Owamni, Estelle, Black Walnut Bakery, and More: Twin Cities Dining’s Best in 2021

There are a ton of talented chefs in the Cities, at the helm of restaurants that are creative and socially aware and important and just plain fun. But what sets Owamni apart is its sense of place, how deeply it’s tied not just to the state, to the city, but to the land it sits on. This new endeavor from Sean Sherman and Dana Thompson overlooks St. Anthony Falls, a site sacred to the Dakota, and celebrates contemporary Native American fare. Guests are cued in as soon as they reach the entryway, where a red neon sign announces, “You are on Native land.”

The restaurant’s lifeblood is Indigenous ingredients, those that were around before colonization. Instead of beef, pork, or chicken, you’ll find bison, trout, and turkey. And while there’s also no wheat flour, refined sugar, or dairy, it would be ridiculous to call the menu “lacking,” especially considering the skill and love with which Sherman and Thompson treat each dish. Heads up that the team will be taking a short break in early January to refresh.

This is the kind of place that, as soon as you’ve finished eating, you’re already planning a return visit. The first thing you’ll notice is the genuine warmth emanating from the staff. The owners have a knack for hiring, bringing on people who know the true meaning of the word “hospitality.” Servers are amply prepared to help guide you through the menu, a selection of small plates, pastas, and a handful of larger mains, but it’s hard to imagine being disappointed in anything that comes out of the kitchen.

In addition to the dining room, there’s non-reserved seating in the bar, a slip of a space that’s easy to miss when you first walk in. There, in addition to the full slate of dinner items, you can enjoy a variety of pintxos (snacks), including bacon-wrapped dates drizzled with truffle honey and shishito peppers graced with a garlic aioli and manchego cheese. The restaurant’s emphasis on the flavors of Spain, Italy, and Portugal runs through the drink offerings. In addition to beer, wine, and cocktails, you’ll find a well-chosen mix of sherries, Ports, and vermouths.

Like way too many places these days, Sarah Botcher’s beloved bakery has faced struggles in the “new normal,” something she’s been incredibly open about on Black Walnut’s social channels. Despite the challenges, Botcher’s pursuit of pastry perfection hasn’t been compromised. And being real has only endeared her to her fans, who continue to flock to this corner spot in search of baked bliss in the form of flaky croissants that melt in your mouth (be sure to try the chocolate-banana version), a kouign amann that will steal your heart, a banana cream pie with a thick layer of whipped cream, and pastry cases filled with dough that’s been baked into dreams. Stop in at lunchtime, when you can settle in with a gruyère grilled cheese, a glass of viognier, and an éclair to top it all off.

It’s no surprise that a Daniel del Prado restaurant would make it onto a Best of the Year list — he’s one of the most prolific and popular restaurateurs in town. And like all of his places, this one is an Instagram gem: lots of natural light and greenery, a wood-burning oven that’s a focal point, eye-catching cocktails. The dinner menu highlights a range of Italian dishes; you’d be wise to start out with the bigeye tuna crudo and arancini (fried rice balls) before moving on to one of the pizza, pastas, or entrees. For dessert, expect classics like cannoli and panna cotta, typically dressed for the season. Josefina isn’t just for dinner anymore, either. Earlier this month, they added weekend brunch to their offerings. It’s sure to be a hot ticket, so reserve now.

This Japanese-inspired cocktail lounge is discretely located (read: can be hard to find) in a unremarkable office building in the northern suburbs. The tiny bit of effort it takes to find it, though, will be amply rewarded by a moody and intimate atmosphere (socially distanced tables are the norm), friendly and knowledgeable bartenders, and intricately hand-crafted drinks built around the distillery’s own spirits (vodka, two rums, aquavit, and a bourbon that’s bottled in Minnesota but distilled in Indiana).

Little touches, like the warm hand towels you’re presented with (weekends only) and the gracious hospitality, reinforce the Japanese feel that owners Tyson and Mary Schnitker were aiming for when they launched the spot a little over a year ago. While you can definitely opt for a classic cocktail — there’s no judgment here — the only-at-Skaalvenn creations are a lot of fun. A prime example is the new It’s 12 Minutes Before Open, a clarified mojito accented with a raspberry puree ice cube and accompanied by a Spoonbridge and Cherry-esque raspberry mojito popping “bubble.”

