The September Hit List: Bar Blondeau, Lodi, Contento, SAGA, and More

Frozen L’Orange. Chilled mussels with tomato and baguette. Manhattan skyline views. This and more awaits on top of the Wythe Hotel, courtesy of chef duo Jake Leiber and Aidan O’Neal (Le Crocodile, Chez Ma Tante). Bar Blondeau takes inspiration from French wine bars, so while the cocktails are stellar, don’t overlook the bottle list.

Ignacio Mattos’ new bar, café, and aperitivo concept is right smack dab in the middle of Manhattan at 1 Rockefeller Plaza. Talk about a September opening! Alongside Mattos, executive chef Maxime Pradié, a Matter House vet, and the baker Louis Volle, who put in time at Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Tartine, have created a menu marked by punchy salads, silky housemade cheese, and classic Italian pastry (think maritozzi con la panna) to be savored by New Yorkers and tourists alike.

While many restaurants claim to be ADA compliant, the unfortunate truth is that most are not easily accessible by diners in wheelchairs. From a design perspective, Contento is a gleaming example of what it actually looks like to be welcoming to all, as Pete Wells noted in his Times review. Add a thoughtfully curated wine list crafted by owner-somm Yannick Benjamin and Peruvian-inspired dishes like leche de tigre-spiked ceviche and Nikkei-style pork katsu, and this Harlem destination is an all-around win.

In other views-related news, the Crown Shy crew has opened SAGA on the 63rd story of 70 Pine Street, the same Art Deco building that houses its sister restaurant on the ground floor. Here, chef James Kent showcases a personally-informed tasting menu with nods to his Moroccan roots. The courses are many, the prices are ambitious, and the vibe is swanky dinner party. And you know you’re curious.

Before the original Nhà Mình closed, there were bún bowls, bánh mì, and art shows for those who were clued in on the excellent East Williamsburg hideaway. And now, it’s been reincarnated in Ridgewood with all of that and then some — Vietnamese breakfast served all day, vegan and non-vegan spring rolls, and programming in partnership with neighborhood venue Trans-Pecos. 

Farm-to-table fine dining in a TriBeCa townhouse is the idea that drives One White Street home. Thus, an intrinsic relationship with the upstate Rigor Hill Farm informs six seasonal courses served upstairs, in addition to a la carte offerings available downstairs. Since it’s late summer, think chilled foie gras with pickled and pureed peaches, grilled scallop skewers with farm pesto, and glazed potato gnocchi with sweet corn and oyster mushrooms.

From the folks who brought you Greenberg’s comes Frankie & Vali’s, a neighborhood slice shop right next door, granting Bed-Stuy residents all they truly need: great bagels and great pizza. Ted Cianciosi, a baker and pizzaiolo whose resume includes focaccia temple Leonelli Bakery, is behind the dough, and specials range from peach-and-prosciutto to mortadella sandwiches.

Chef Chikara Sono earned his stripes at the acclaimed kaiseki spot Kyo Ya before opening bbf alongside the restaurateur Makoto Suzuki of Brooklyn Ball Factory, Bozu, and Samurai Mama. At their brand-new LES Japanese tavern, an extensive menu centered on “sushi bombs” (adorable ball-shaped nigiri), spans from anago fish & chips to spare ribs with spicy garlic sauce, and promises a lot of fun.

The Bar at Peoples, Essex Market’s darling natural wine shop helmed by Daryl Nuhn, quietly reopened in July with chef Nir Sarig of ETI behind the pass for a three-month-long residency. Menu options include saluf (Yemenite flatbread), burrata with grated tomato and shug, scallop sashimi with watermelon juice and pickled ginger, Lebanese beef tartare with mint and radish, and plenty to drink by the glass. Go while you still can.

Saint Theo’s is a snazzy coastal Italian restaurant with funghi fritti, roasted oysters, Sungold spaghettini, and lemony Dover sole. If that’s not enough too draw you in, know that the menu was crafted by Ashley Rath, a seasoned fine-dining chef with high-profile openings such as Atera, Santina, and The Grill under her belt. It’s worth a visit.

There’s a special place in restaurant heaven for the spots that excel in pizza and pasta, and you can now add Williamsburg pizzeria Leo to that list. Their pasta program has kicked off with two Roman staples: cacio e pepe and amatriciana, so get your fill of those now and stay tuned for what’s to come.