New York City’s Restaurant Nominees for the 2020 James Beard Awards

The greasy spoon revival is here and it is getting its due. At Golden Diner, Samuel Yoo whips up diner classics like you wouldn’t believe, applying a fine dining chef’s razor-sharp eye to the humble genre. Think a BEC on a sesame scallion milk bun and club sandwich triangles studded with chicken katsu — free coffee refills and swivel stools included.

The first stroke of genius was giving Eunjo Park full reins of Momofuku Kāwi. The second one is her decidedly Korean menu. But don’t expect your typical kimbap here; chef Park remixes tradition with a dash of opulence (read: her kimbap envelops lush slivers of foie gras terrine) and the plates are a sight to behold.

When three of New York’s leading bartenders unite, you’re bound to get one sensational drinking den. And Existing Conditions more than delivers, shaking up all sorts of experimental concoctions without the speakeasy pretense. More joyous touches: A vending machine that spits out bottled manhattans and martinis, and a non-alcoholic menu that packs just as much of a punch.

It’s only been four years since Missy Robbins graced Williamsburg with her handcrafted pastas, and already, Lilia has entered the city’s canon of quintessential restaurants. You’re here for the mafaldini curled around peppercorns and melted Parmigiano, just one of the ways that Robbins transforms simple ingredients and catapults them to delicious effect.

You go to the Met Breuer for two things: the contemporary art and Natasha Pickowicz’s sweet treats. Nestled in the museum’s light-filled underbelly, Flora Bar is where Pickowicz revamps tried-and-true pastries with a bit of flair. Must-haves include the black cardamom sticky bun, tahini white chocolate cookie, and the savory green pie.

How does one end a meal at an institution like Gramercy Tavern? With a dessert, of course. But not just any: Pastry chef Miro Uskokovic runs a smooth counterpart to the dinner’s menu locavore approach (read: seasonal fruit and local dairy only), whipping up deceptively simple desserts that end things on the very best of sweet notes.

A sleepy street in East Williamsburg is no longer sleepy, thanks to the kitchen wizardry happening at win son. Trigg Brown cooks up a bombastic ode to the flavor-packed foods of Taiwan, revisiting everything from night market snacks to national classics. Beware of his juicy, pan-griddled pork buns: They will ruin you for others.

When Zoë Kanan was named the Freehand Hotel’s head baker, New York wasn’t ready for her onslaught of buttery, baked goods. Patrons and critics alike waxed poetic about her sourdough croissants, chocolate babkas, and dark-as-night barley bread. And though Kanan has just ended her Freehand tenure, this baking maven is one to watch.

Balaboosta means “perfect housewife” in Yiddish, and though the Israeli menu is homey, chef Einat Admony’s sun-drenched plates will leave you nothing short of breathless. Hers is a vivacious, imaginative take on Middle Eastern cuisine (read: za’atar fettuccine and halva French toast), which at its heart pulls from her family’s Persian and Yemeni backgrounds.

When The Four Horsemen needed small plates to match its exceptional selection of natural wines, Nick Curtola stepped in and properly dazzled. Now, patrons can feast on bright and seasonal plates, like butter bean purée and pot roast, alongside their funky glasses of wine. Pro Tip: Lunch is where it’s at, with a tight $32 menu that consistently knocks it out of the park.

After helming two of the city’s most beloved Korean institutions (Dok Suni and Do Hwa), Jenny Kwak ventured to Park Slope and opened up a bona fide neighborhood gem. At Haenyeo, Kwak creatively fuses kimchi-laced dishes with a global touch, from a cheesy rice cake fundido that eats like something out of Mexico to a fiery bouillabaisse sopped up with seaweed butter-coated baguette.

When you’re aiming to recreate the home-cooked dishes of India’s matriarchs, you don’t skimp on the spices. And chef Chintan Pandya blissfully abides by this principle, serving family recipes and nostalgia on a plate. Adda is spicy and layered, and the parade of seasonal saag paneer and fiery curries will leave your taste buds tingling.

Llama Inn is what happens when an ex-Eleven Madison Park sous chef turns his attention to his Peruvian homeland. And Erik Ramirez electrifies with his menu, which highlights the fluidity and cross-cultural bend of Peruvian cuisine. We’re talking fluke ceviche that brims with Japanese dashi, and aji verde and fermented soy bean battling it out on chicken thighs. Bonus: Last year, Ramirez and co. opened Llama San in Manhattan to rave reviews.

What does a red sauce renaissance look like? It looks like lasagna rolled up into roses; a chrysanthemum salad hiding under a snowy mound of Parmesan; stuffed pasta that looks like striped candies; and an ode to the garlic knot in the shape of a cheesy garlic-stuffed flatbread. Angie Rito and Scott Tacinelli are deliciously playful in their creations, and Don Angie is a welcome beacon to the Italian American genre.

Leave it to Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske to cook up the wine bar of your dreams. The sister counterpart to tasting menu darling Contra has all the buzzy energy of a Parisian neobistro, where bright and zippy small plates roll out to the pouring and sipping of some of the city’s best natural wines. Pro Tip: You can find the dynamic duo’s selection at their recently opened wine shop, Peoples.