Where to Eat in August: Hags, Le Rock, Moonflower, and More

Hags is the realization of a long-held dream shared by chef Telly Justice and sommelier Camille Lindsley, and it’s also one of the most memorable dining experiences you can have in New York at this moment. Many restaurants strive for inclusivity — Hags lives it. Fully. The motto for this self-described queer fine-dining restaurant is “by queer people, for all people” and they mean it: The restaurant itself was designed with full accessibility in mind. They’ll accommodate food allergies and dietary restrictions, and they offer a fully vegan tasting menu ($145 per person), in addition to an omnivorous one ($155 per person) — and both five-course menus are gluten free. Sunday dinners are walk-ins only and pay-what-you-can.

For their sophomore effort (not counting Frenchette Bakery), Frenchette’s Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr have enlisted executive chef Walker Stern (Battersby, Dover) and headed uptown — in Rockefeller Center, no less — with food and atmosphere just as excellent as you might expect; you might even find yourself a bit surprised, too. As they do at Frenchette, Le Rock leans heavily into French classics — brasserie style, here — but they’ve also got a menu of seasonal dishes with lighter and brighter fare: think cooling falafel cucumber yogurt; crisp summer barbajuans; and luscious agnolotti with peas and chanterelles.

New York is home to many new Euro-centric wine bars (see Le Dive, Gem Wine, and Deux Chats) these days, but the opening of this East Village spot from chef Joshua Pinsky and wine director Chase Sinzer holds a lot of promise. Pinsky and Sinzer both met while working at nearby Momofuku Ko — Pinsky was chef de cuisine and Sinzer was the wine director — and with Claud, they’re focusing on a deep 1,000-bottle wine cellar and simple, approachable fare: think roast chicken with foie-accented drippings, pistachio bundt cakes, and a wine list that’s big on Burgundy.

Note: Claud opens on Tuesday, Aug. 2.

Everyone’s talking about Dimes Square these days, and should you find yourself there at some point this summer, might we suggest paying a visit to this always lovely spot? From the same team behind Brooklyn’s Hart and The Fly, Cervo’s is that pitch-perfect go-to: an ideal spot for a glass of vermouth and small bites (consider the crispy shrimp heads a non-negotiable) or a full-on seafood-centric meal (although you should really consider getting the half chicken with piri piri and fries).

On Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, from about 4 to 11 p.m., you’ll want to find yourself on Junction Boulevard in Corona, Queens, savoring some of Cleotilde Juarez Ramirez’s incredible chalupas: crisp-yet-pliable corn tortillas fried in manteca (lard), topped with bits of shredded beef and onions and a mix of red and green salsas. Trust us, the Chalupas Poblanas El Tlecuile food stand, located at 37-47 Junction Blvd., is worth waiting for — even in the summer heat.

Walk-ins only.

Cantonese American food is experiencing a bit of a renaissance here in New York thanks to Brooklyn’s Bonnie’s, and now leading the charge in Manhattan Chinatown is this newcomer from the same team behind Milk & Cream Cereal Bar. Chefs (and brothers) Zhan Chen and Peter Chen have devised a menu that’s both familiar and also unexpected: Southern-style scallion biscuits paired with salt-and-pepper chicken, and tiger shrimp with walnuts, tossed in a Calabrian chile aioli, are just a couple of examples.

This tiny takeout window delivers outsized West African flavors with its grilled suya (top sirloin) and hot honey-drizzled salmon. Sides include the fluffiest of jollof rice and most succulent fried plantains, and there’s nothing more refreshing than sipping on one of Rodo Foods’ Moringa Passion drinks, a blend of moringa cold brew and passion fruit, to complete your meal. The menu is compact, and whatever you decide to order, there’s really no wrong choice. Do note: Rodo Foods is only open on weekends from noon until they sell out.

Walk-ins only. Order ahead here.

If you haven’t yet been to this stalwart for Taiwanese food in New York, you owe it to yourself to go. Everyone’s favorite staples here include the crispy pork chop, fly heads (a garlic chive stir fry with fermented black beans), three cup chicken, and the stinky tofu, but might we also suggest the blood rice cake and oyster pancake, too? Whatever you order, you’re sure to be more than satisfied. Just note it’s cash only.

Walk-ins only.

Taking over the old Xilonen space in Greenpoint, this new bistro from former Wildair chefs Quang Nguyen and Amanda Perdomo features classic American food with a contemporary bent. Think of it as an Odeon or Balthazar 2.0. Standout dishes include a hearty bread salad with black garlic ranch and fried shiitake mushrooms; succulent fried chicken sandwiches that you can order from the to-go window; and duck with umeboshi plums, in lieu of the standard à l’orange treatment.

Note: Cool World takes mostly walk-ins, but does keep some reservations available for American Express Global Dining Access members. 

New York’s newest natural wine bar comes from the team behind Jersey City’s beloved Frankie and, true to its name, it’s got the bohemian flower-power vibe nailed perfectly, complete with a disco ball-mirrored bathroom and a glossy hand-painted, quartzite-topped bar. To pair with all the natural wines they’ve got in stock — many of which are hard-to-find bottles — they’ve got small bites like tuna tartare with a puree of carrot and ginger, and freshly baked bread with ramp butter. 

Walk-ins only. 

Yes, there are a lot of speakeasies in New York, but hear us out: Gongo is one speakeasy worth seeking out as much for the drinks as it is for the food. Located underneath Mine Craft Sushi on St. Marks Place, it’s got a huge collection of sake, shochu, and Japanese whisky to choose from, as well as a list of some pretty creative cocktails (if you’re feeling particularly adventurous, give the Blue Cheese cocktail a try) and equally inventive small bites, like smoked quail eggs and ushi-wasa, strips of raw marbled Angus chuck tail flap marinated in a Tempranillo-soy sauce blend with leeks and wasabi. 

Call 646-596-8180 to make a reservation.