While the crew of this food truck — one of the best barbecue joints in the Twin Cities — is taking a much-deserved break for the season, we’ll be dreaming of their smoked ribs, pork belly, monstrous chicken thigh sandwich, and birria tacos. If last year is any indication, chef Jon Wipfli, the brains and part of the brawn behind this operation, will be spending the coldest days of the year coming up with hot new ideas that’ll please the crowds that line up at this mobile kitchen that’s parked at Able Seedhouse + Brewery. He’s a meat maven and loves raising up local producers, such as Peterson Craftsman Meats.

Since opening in 2018, they’ve added smokers and increased their volume (it’s one heck of a lot of meat), but there are times they still sell out, especially when brisket is the special guest. 2021’s season opener hit in early March. If we’re lucky, gentle weather will have them perfuming the air with the scent of barbecue even earlier in 2022.

This cozy South Minneapolis bistro busted out of the gates with takeout — certainly not an ideal way to launch a new restaurant but necessary since it was October 2020 and the pandemic was quashing people’s indoor dining plans. Then, in April of this year, the light at the end of the tunnel arrived, and the staff started welcoming guests four nights a week.

By the time you read this, the restaurant will be open Monday through Saturday, serving the decadent two-patty cheeseburger that’s become famous and sharable plates like crispy confit duck legs paired with a poblano mole, lamb meatballs smothered in a salsa barbacoa and Mexican crema, and arroz con leche: rice steeped in cardamom, orange, and vanilla and finished with cherries, toasted coconut, and pistachios. It’s those subtle nods to chef Jorge Guzmán’s Mexican heritage that take these dishes to the next level and make Petite León an indispensable member of the city’s culinary darlings.

Sitting in one of the rattan chairs at a pale blonde wood table or in one of the half-moon booths, it’s hard not to feel like you’ve been transported to someplace that’s definitely not Minneapolis. Sure, there’s a slight Scandinavian feel, what with all the crisp lines and light-colored accents, but there’s also a casual chicness and warmth to the space that makes you feel like you’ve landed somewhere tropical. The resort-y look and feel comes courtesy of design firm Shea, who turned owner Ann Ahmed’s vision, much of it inspired by her travels, into an inviting dining room.

Her voyages through Southeast Asia also influenced the menu, as did her Laotian roots (fun fact: “khâluna” means “please” in Lao). Many dishes verge on works of art. Case in point: Rainbow Rice, a platter a brightly hued bits and pieces (carrots, red bell peppers, yard beans, purple cabbage, and more) surrounding a mound of dazzling blue rice. Cocktails share the colorful spectrum, with many making good use of herbs and fruits, as well as house-crafted tonics. If you want to learn how Ahmed and her team do it all, sign up for one of the cooking classes, held in the store/private dining room next door.

Call (612) 345-5199 for reservations

This rebooted St. Paul bistro impresses in so many ways. For starters, there are the changing menus, which reflect the seasons and highlight the types of food that we’re craving right now. Dine this month, and you’ll find items like young hen with cauliflower and apple, braised short ribs with squash and pumpkin seeds, and a cassoulet stuffed with goodies: duck leg confit, sausage, ham, and white beans. The desserts follow suite, with the current selection — including an apple sauce spice cake and kabocha squash and fig tart — focused on winter flavors. Then there are the drinks, a tightly edited selection of wines and classic and contemporary cocktails, like the Thyme Gimlet or Giardiniera Martini (gin, dry vermouth, seasonal vegetables, and a pickle).

Finally, there’s the ethos. Augustine’s has eschewed tipping in favor of wrapping the service charge into the prices to ensure that all employees receive a fair wage and have benefits, including paid time off and health care. And they’re serious about it — there’s not even a tip line on the charge card receipt. The restaurant’s staff and management are working hard to be the change they want to see.

In a metro area blessed with amazing pizza places, it can be hard to stand out. But Young Joni continually does, thanks to the brilliant Ann Kim, the Twin Cities’ doyenne of dough. Among her many talents is instinctively knowing what guests want, whether that’s here, at her three other pizza spots (Pizzeria Lola, Hello Pizza, and Vero, an airport outpost), or at the masa-focused Sooki & Mimi. For Young Joni, that means a selection of unique wood-fired pies that mash up ingredients such as beef short ribs, arugula, and a soy-chile vinaigrette; broccolini, feta, olives, preserved lemon, and almonds; or chorizo, goat cheese, piquillo peppers, and olives. But the restaurant doesn’t rest on its pizza laurels. There’s also a whole fish with a Thai dipping sauce, chicken wings, salads, and vegetable dishes so good, they rival the rest of the menu. Reservations are pretty much a necessity, but those without can try for a seat in the back bar (enter through the alley), where you can get any of the pizzas to enjoy along with your tipple.

Call (612) 345-5719 for reservations.