The Resy Guide to L.A.’s New Old-School Restaurants

To the right of Damon’s door is a placard that lures you in with the promise of thick steaks and tropical drinks. Mosey inside its weathered thatch-and-bamboo facade to find just that: mai tais and chi chis, plus filet mignon and sirloin coulottes that anchor a menu of classic American family-style fare, which also includes coconut shrimp with tangy orange horseradish sauce and five-layer chocolate cake. First opened in 1937, Damon’s is the oldest restaurant on this list, although it’s only been on Brand Boulevard for 42 years. The Polynesian steakhouse moved from its original location on South Central Avenue in 1980 so that the Glendale Galleria mall could expand.

Dear John’s is named after its original proprietor: Johnny Harlowe, who set out in the early 1960s to create a steakhouse for his Rat Pack buddies to frequent. He swiftly succeeded — Frank Sinatra was a known regular, among other celebs of the day. But after several decades of fortune, Dear John’s withered and eventually closed, only to be rediscovered by hospitality mavens Hans and Patti Röckenwagner. In 2018, the couple, along with the acclaimed chef Josiah Citrin, revamped the iconic restaurant, if only for a brief period of time. Unfortunately, developers’ plans to bulldoze the lot are imminent. But fortunately, the lease was recently renewed for another year. Röckenwagner and Citrin make subtle tweaks to classic dishes — think tableside Caesar, wagyu beef pigs in a blanket, Kiev-style chicken Parmesan, and lobster thermidor — which practically demand to be paired with a martini.

Sizzling fajitas, burritos blanketed in enchilada sauce, and shredded chicken flautas are all specialties of the house at this family-owned Mexican restaurant in Sherman Oaks. As the story goes, Ray Vega was following in his father Rafael’s footsteps — who opened the Downtown restaurant Cafe Caliente after immigrating from Tijuana in the 1930s — when he established Casa Vega in 1956. The restaurant is known for its generous portions, roomy red booths, festive decorations, and more recently, for its appearance in Quentin Tarantino’s “Once Upon A Time in Hollywood.” Although Ray passed away last year, the long-held family recipes live on under the stewardship of his daughter, Christy.

Read on for former Bon Appétit editor-in-chief Barbara Fairchild’s ode to Casa Vega.

When Michael’s debuted in Santa Monica in 1979, it made a big splash. Ambitious chef Michael McCarty was just 25 when he opened his namesake restaurant, cooking food now considered an early, cutting-edge example of California cuisine. Alongside a team of now-famous chefs such as Jonathan Waxman and Nancy Silverton, McCarty served French dishes starring the best of L.A.’s local, seasonal ingredients. Today, Michael’s menu reads as charmingly dated (smoked salmon toast, duck leg confit, pan-roasted halibut) but still manages to stay relevant — the seeded sourdough bread is sourced from Jyan Issac, a 20-year-old baker whose naturally-fermented goods have been drawing lines around the block. Enjoy the restaurant to its fullest by requesting a table on the gorgeously lush patio.

With the recent passing of Marty Roberts, the jazz musician who performed live at The Dresden for over 40 years, now is a good time to visit this Los Feliz haunt to pay tribute over shrimp cocktail and prime rib. The Dresden’s fancy dining room boasts an ‘80s aesthetic, with red walls and white leather booths, yet it’s been around since 1954. Meanwhile, the restaurant’s more casual cocktail lounge is a go-to place for snacks and strong drinks — signature, seasonal, shaken, or stirred. Be sure to get a glance of the Wall of Fame on your way to the bathroom and keep your eyes peeled for The Dresden while watching “Swingers,” “Anchorman,” or “Mad Men.” Live entertainment is expected to return this spring.

Anajak was founded in 1981 by Rick Pichetrungsi, an immigrant from Bangkok whose curries and yum yai salad became popular among Sherman Oaks residents and food critics alike. In 2019, his son Justin took over. Now in its second generation of family ownership, Anajak is one of the most innovative (and rightfully praised) Thai restaurants in Los Angeles. In addition to its a la carte menu and thoughtfully crafted natural wine list, Anajak has more recently become known for its weekend omakase meals and Thai Taco Tuesdays, in which Pichetrungsi collaborates with other culinary talents from across the city to serve specials like Northern Thai meatballs (lab tot) alongside dry-aged fish tacos. Don’t miss the excellent Southern Thai-style fried chicken. 

Read on for how Justin Pichetrungsi pursues his vision of a modern-day Anajak.

The cozy, wood-paneled interior of The Golden Bull sits in stark contrast to the other bright, white-washed beachside restaurants dotting Santa Monica. It makes sense when you learn the chophouse has been in business since 1949. From its storied history as a mainstay of the LGBTQ community to its menu of chopped salads, cheeseburgers, and s’mores casseroles, many memories have been made within these walls. Slide into one of their signature black channeled leather booths or grab a table on the expansive back patio to feel the ocean breeze.

Read on for The Golden Bull’s history as a cornerstone for Santa Monica Canyon and the LGBTQ community.

Horses is a new restaurant, and a very hot one at that, but its bones are old and its inspirations are, too. Helmed by the talented chef couple Liz Johnson and Will Aghajanian, Horses took over the former Ye Coach & Horses space on Sunset Boulevard, a longstanding British pub that was popular with the Hollywood set. Johnson and Aghajanian used the restaurant’s original dark wood molding and infused it with a fresh palette of Yves Klein blue and canary yellow to create an atmosphere that’s at once modern, sexy, and comfortably worn. Nods to those that came before can also be found in the food: smoked salmon lavash with cress is a hat tip to Spago, while the Cornish game hen over warm dandelion panzanella calls to mind San Francisco’s Zuni Cafe. 

Read on for everything you need to know about Horses.

Tucked into the Santa Monica Mountains in Malibu, Saddle Peak Lodge is a romantic hideaway with an illustrious 100-year old history. First, it was a dry goods and beer shop, then a roadhouse for folks working on the nearby ranches run by Hollywood studios, and eventually a sprawling restaurant designed in a classical lodge fashion, with walls made of logs and taxidermy galore. The menu reflects the Old West theme as well, from New Zealand elk tartare to mesquite-cooked rib eye with red wine jus. Dinner here is destination dining within the bounds of L.A., so make a night of it.

Like Dear John’s, Carmine’s was a go-to hangout for the Rat Pack. It’s where Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin went for New York-style Italian food: elevated red sauce fare like eggplant rollatini, spaghetti Bolognese, and chicken piccata. Its brick building in Century City looks unassuming, but inside you’ll find a handsome, dimly lit space where customers have been swirling pasta and splitting plates of Parm since 1972. A meal here isn’t cheap, but the vibe is priceless.

Yamashiro is a sight to behold. The bona fide mansion in the Hollywood Hills is a replica of a palace in the mountains nearby Kyoto. Originally constructed in the early 1910s as a private residence, it’s been operating as a restaurant for just under 70 years. The food is firmly Asian fusion, with a menu ranging from sushi boats to braised short rib lollipops and hibachi pineapple fried rice. But you’re not here for the fare; the draws are an incredible view of the city, a garden courtyard with a koi pond, and a 600-year old pagoda from Japan (apparently the oldest structure in California).