New on Resy: Benno Restaurant, Bar Wayō, Luthun

Jonathan Benno’s eponymous restaurant in The Evelyn Hotel is a fine dining experience from a different time, where dressed-up waiters and artful plates prevail. The menu sings of Northern Italy and Southern France, disclosing Benno’s razor-sharp French technique (honed at Per Se) and meticulously prepared plates, which extol the flavors of Liguria and Provence: carnaroli risotto, rabbit and foie gras ballotine, garganelli verde, and Rohan duck are among the highlights.

The latest Momofuku venture is already making a name for itself, no less than three weeks after opening. And therein lies the power of Bar Wayō, where a French dip twist on a Wagyu burger and a savory curry donut are already cult dishes in the making. Throw in a show-stopping Seaport locale with waterfront views, a whimsical cocktail program, and you’ve got yourself a haven to hit before the summer checks out.

Chefs Nahid Ahmed and Arjuna Bull’s shared kitchen experience reads like a who’s who of the world’s most thought-provoking restaurants—El Bulli, Lespinasse, The Fat Duck, and Lyle’s are some of the few—and it explains the pair’s tantalizing tasting menu. Over the course of five or more plates, Luthun stuns in its delivery of globe-trotting flavors, from the striking fushka (dressed-up and taken out of its street food origins) to a refreshing tomato dish with salted plum and rose. At $68 for the five-course tasting, it’s a steal.

In spite of its newcomer status, Red Hook Tavern looks (and feels) like it belongs in the annals of New York’s storied dining past. And that’s because old-school charm isn’t lost on chef Billy Durney, who brought bona fide barbecue to the city (in the shape of Hometown Bar-B-Que), and looked to classic institutions (Peter Luger, Corner Bistro) for this old-timey bistro. Expect the paragons of cheffy pub fare, from a romaine wedge salad and little neck clams, to a 45-day dry-aged NY strip and terroir-driven wines.

Behind a vermillion facade set with blue trim stands a NoHo icon that’s been gloriously restored. The Jones, named after the first Great Jones Cafe, is a Gabe Stulman operation that’s bent on being your next neighborhood haunt, and if his record proves anything (Joseph Leonard, Fairfax, Simon & The Whale), it’s that his formula is a winning one. So settle into the cushy interior and indulge in the all-day menu that hits the right notes (read: poached prawns, shaved summer squash, and The Jones’ ode to a certain fast food chain– the filet o’fish).

Often thought of as David Chang’s Italian love affair, Momofuku Nishi is a sleek Chelsea operation that surprises and delights. In the kitchen, chef Nick Tamburo takes cues from Italy to craft antipasti, house-made pasta, meat, and fish, infused with the playfulness of a Momofuku establishment. Spring for the whimsical ceci and pepe, where a miso-like chickpea paste serves as a stand-in for Pecorino Romano, campanelle laced with blue crab and Old Bay seasoning, and the Parmigiano-Reggiano ice cream topped with a hint of honey truffle.

Estuary comes with serious pedigree, courtesy of Danny Brown, the chef behind Queens’ only Michelin-starred eatery. Under the culinary direction of esteemed French pastry chef François Payard, Brown slings a seasonal menu, where global staples brush up against local produce. Think the pissaladière flat bread by way of Nice, France, Portuguese sardines and tomatoes, Singaporean laksa soup, and Roman cacio e pepe, set against the stunning backdrop of Manhattan’s waterfront.

The trattoria counterpart to Jonathan Benno’s high-end flagship, Leonelli Taberna draws from Rome and the chef’s earliest food memories to craft nonna food at its best. Saucy plates are served against an Art Déco meets old-world Italy backdrop, assembling a shareable feast teeming with nostalgia: verdure fritte, beef-and-pork meatballs, cacio e pepe, and fennel-duck sausage rigatoni tell the story of a childhood spent in Italy.

Acclaimed Israeli chef Eyal Shani must be taking to New York very well. After opening his first stateside Miznon locale in Chelsea Market, and taking dinner parties to the next level with HaSalon, Shani has unleashed his signature offerings unto the Upper West Side. Expect a more elevated experience, with snugger digs and new large-format plates (chicken schnitzel, whole fried branzino, lamb kebab) alongside the roasted cauliflower and pillowy pitas that have reaped many a devotee.

The chef-restaurateur who brought high-end Hellenic cuisine to North America doesn’t cut corners when it comes to seafood. And at his flagship Estiatorio Milos, Costas Spiliadis puts on the theatrics with an open kitchen and fish market, showcasing seafood caught right off the shores of the Mediterranean. Your best move is to tour the market, and have your selection simply, and deliciously, grilled.

