Introducing: Michelin’s Star-Studded California Restaurants, LA Edition

n/naka is one of this town’s toughest tables to nab, as those who have tried can attest. After all, it’s where acclaimed chef Niki Nakayama resides. A meal here is comprised of her phenomenal interpretation of kaiseki cuisine—shaped by the season’s current offerings and a combination of traditional and modern techniques. It’s a bucket list experience; set some Notifies.

In 2016, James Beard Award-winning chef Dave Beran moved from Chicago, where he was the executive chef at Next, to open his debut concept in Los Angeles. The result is Dialogue: an intimate and handsome Santa Monica locale, where a single tasting menu tells the beautiful story of Southern California abundance. Diners are prompted to first look back on the previous season, move through current-day delights, and finish with a taste of what comes next.

Newcomer Brandon Hayato Go made a splash in LA with his bespoke lunch bento boxes (which he still crafts every Friday and Saturday), and has since followed up with a sensational sit-down debut. At Hayato, Go moves gracefully from one Japanese cooking method to another—grilling, steaming, frying, and simmering—to craft a pristine, 10-course offering comprised of the very best seafood that’s locally available.

Jon Yao is a young, poised Taiwanese-American chef from the San Gabriel Valley, who’s serious about his craft. At his deeply personal Kato, Yao crafts an artful and innovative multi-course menu that pulls equally from Los Angeles and Taiwan. Think tapioca fritters with uni, made-to-order silken tofu in a fragrant fish vinaigrette, and the like.

Maude is no small feat. Helmed by Curtis Stone, and powered by deep dives into the great wine regions of the world, this Beverly Hills destination pivots every quarter to serve a brand-new cuisine paired with a new slate of wines. Up now? Sonoma. (Look forward: a celebration of Champagne, in honor of the restaurant’s fifth anniversary, begins in July.)

This westside mainstay is always in flux and endlessly satisfying. Dishes, courtesy of executive chef Andy Doubrava, are influenced by the nearby Santa Monica farmer’s market, and a perpetual neighborhood vibe serves as the backdrop. Come hungry and come often; you never know what Rustic Canyon will have in store for you.

At Shibumi, a ceremonial omakase, and magnificent a la carte menu, await. Opt for salmon trout smoked in cherry bark and pork feet in ramen broth or spring for chef David Schlosser’s selections. Either way, each of the seasonal preparations is served on handmade ceramics, and the beverage selection does not disappoint.

Shunji Nakao honed his chops under Nobu Matsuhisa before breaking out on his own, eventually opening his eponymous restaurant to the excitement of sushi enthusiasts near and far. Those who know his craft understand his obsession with umami and his exacting attention to detail. Let him lead the way, and call for a sake sommelier.

Don’t let the name fool you; Taco María is not your typical taco spot. In fact, Angelenos travel to this elegant Costa Mesa eatery for chef Carlos Salgado’s irresistible creations. Seasonal whims mean his offering regularly shifts, but expect Jidori chicken, ancho-almond mole, and queso fresco; local sturgeon with charred scallion aioli, cabbage, and kumquats; and shiitake mushroom chorizo with crispy potatoes and queso fundido—atop handmade heirloom corn tortillas.

Chef Ludo Lefebvre boasts craveable restaurant concepts all over the city, and yet Trois Mec remains his crown jewel. Operated in conjunction with Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, it’s a former pizza parlor in a strip mall where four- and six-course menus of inventive, globally-inspired cuisine surprise and delight. This is a special kind of fine dining: unpretentious, jovial, and oh-so-delicious.