Sargent From the Lucian Team Is a Portrait of Melded Arts

1. The concept all comes down to art.

For Barringer, it all starts with art. She studied its history in college, and carried that passion into her early career, working in the nonprofit sector of the arts and leading her to the service industry to supplement her income. “I fell in love with the wine part, pivoted, and worked in distribution. But I really missed the creative side of things,” she says, from the seasonal dynamism of the restaurant industry to the raw emotion of art. “My way of bridging the two worlds was books, so I opened a bookstore called Cover in West Atlanta, emphasizing books on art design, food, and wine.”

While Cover has since closed, this trio of passions led her to partner with Smelt, already a wine and hospitality veteran with experience that included opening Holeman & Finch, Restaurant Eugene, and serving as wine director at Cakes & Ale. With the added elements of her retail experience and Smelt’s former colleague, executive chef Jason Paolini, on board to helm the kitchen, the wine bar-bookstore-restaurant concept was born.

Sargent follows that same vein, but like all fine art, will ultimately be its own original masterpiece with the help of the women-owned design firm, Digs.

2. The visual direction — and name — was inspired by a 19th century portrait painter.

“Like Lucian, Sargent is named for a visual artist that we love — John Singer Sargent,” Barringer says of the renowned portrait painter. “I’ve always been drawn to his work – the technique, textures, colors, his treatment of nature and flowers. We’re bringing texture everywhere you look. Beautiful plaster walls from Super Delicious Walls, which adds artistic reference as well as a sense that the place has existed for a long time, despite being a brand-new building, and three custom murals by Tommy Taylor that we designed together.”

Even the menu will be inspired by Sargent’s personal history. Barringer says, “He was American by birth and spent most of his life in Europe. He was heavily influenced by French culture, which leans into our approach to cuisine at Sargent:” American-rooted with French finesse.

And former patrons from Cover will be delighted to recognize the bookstore’s 20-foot-long table. It features historic conveyor belt technology used for rolling barrels of beer produced in an abbey in Belgium. Barringer shares, “It’s my big baby and an absolute beast to move, so I’m hoping this is its last resting place.”

3. The menu embellishes on American favorites with French technique and flair.

No matter how many wonderful details are present in any one work of art, every great piece has one special something that anchors it. For Sargent, it’s a club sandwich, but done with chicken like it reportedly was when it was first invented in the late 19th century — chicken and lettuce under bacon, Barringer explains. “That was the starting point … a bit of a throwback, a classic everyone loves, and has strong opinions on.”

Paolini’s goal is to create the platonic ideal of it: Warm poached chicken brined overnight with a sliced boiled egg and lemon pepper-dressed gem lettuce on the bottom half and up top, Brunson bacon, sliced local tomatoes, more lettuce, tucked into three slices of Bea’s White Bread from The General Muir. Housemade frites and easy sipping “daytime wines,” as Barringer calls them, will be perfect accompaniments, while warm double chocolate cookies and a sorbet trio might just be the little treat needed to finish out the day.

This direction guided the rest of the menu, which during the day, will feature pastries, soups, salads, and “dishes more conducive for everyday dining; nothing overly rich or heavy,” she promises — a consideration for the office workers on the floors above.

“We’ll pay attention to the seasons and make adjustments, but we want to create instantly recognizable and craveable dishes that will be reliably available,” she says. For this reason, evening mains will include roast chicken, crab cakes, and other comfort classics. However, the star of every night is predicted to be the prime rib.

“It’s a whole ribeye massaged with Dijon, horseradish, salt, mixed peppercorns, lots of thyme and rosemary, slow-roasted daily for four hours,” Paolini says. “We’ll serve it sliced with Bordelaise, Bearnaise, horseradish, pommes puree, and creamed spinach.”

Leaning even more Continental, the charred leeks vinaigrette is another dish the team is excited about, served with a fresh green Italian sauce and toasted hazelnuts and designed to pair with wine, which remains “at the heart of what we do,” Barringer adds.

4. Everything beloved about Lucian will be carried through on a bigger and bolder scale.

“Attention to detail is what we want to carry throughout, so everything from menu design to spatial design, there will be a lot of moments where we hope guests will recognize and go, ‘Oh, this must be the same people who did Lucian!’” Barringer says.

While the books will be a dead giveaway, so will be retaining Lucian’s focus on small productions, despite the far greater volume in a 6,000-square-foot space that holds quadruple the occupancy.

With the beverage program overseen by Smelt, the wine selection will reflect a global approach with an emphasis on small-batch producers. This also follows the selection of distilleries providing spirits for the cocktail menu, which will veer on the “refreshing” side of the spectrum during its summer opening.

“We’ll have an expanded spirits selection and non-alcoholic drinks, and cocktails will be in-house takes on classics,” she shares.

5. Its central location is prime for fostering community.

Other features that will carry over on a greater scale are the events they love to host. Sargent’s central location has them primed to be able to foster community and with a patio, full bar, two distinct dining, rooms, and a private dining room for parties of up to 18, room to spare.

The restaurateurs are keeping each of these sections “intentionally segmented.” Not only will this allow them the space to host diners and parties simultaneously, from book-signings and magazine-related events private events and wine dinners, but it will help them better serve the full range of the demographics of the neighborhood.

With casual diners coming off the BeltLine with their warmly welcomed dogs, guests from nearby hotels visiting, and friends and couples looking for a nice night out, this segmentation allows them to be, as Barringer explains, “a place that you can come for something as everyday as your lunch break to the big moments in life and everything in between.”

Sargent is open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Sunday and is expected to launch Monday service in the fall.

Su-Jit Lin is a rehabilitated New Yorker, former New Orleanian, and current Atlantan, in addition to being a travel, food, and lifestyle writer. She has contributed to EatingWell, HuffPost, Epicurious, The Takeout, Eater, The Kitchn, VinePair, Thrillist, Food & Wine, Serious Eats, Southern Living, and more. Follow her on Instagram. Follow Resy, too.