Tucked among Chelsea’s art galleries and High Line sights, Cookshop is a celebrated neighborhood gem. Plant-lined and sun-bathed, the restaurant is a hotspot for farm-fresh ingredients, and the seasonal all-day menu is a delicious testament to regional produce. Plates are cheffy but never over-the-top, and there’s something for everyone—from a fine gourmet to a burgers-and-wings enthusiast. In our case, it’s the spit-roasted chicken, eggplant lasagna, and Dorset lamb.

Thanks to chef José Luis Chavez, there’s a delectable slice of Peru making waves in the Upper East Side. After jet-setting to Peru for culinary school, the chef came back, set on bringing his father’s homeland’s vibrant and diverse culture to the city. Must-orders include the classic Peruvian ceviche with corn and sweet potato, sweet-and-salty lomo saltado, a Nikkei preparation of tuna with ponzu, and anything from the causas section– an ode to Peru’s native potato.

Balvanera delivers in bringing the vibrancy of Buenos Aires’ porteña cuisine to life. And there’s a lot to love at this Argentine steakhouse, where grass-fed strip loin, ribeye, and morcillo and chorizo take center stage. But peek at the shared plates, and you’ll be introduced to another facet of this stellar cocina, where provoleta (grilled provolone), sepia (squid ink a la plancha), and lubina (striped bass with romesco sauce) dazzle just as much.

Travel through Asia without ever leaving Brooklyn: this Greenpoint cocktail bar shakes and stirs an impressive array of cocktails with the Asian pantry in mind. Dreamt up by a pair of childhood friends who grew up in Delhi (and explored the rest of Asia far and wide), Sama Street will indeed have your wanderlust tendencies going. Expect fish sauce, pandan, 5-spice syrup, Calpico, and condensed milk to amp up your drink, alongside a flavor-packed brunch (get the Longanisa omelette and kaya French toast).

If you haven’t been to Lefferts Gardens’ new beer garden, now’s the time to go. This Jewish gastropub is a technicolor feat that revamps your bubbe’s food to maximum effect—think späetzle with chicken confit, pounded wienerschnitzel with beef bacon, and a beer-braised kielbasa with chicken skin crumble. It’s all kosher-certified and meant to be downed with Grüit’s rotating selection of local craft beers. Best of all, the garden is bookable, and where you’ll want to be on those last summer days.

With its white-washed exposed brick, marbled tables, and lush greenery, it’s no surprise that Endswell is a cocktail bar straight out of Fort Greene. The enticing locale boasts a tight menu of color-coded libations—Verte for mezcal with tomatillo, Rose for aquavit, cocchi rosa, and rhubarb—with wines as French as the bistro plates, from rich coq au vin to cheesy tartiflette.

There’s no better way to close out the summer than with a little bit of surf and turf. So make a beeline for Steak N’ Lobster, which fires grass-fed Black Angus beef and sustainably-sourced fresh Maine lobsters, with Japanese flair—think Kogi steak dipped in sweet miso, or “Piri-Kara” lobster dressed in red hot sauce. The dishes run the gamut from classic (New England lobster roll, NY strip steak) to playful (bacon cheeseburger pierogies), with decadent shakes to end it all.

A favorite for afternoon tea, Bosie stows away its teapots and tiered platters for a classically French menu come nighttime. After 5pm, you’re in for terrine de foie gras, steak au poivre, and raie à l’orange (roasted skate brushed with orange marmalade), with wines that lean heavily on Old World vines. Be sure to check out desserts—the pâtissier behind it all (sweet and savory) helped Pierre Hermé become a household name.

From its West 46th Street location, where it has proudly stood since 1982, Nino’s serves classic Italian staples. At this casual yet sophisticated spot, the hallmarks of red sauce cuisine crowd the tables, where the clam and Italian bacon pie, fresh veal and pork Bolognese rigatoni, and drunken chicken Parm sandwich (thanks to a vodka sauce) are known favorites.

Graziella’s is a welcome addition to Fort Greene, and the neighborhood’s first wood-burning pizza locale, which emerged from the ashes of an empty garage. At this cozy gem, a rustic Italian kitchen doles out a roster of known hits, from baked clams and meatballs, to orecchiette with broccoli rabe and sausage and chicken Marsala. As for the pies, they come out thin, crackly, and topped with the very best of what’s in season.