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Welcome to Taste Matters, a recurring Resy column by Mahira Rivers, a writer, critic, and former anonymous Michelin Guide inspector. In this column, she tackles the questions that help define restaurants, and taste, today: Who sets the standards for deliciousness in a quickly changing world? How has the universe of great dining expanded? And what do diners expect in an era of ever-diversified taste?
Header illustration by Jeannie Phan
I remember when Anthony Bourdain first set out to bring a Singapore-style hawker center to New York City. It was…
We’re proud to debut Resy’s first columnist, Mahira Rivers, and her column, Taste Matters. Rivers is a writer, critic, and…
I was fishing for vegetables in the sambar one night at Semma, a new Southern Indian restaurant in the West…
When I was working as a restaurant critic, I learned how to read a menu. By that, I mean coming…
Every restaurant is built by and for a community. And because every community is unique, there isn’t one way to grow as a restaurant.— Mahira Rivers, “Does Being a Classic Restaurant Mean You Can Never Change?”
Outside 85 Tenth Avenue in Manhattan’s Chelsea neighborhood, the black carpet stitched with bold block lettering is gone, ripped from…
The white gazpacho on the menu at The Musket Room in New York is more than a good dish, it’s…
There never has been a better time to eat Chinese food in New York City. From pleated Cantonese dumplings to…
When El Parador Café opened in 1959, it was one of just a handful of Mexican restaurants in New York…
At my local diner, a block from my apartment in Manhattan, I can order a two-egg scramble with a pile…
At The Migrant Kitchen in Brooklyn’s Dumbo, the lamb torta is filled with sumac and Aleppo-spiced lamb, black beans, and…
