce made from drippings and stock.
Conroy and Popal first connected through a Craigslist ad in 2019. At the time, Conroy was in New York running Oxomoco, while Popal was searching for a chef to help expand his family’s restaurant business. The Popal Group was founded by Omar’s parents, Zubair and Shamim, who fled Afghanistan with their three children following the Soviet invasion in the ’80s.
“What began as a Craigslist post evolved into this beautifully harmonious partnership,” Popal describes. And Maison is an extension of that partnership — a restaurant where harmony shapes everything from the décor to the food to the experience itself.
“There’s a lot of intention behind everything we do here,” says Conroy. “From the way the check gets dropped to the restrooms to the wine glasses.”
No matter what type of experience a guest is having at Maison, they hope the level of detail and care is noticed.
“There’s a wonderful harmony when something is done with intention,” Popal adds.
Despite the high level of attention, Conroy says the vibe is not stuffy in any way. Maison is a place where guests can have fun, relax, and enjoy the atmosphere.
That style of hospitality is also a nod to Popal’s upbringing. “As Afghans, when my parents would have friends over, it would be, like, 30 people that would come over to the house for a dinner party.”
This year, Popal and Conroy will be walking the red carpet together at the James Beard Awards. Maison is nominated for Best New Restaurant, proving once more that it’s far more than just a wine bar.
Maison Bar à Vins is open from Wednesday to Sunday starting at 5 p.m.
