Where To Eat in January: Nativo, Bar Topikós, Gaku, and More

Harunobu Inukai once ran a beloved ramen stall in a Chinatown food court. The noodle bowls from his Ramen Ikkyu era might be several income brackets away from the pricetag for Gaku Robata Grill Omakase today – where he currently oversees a $190-per-head menu alongside fellow chef Shimon Hanakura. But their version of “Australian kaiseki” has inspired similar loyalty and buzz: think foie gras monaka, chawanmushi with spanner crab and truffles, a sea treasure ball that’s theatrically served in a wooden birdcage. The menu has since been updated for 2023 (and has come down from its previous $280-per-person cost), but it still incorporates Inukai’s reverence for ramen: a bowl of noodles flavoured with A5 wagyu is part of the dazzling nine-course experience.

This one-of-a-kind taqueria is shaped by many experiences. At Nativo, chef Manuel Diaz taps into memories of his upbringing in Oaxaca, Mexico, where the family would roll tortillas for his grandmother’s Pam Pam restaurant. He also draws on his stint working with Patricia Quintana, “the first lady of Mexican gastronomy”, and techniques honed in the French Riviera, while cooking at the Michelin-starred La Chèvre d’Or. He adds a local twist to what he prepares at Nativo, too: his beef birria taco is flavoured with kunzea salsa verde, and lemon myrtle oil adds a bright charge to his guacamole with corn chips and pepita crumble.

Walk-ins only.

It’s been a decade since Sydney started queuing up for Mary’s American-style burgers, fried chicken and mashed potato and gravy. Over time, owners Jake Smyth and Kenny Graham have made their menu more vegan-friendly and also revitalised beloved live music venues, inspiring bands to sound-check and perform at The Lansdowne and Mary’s Underground. At their new Mary’s Entertainment Quarter outlet, they’re offering the cult burgers that have appeared on many ‘best of Sydney’ lists, with a lot more sunshine and outdoor dining options than the original dark and divey Newtown location. This new outpost is linked to their neighbouring Liberty Hall venue, which recently hosted The Killers.

Before you enter the new Sydney Modern extension at the Art Gallery of NSW, you’ll notice Kiosk, which launched at the same time. This First Nations canteen has a menu curated by Indigenous elder Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo, whose expertise on native ingredients has seen her widely consulted by chefs (including René Redzepi from Copenhagen’s Noma). At Kiosk, you can order summer berry and rosella jam muffins, chicken and leek pies with native dukkah and damper rolls flavoured with bush tomato chutney, pumpkin and Warrigal greens. The canteen is aptly located in front of a still-developing installation by Wiradjuri and Kamilaroi artist Jonathan Jones and the revamped Yiribana gallery showcasing First Nations sculpture, paintings and other art. Don’t overlook the native ice-creams, flavoured with macadamias, wattleseed, Kensington Pride mangoes or native apple and gum honey.

Walk-ins only.

Kylie Kwong’s Cantonese-Australian eatery is worth visiting at any time, but Lunar New Year offers a good excuse to dine at Lucky Kwong: ordering her prawn wontons or spanner crab dumplings with native bush mint would be auspicious because these steamed parcels symbolise good fortune. Another appealing reason to book in for her food during January? You’ll get to try Lucky Kwong’s special dinner feasts for Sydney Festival – these menus will feature her home-style fried eggs with XO sauce, signature fried rice, caramelised pork belly and coleslaw flavoured with Indigenous ingredients grown nearby and much more.

The menu at this tiny cafe is a snapshot of the surrounding suburb: dishes like the muffaletta pay tribute to Haberfield’s long-standing Italian roots, while Indigenous ingredients – like the wattleseed in the extravagant damper dessert, or macadamia granola – acknowledge that this has been Gadigal and Wangal land for thousands of years. Little West also leans on nostalgic Aussie fare, and the bush tomato sauce that levels up the smoked brisket sausage roll merges all these influences. Owners Josh Harrison and Sebastian Shearman also pour a coffee selection that keeps third-wave nerds happy as well as the old Italian locals who prefer a much darker roast.

Walk-ins only.

The breezy verandah at Alma is an excellent dining spot this summer. You’re just a few minutes from the Avalon sand and the menu also evokes the coastline in many ways, from the red prawn aguachile tostado to the braised octopus with peanut mole and charred sprouts. The guacamole also channels the ocean with a touch of wakame seaweed, too. It’s not just about sea-caught ingredients: there’s also burnt avocado tacos with salsa verde, grilled baby corn blanketed in smoked sour cream and seasonal vegetables – like zucchini – offered with pipian, a light green mole. Ordering the crisp, ultra-layered potato pavé is a good move here.

Hamish Ingham and Rebecca Lines first met while working at Billy Kwong, the acclaimed Cantonese restaurant that Kylie Kwong ran for nearly two decades. The duo went on to operate their own venues (Bar H, Banksii, Tequila Daisy), but it seems apt that their latest venture – Redbird – hints at their origin story at that much-admired Chinese institution. The menu takes on familiar staples, but executes them with flair: the prawn toast has already become a critical highlight. If you’re deciding between strawberry and Sichuan sorbet or the jasmine custard with elderflower and verjuice caramel dessert, get both. They’re a perfect pairing – cool and bracing, punchy and ultra-rich.

Text 0481 384 153 for reservations.

Kagoshima Master Ultimo strongly evokes Japan in many ways. This yakiniku restaurant sources meat from its own farm in Kyushu, with a mural highlighting Kagoshima’s volcanic landscape. The elegant timber-lined interiors also underscores the Japanese feel. There’s a big focus on premium wagyu cuts here, with some high-end platters if you want to splurge on truly luxurious selections of meat. Abalone tempura, and sushi presented with foie gras, caviar and sea urchin are other ways you can live it up. Cool down with desserts: ask for a scoop of yuzu sorbet or assorted daifuku with ice-cream. Can’t make it to the Ultimo location? There’s a Crows Nest outpost, too.

This spin-off of Topikós Bar & Dining Room shares the same address, even though it’s a stand-alone joint with a separate menu. Bar Topikós continues the Greek approach of its mothership with wood-fired skewers (such as honey-glazed haloumi) served with tzatziki, hand-cut chips and Greek salad. There’s also saganaki, fried squid, taramasalata and olives to snack on and wines from Naoussa and Amyndeon as well.

Call (02) 9132 5777 for reservations.